Mopar1973Man

I'll pick mine up in person. Might be week till I get there. @dieselautopower

I know I shouldn't say this... I made it from New Meadows ID to Bullhead Ciy AZ. 900 mile trip. I look at it this way I used to drive mom 1,000 miles a week. 250k miles in 4 years. I've only been towed two times. Most all problem I could drive home to fix. This trip with AZ heat im going to build a trans heat shield to keep trans Temps down while I tow my RV home. My only problem is trans running hot side. I've got tools but every failure I've had no tools could fix. Mainshaft failed in my NV4500 losing 3rd and 4th. Limited to 1st, 2nd, and 5th. 5th gear disappeared at 80 MPH. Limited to 4th. VP44 failed at 247k miles then was stuck in full advance. Limited to 20 MPH. Air Dog 150 dies and locked up after 250k miles and 13 years. Towed. No part stores carry Air Dog pumps.

Might just find custom +50 HP even cheaper.

Normal. Mine does it all the time. Lopes about 100 to 200 RPM till stopped then it idles nearly exact at 800 RPM. (+/- 2 to 3 RPM) Only suggestion to lighten is check valve lash. I'm running stock SO VP44, and 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar. Since I'm in Arizona and its 105 to 108F it lopes pretty good here. Get back to cooler country it stops.

I will never suggest a p-pump a truck. The only reason is to race the truck. Of all the people here that p-pumped end up parking that truck and buying another vehicle because it broke down all the time. One member I asked to meet me and he was to scared to drive it because of failure rate was high. Like on my truck ill lose cruise control which I use a lot.

Yeah it would be below the VP44. My bad.

Even my Quad shows I can reach 69 PSI of boost but actually I only reach 47 PSI. I don't use the display or mobile device reading. I used my ISSPro EV2 gauges which are dead on.

There is a member that had the tone wheel fall off the crank.

P0237 or P0238 codes mist likely bad map sensor. If you have a Quadzilla you could watch boost signal compared to actual boost.

Double check the AC noise too. This can do this on all 98.5 to 2002. Mine did before doing the W-T ground mod.

Ok thats my 5 cents I know. Might be diode issues? Consider anything that might increase current draw through the breaker. Bad batteries, bad diodes, etc.

If you up north in snow country I suggest AirDog over FASS less freeze up issues. FASS systems tend to freeze quicker because typically filter are hanging in the blowing cold and typically in the damage path of the front tires slinging snow.

Grid heater sticking on? Just fixed this for my landlord his truck would pop the 150A breaker.

No. I'm also using 13" clutch but a dual disc. Valair Dual Disc Organic.

I did a short test run with the RV hitched up. OMG! Way better view of the rear of the trailer. Yeah it highly pissed me off when the driver side wiring got up under the bracket and crimp it right in half. I had only a 3/4 stub out of the mirror. I did managed to solder and shrink tube the wiring again. Power mirror get a work out and don't quite go high enough but barely. Moose mode you need all it got to the upper outside edge. Normal mode you need all the up and out again.

Here you go... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077SRNKLS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Oh I'm sorry... I've got my mirrors down.

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Power Adjust and heated. No puddle light and no turn signals for $140. Also made a huge error during install. I caught the wires between the door and the mirror on the driver side and crush them in half. Yup I had to repair my brand new mirror on the driver side. I'll write up something...

My next upgrade for the truck before I leave for travelling with the RV. I got my set of Moose Horns for the truck.

Even living up here in Idaho I've never used PowerService. I only just make sure to run the truck enough to get fresh winterized fuel on board. Now it will not gell up, all the way down to minus temps. Be aware Power Service does not have any lubricants this can be seen by leaving a small sample of PS in a small container that is open. In a few days it will evaporate and leave a gummy residue behind. You can leave 2 cycle exposed forever its still oil. If I was to shut down for this next winter I would load up with winterized diesel and dump a shot of Snowmobile Oil in the tank. This will drop the freeze point down further being most snowmobile oil is -50*F or more. Most winterized diesel is rated to -20*F or so. 2 Cycle oil will keep a oily film on all fuel system parts and makes first startup better. Most all over the fuel additives are just an alcohol base for cetane boosters which will evaporate in time and be lost at starup. Since most all fuel additives that I've studied do not contain any oil or lubricants. Just allow the product to stand in the open air and what is remaining is the oils if any are left... Lube oils will never evaporate, other than that we would be adding oil very often.

The only way they could rust is add water to the tire or leave it parked for long time. A rolling rock will gather no moss.

What I might do with my new Hankook ATm's... I've got two containers full of BB's for an air rifle. I'm going to measure out 4 ounces (using balance beads weight measurements) then dump that amount in each tire and inflate again. The problem I see is the those balance disc cant allow for that wide tire. So the bead balance at a center line of the rotor. This means if needs more weight on the inside bead it can't give it. Where if the balance material is in the tire it can hunt to the exact spot the weight is needed. It was a member name @Cowboy that did the study work on using normal BB's in a tire. Worked great for larger tire or tires with balance problems. I think his article is in the 12V section.

Might put a dash of dielectric grease in all connectors. Work the plug at least 3 times before moving on. This works the grease down into the pins and seals them from moisture and dampness.