Mopar1973Man

I would start doing oil testing from 10k and keep testing every 5k miles to see where the oil ends life for you. I'll give this that @dorkweed ran Walmart SuperTech Universal Diesel Oil 15w-40 and ran 87k miles on a single oil change only changing the bypass oil filter (MotorGuard) and the main oil filter every 7k miles. Then sampled the oil, topped off with replacement oil and sent of a sample for testing. He did this test on his CR truck 3rd Gen. Did it all on Blackstone labs testing.

Maybe... The problem would be having to send both off ot place like @Auto Computer Specialist to verify the softwares. They would test them both and tell you what is needed to repair them properly. Ummm... 2001 Dodge doesn't have crank and cam sensors. Only Cam sensor. This means the engine has been swapped. Unknown if the engine and ECM and PCM are all matched.

Mouser should have these kinds of connectors. https://www.mouser.com/

Might be either... Don't know till I get error codes back from you. Module Master in Moscow, ID do rebuild the clusters for good price. Just dumb things to ask. Did you check the cam sensor? Cam sensor wiring? Is the right ECM installed for your model year of truck? Some replace ECM willy nilly and end up having the wrong software possibly.

350k miles... #4 had a piece of turbo compressor get into the cylinder hence the rub mark.

Good enough reason... You might give some of our vendors a call like DAP.

Just the upper ends of the stock MAP sensor are not accurate. Above about 25 PSI. Quadzilla can report weird high values like my truck at 67 PSI recorded in the logs (either with 2001 MAP sensor or the 2002 MAP sensor) which I know I max out at 47 PSI typically (ISSPro gauge). EGT's now are close to each other but can very at times. Both are right next to each other in the 4,5,6 runner. I'm the late series MAP where like Nick's truck was early MAP and typically more accurate. Which the Quadzilla just caps the actual value to the ECM to like 18 PSI. I'm not using the fuel pressure of the Quad. ISSPro EV2. Being my a-pillar gauges are more visible over my Quad display which might no even used at the time. Trans temp of the Quadzilla I'm using for Engine Oil temp out of the oil cooler. That sensor seems to be just about dead on when check with IR temp gun.

Quadzilla comes with gauges... I prefer the external gauges... Stand alone and do not use the stock sensors. I went with ISSPro EV2 because they are programmable and you can set the wwarning lamps to come on at certain values. Like my EGT's set for >1,200, Boost is set for >45 PSI, Fuel pressure is set for <13 PSI, Trans temp is set for >225F. Then you can calibrate the brightness of the gauges to match your dash, then also set the needle reaction speed. Just plug in and flash...

Something Edge does not have... Can you adjust timing to suit your injectors? Can you adjust the fuel map to gain the most performance without smoke and cut below stock fuel which Edge Products cant do... Around town I typically run headless Quadzilla. In other words I do not load up the app at all. This is great security measure that most don't catch on to. Without a display hanging on the dash everyone assumes the truck is stock and worthless. Another trick...

Not true. If the bridge cable on the radiator is under 0.2 Volts under load which mine is less than this last I check. This is the voltage drop between batteries at full load of the starter (700 amps or or more). Now the rest of the system operates on far less current flow including the grid heaters. (190 Amps). The battery temperature will be the same if the batteries are both charging at the same rate as long and the bridge cable between is less than 0.2 volts during starter operation. Now like on my landlords truck 2000 Dodge 3500 hes got really crappy cables and measured a drop of 10 volts between so the passenger battery was way up in the high 15 volts and the driver side was barely 11.2 volts. Grid heater would suck the driver side battery out and the passenger side was 15 volts still with no drop. This is a bad bridge cable between the two battery. Now your battery temperatures would be skewed. He's needing that cable replaced. I clean the ends and got it down to about 0.5 volts between the batteries. Cable is rotten internally.

They are right... When I did my head stud you have to lay the head on the block and then install the studs which I'm running ARP 425 studs. Then there is one long exhaust side stud might not fit. Take a 2x6 and jack up the cab at the cowl slowly. You can lift almost a full 1/2 inch and the stud will fall into its hole no problem. No need to drill the cowl or cutting holes or beat dents in the body work. I went with the HX35/40 (60/60/12) for two reason the price was good (CSM gave me the turbo) then rear of the turbo would except my Jacobs Exhaust brake. I got a upgrade somewhat but kept my 1,100 dollar exhaust brake. Injectors I've played from stock to RV275's, +50HP, +75HP, and now 150HP. (current) Tuners I've played with Smarty, Edge Products (Juice and Edge), now Quadzilla (best option).

Hmmm... What kind of EGT's to do you seen towing your RV? You might look at tuning a bit more for seperate tune for RV towing if you don't already. Might talk to @AH64ID he's our CR engine guru.

All I will say on this is watch the long haul folks. Like Ol' @cajflynn which cleared 1.3 million miles on a 5.9L 2001 Dodge with a 53 block towing heavy daily. Chevron Delo 15w-40 and fleetguard filters every 20k miles. This is not a typo... That truck is very well documented on the site. There is several long haul driver that are members here and none of the long haul guys use synthetics. Like myself I ran petroleum and after 350k miles when I did a head gasket the cylinder are very clean and no issues. I'm currently at 415k miles and doing 10k mile oil changes. Chevron Delo 15w-40 or Napa 15w-40 (Valvoline) and a NAPA filters. Still going strong. I was up to 1,000 to 1,500 mile a week. Lot of long haul trips and bit cold (below 0) to frying hot (100 to 120*). Even my trip to Mohave Valley, AZ at 118*F towing my RV. No issues engine oil temps where very controlled and never above 190*F. Typically 170 to 190*F. To this day I've not used synthetics on my truck for the engine. The only thing I still buy synthetics for is my transmission. (Mobil 50 SAE GL-4). Other than that I've used petroleum in everything else. Power steering still running my OEM power steering pump, OEM gears and axles, etc.There is no gains in life span with synthetics being I'm doing the same on Petroleum. 415,xxx miles and no problems. As some might bring up I broke my transmission. The first was pure power break of the mainshaft. The second time I took all the teeth off the 5th gear. Then a few bad sets of syncros (brass) barely lasted 7 to 12k miles (couple weeks and defective). Do keep in mind I'm roughly 500 HP for engine power now. 7 x 0.010 injectors and HX35/40 Hybrid turbo.

Ummm... I'm already past that... I'm pretty sure. Still bright and going strong...

I've played with several Edge Juice and Edge Comp systems. All I can say is that they work with stock fuel systems fine. If your wanting to upgrade to bigger injectors past +50 HP it becomes a smoke bomb very had to control the smoke. When I upgraded to +50HP injectors I had to drive with a serious light foot to prevent smoking. This was the end of my Edge Comp days ands was replaced with Quadzilla and then the bigger injectors started getting used. Quadzilla is very clean even all the way up at 150 HP injectors. I've ran +50 HP, +75 HP +150 HP injectors on thew Quadzilla. No problems and easy to tune it clean and powerful. Like currently I know the max EDge Comp will give is close to 21* but I need 24* for cruise timing art 2K RPMs. This makes the bast MPG for my setup currently. This is where the Edge Product come short is the fact you can't adjust timing at all. The fuel map need to altered to put the fuel in the need position of the map but can't. Hence why Quadzilla can produce clean power and Edge products are very smokey and dirty tuners for large injectors.

Not required for stock setups. I'm completed the W-T ground wire mod. I'm still very stable at 11 to 13mv AC. The extra cable isn't going to make a difference if you don't run the extra double to the starter. W-T did a lot of extras because of noise issues on ham radio. Plus his ham radio drew quite a bit of current. This is why the double was used for his purpose. For us that DO NOT have a ham radio and just driving a truck you can still get away with the stock cables which I'm still running my stock battery cables. Now if you have a winch on the front bumper now I would do the dual cables battery to battery because of the draw to the winch.

I'm going to say more electronic way it comes and goes randomly. The only thing I would figure is fuel related is huge air bubbles.

Not required... just optional. Even my truck without that still 11 to 13mV AC.

I'm close with 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar and HX35/40 (60/60/12) turbo and bit of Quadzilla tuning. Easy 20 to 21 MPG.

Just in the two years of ownership on my Morimotos HIDs I drove hours with my lights on driving back and forth to Ontario. Im close to 3,000 hours burn time roughly figuring. Typically run them when traveling or in the city. Then include the many times I've left my lights on too. Come out later to find them on. Thank Gawd the LEDs and HIDs don't draw much.

Might be on a relay socket. I've seen a few this way. Then I've seen some that are just fully electronic control.

Rare to happen any more that was an early Revision number. There hasn't been failures like that since early 2000's. Just like torn diaphragm that can't happen because new pumps don't have that rubber but steel disk now.

Might look up in the air intake there typically is the electronic controls for the A/C to thermostat controls.

Deletes like that are no longer needed.

Nice...