Mopar1973Man

Gearing, my man, gearing... I'm not running oversized tires but 245's stock size. This compared to 265's is going to drop me from 3.55 to 3.69. This translates to easier launching heavy loads. cooler EGT's, and less fuel used to keep rolling. Like my other post it reduces the engine load (applied fuel). Lower the engine load less fuel, means less heat!. I've ran my HX35W for quite a long time hauling with both Edge Comp and Quadzilla now. Like the last 3 years I've ran the HX35/40 hybrid. Yes. You can pull fuel below rat as well. Any fuel number below 100% is going to cut that much off. ECM-> requesting 75% fuel (3,071) -> Quadzilla 90% (2,763) -> 67% fuel given. The numbers are the fuel command numbers Quadzilla feeds to the VP44. It a scale of 0 to 4,095. Or engine load 0 to 100%.

Engine load is much lower than most. Typically empty truck is about 15 to 17% at 65 MPH. Even at 80 MPH at 2,500 RPM still only 20% to 22% engine load. Gear ratio is my good friend. Net gain is less fuel spent to keep rolling. Still doing long haul back and forth handling thing like medical appointments in Boise, picking up parts, getting Eileen's storage brought home, etc. Being 500 RPM lower would kill my city MPG performance because launch takes a lot of fuel from light to light. Give you an idea I'm in 4th gear 1:1 direct by 25 to 30 MPH. This would be your 3rd gear for that 47RE.

Check for vacuum leaks. Vacuum pump will pump excessive air in the crankcase which will push oil out the breather. MAP sensor is junk. The VP44 is still usable but no longer can adjust timing. Hence why the blue smoke. Then it could cause starting issues because timing is sticking and improper timing can make it hard starting too. Remember fuel prime issue typically do NOT leak outwards. They tend to constantly suck air in. What you have to do with a tank that is like a 1/4 to 1/2 then get the truck running so the fuel system is completely primed. Then shut down and have a person pressurize the fuel tank then a second person to crawl around now looking for leaks. The air pressure should help and push fuel out the leak. Weird ones that just hard to catch banjo on the back of the head, crossover tube o-rings, return tee at the rear of the head. Even a shop vacuum in blow mode works pretty good.

Just do it. I've done plenty of heavy hauls with my truck from firewood, tractors, backhoes, hay, etc. I plan on being hitched up to my RV in the next week. I typically cross the scale with the RV somewhere at 17,000 GCW pounds loaded. The hay haul was about 18,000 just the trailer. Quadzilla did really good for the early beta testing days.

I can say when your doing long haul like I was even just shaving off 1 to 2 cents per mile made a huge saving in fuel when you figured 1.000 miles a week. That roughly 10 to 20 dollars per week or 40 to 80 dollar a month off the fuel bill. Currently I'm right at 16 cents a mile for my truck. Cool doesn't even enter my brain at all. Personally, I don't care if it looks cool, for my truck. When you been on a tight budget and still am you look for every way to keep funds in your wallet than pouring them in a fuel tank, just because it looks cool. I looked at the ratio it produces and the RPM's and which the cruise state for 65 MPH lands since that is common speed for my state. Then figure land, terrain, etc. Lower gearing reduces engine load (another savings). Still to this day I'm still making a circle track to Boise and back for medical appointments, picking parts, and going just food shopping.

Size of the turbo parts... Compressor wheel in mm / Turbine wheel in mm / Exhaust housing in cm2 Stock HX35 is 54mm / 60mm / 12cm2 or for short 54/60/12

Being a bad cell is a permanent short. This short continues to bleed amperage, turning into heat in the battery or batteries if both have issues then the constant load will increase on the alternator load only to create heat in a bad battery. Bigger alternator will not fix this problem but remove the parasitic load of the bad cells and the heat and alternator problem will go away.

True. Stock turbo (54/60/12) and 150 HP injectors can be made to run with the Quadzilla. I've done it. Then upgraded to the Hybrid (60/60/12) which mildly reduced EGT's and gave a bit more power. I was still towing my 8,000 pound 31 foot RV on the stock turbo.

Yup, you need your vacuum pump on the engine twist to make vacuum to pull the doors open and closed. Yup, defaults to defroster...

She is going home today... The doctor are telling us her pancreas has just burned out and quit. I'm not going to just give up yet. She will be making appointment with GI doctor in Boise and dig deeper into this. In the meantime I've got a grand loop to make today. Heading down US95 pick up Mom (ashes & death certificate), CBASS (salvage yard), Staples (get my laptop fixed), All parts broker (salvage yard), Durobilt (alternators and starters to rebuild), then Weller truck (my transmission), then back up Idaho 55 to pick up @Wet Vette from the hospital then home. about 360 mile trip today. Ugh!

Alternator is shot, diodes shorted out. You'll need to pull the alternator and test it and replaced. Then you'll need to replace the fuse. Done properly you should do the W-T ground wire mod and the PCM protection fuse. Like mine when it failed it wiped out my PCM and the alternator was about 400*F when it failed. Cost me an alternator and $800 PCM replacement.

Remember it take 2 inch of tire size increase to make 1 inch of lift at the axles. Just show you size up and size down... Just with 285's vs 265's (stock) you'll change the final ratio to 3.42:1 (added drag) then only gain 0.6 inches of axle lift (added little frontal area and drag) Then your adding almost an extra 10 pounds of rotational mass per tire in steel belt (added drag). Then since the wider face and most over sized tire are aggressive tread you just added more rolling resistance (added drag). Just 245's (stock) vs 265's (stock) you'll change the final ratio to 3.69:1 (reduced drag) then only lose 0.55 inches of axle lift (reducing little frontal area and drag) Then your almost reduce about 10 pounds of rotational mass per tire in steel belt (reduced drag). Then since the narrower face and most stock tires come in A/T or road tread you just reduced rolling resistance (reduced drag). I've ran 215's and 235's on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 no issues. The 215's gained me roughly 2 MPG vs 235's I took off. Reduced the final ratio to 3.70:1 gain MPG even on a little 5.9L V8 gasser. Then I've ran 265's, then 235's on my 2002 Cummins for many years. Then switch to 245's gain MPG even at 80 MPH which produced 21 MPG twisting 2,500 RPM's. Reduced the final ratio 3.69:1. Both truck are 3.55 axles. Little trick... 235/85 R16 and 265/75 R16 are the same height. 31.7" vs. 31.6". 215/85 R16 and 245/75 R16 are the same height. 30.5" vs 30.4". Another tip. It takes 2 inches of tire size to to change 1 inch of axle height. Always laughed about people saying they need oversize tires for axle clearance, but when you compare axle heights not that big of difference.

Depends on the state and local laws. Like here around home I'm fine with black smoke. Local law enforcement isn't going to pull you over for a smoke like here in Adams County or Idaho County. Now same state and just go into Boise now that a different story this can get you pulled over pretty quickly. Ada Country and Canyon County both have smog regulations and do enforce them. Being most of my travel is highway speed and passing on two lane roads I have to consider WOT as a level of smoke too. Smoke amount depends on the injectors. Like my RV275's with out the Edge Comp could be a bit smokey at times. +50 HP injectors from Vulcan Performance was popped to 305 bar and were very smokey without the Edge Comp. +75 HP on the Quadzilla of course the Quadzilla tunes that out good, stock ECM tune was very smokey again popped at 305 bar. Now my 150 HP injectors popped at 320 bar are cleaner than my +75 HP injectors. Bigger nozzles, but higher pop pressure really does clean it up a bunch.

Yup. Funny part is jacked up trucks are typically owned by young pups. The older mature men tend not to jack them high in the air. Local rancher in my area all drive with stock height and stock tires and wheels. These young pup are the first to my door asking me to fix a host of front end issue. Just ditch the lift and tires and the problem goes away. Yup. I've got a few that did this and much happier now. Then there is the other half that kept the lift kit and wheels and spent huge money correcting the front end to hold up. As long as your pockets are deep and you do it right it will hold up great. Most though just toss tires on with a leveling kit expecting it to be a cheap upgrade. NOT!!!! Absolutely.

Good choice for injector too. Works with all stock stuff pretty good except needs to tuner to control smoke. DAP, Industrial Injection, DFI are all good. Might call a local diesel shop for there opinion too.

She is still in the hospital in McCall. The doctor is planning to scope her stomach for any problems at noon today. I'm doing my own research on her stomach problems and using any of the info I have to help figure this out. She is doing better pain is way down and she is getting hungry. Hopefully soon they will discharge her so I can get her to Boise to the GI doctor to look deeper. Like I had sat down with @Taz and his girlfriend last night for dinner. It possibly diverticulitis as a problem. Katie was telling me her story of her intestinal infection which was classified as diverticulitis being she had a c-section birth. The doctors managed to kink part of her colon and create infection later on. She ended up losing 9 inch of bowel. Katie is now doing very well after her surgery in Jan. So... I've past this info along to Eileen this morning to have her ask the doctor about white blood cell count, if they can see any intestinal infection possibly. Just like we all do here share info so we learn from each other. Any info that you guys and gals can provide would help.

Back in my days of the Edge Comp I use to get 23 to 24 MPG as long as you did 55 MPH as a top speed. This is because the timing will drop sharply after 20% engine load. Edge products basically just add timing on top of the ECM software. Quadzilla doesn't use the ECM timing table at all. Quadzilla is completely standalone timing while moving under load. As long as you can tune to the peak for the drive style it should improve the MPG. This is all based on how much drag and road speeds your requesting. If your conservative in speeds you can typically push an extra 1 MPG more.

Quadzilla and 7 x 0.010 is close to 500 HP to the ground.

ECM, PCM and VP44 are ground through the passenger side battery terminal. If you do the W-T ground wire mod then the ground will be on the gear case next to the VP44. MAP sensor has zero to do with idle state. Need error codes there could be a... AC noise issue from the alternator flooding the ground with noise. Could be a damaged VP44 and/or ECM being the idle software is damaged in the ECM or the VP44 is not listening correctly.

No turbo needed for RV275 or +50 HP. No exhaust needed either. I ran 3" exhaust for over 275k miles. No EGTs issues for daily driver. +50 HP injectors last I checked at DAP are cheaper than RV275's. When boost exceeds 45 PSI. You'll need at least a 7 x 0.010 injectors. Even back with the +75 HP injectors barely made 40 PSI of boost where the 7 x 0.010 injectors are 47 to 48 PSI of boost roughly. Stock HX35 turbo is good for at least 35 PSI of boost.

Ibmobile is right.

Eileen is back at McCall, ID St. Lukes hospital. Her chest pain, vomiting, etc. returned. I rushed her to the hospital at about 2pm yesterday. I left this morning and went back up to get more information about what is going on. Still fighting to control the pain and control her blood sugar. I don't have much info right now. I waited nearly 4 hours for the doctor to get off the phone so I could find out more. I'm currently fielding all the phone calls for Eileen and I've got family members wanting to know what is going on. I came home to feed the wood stove and get a meal in me. Last meal for me was at 4pm yesterday, now eating at 2pm my breakfast. With my past haunting me with Mom's passing and the loneliness and the excessive quiet is really hard to keep my focus. (time lapse) I had a fire call and just got home.

245s and 265s were stock sizes. If you want larger tires you need 4.10 gears.

Not possible... all these people do not have a corrected odometer to track distance accurately. Everyone I told to use a GPS to track distance told me the MPG was much worse. Cummins engine isn't designed for 35s with 3.55 gears. When working with tires you need to aim for 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground after calculating tires. At 3.69:1 to the ground at 80 MPH I'm twisting 2,500 RPMs and hit 20 MPG everytime. Even a few times hit 21 MPG. Corrected odometer exactly on the money with GPS. I made my gains in dropping 31 inch tires and switching to 30 inch 245/75 R16.

RPM too low and timing too high. Cruise at 65 MPH needs to be closer to 2,000 RPM. Then your timing should be close to 18 to 19 degrees at 2,000 RPM's not at 1650 RPM. Should be much lower. Again this is tire issue impacting you. The problem with our truck between the injection pump to pump the line up, inject fuel, cetane ratings, pop pressure of the injector, nozzle size, etc. All these variables will change what timing you use. Then in your case 35 inch tires that now change your final ratio to 3.2x:1 roughly compared to some like myself with 3.69:1 ratio to the ground. Tires and gearing will impact you timing figures because of the required retard to launch then cruising RPM is too low.