Mopar1973Man

Auto Computer Specialist in Florida. Handle many of forum members including myself.

P0230 code just means either the lift pump is drawing too much amps or too little because its locked or open circuit.

Then there is timing and fuel maps. The stock ECM tuning is designed around stock 235 HP (245 HP HO) injectors and its duration. Now with larger injectors the duration is shorten and then depending on pop pressure it can be late, like myself I'm running 320 bar pop pressure so I'm tad late in timing. Then looking at the Quad stock timing drop out really quick and could be rather low with engine loads over 20%. Then there is a another factor is tuning to your current fuel. Up here it can be above 50 cetane most of the winter and need to retard timing a bit. Now summer fuel is hear I been increasing timing and gaining back MPG.

Remember when the fuel lines are purged they create a minimum of 4,500 PSI to fire the injectors. An open line should pulse strongly, not dribble or just drip. I normal crack 1, 3, 4 and the crank till it attempts to start close the lines and crank till it starts. You need charged batteries and good starter RPM's.

So the new one would also have to come from a Quad Cab long Box Cummins. There might be a small difference between gas and diesel length.

Block is the ground for that sensor. So the 5V comes off the ECM the oil pressure sensor is single wire just like back in 1970s when V8 engines had a single wire oil pressure sensor.

Body type will make the difference. Long box, Short box, mega cab or standard?

Just my lil' HX35/40 (60/60/12) turbo I'm twisting 47 to 49 PSI of boost maxed out with a performance tune. Now my economy tune and level 3 tops out at barely 35 PSI. Shallow fuel map.

Don't do it. Hooking to the ignition makes the pump run even after an accident. Better to hook to the ECM with protection fuse and relay at least when the engine stops the ECM will shut down the pump.

Like for me I had my stock HX35W eat a hose clamp I sent it out through DAP to Industrial Injection for rebuild. It cost me $800 dollars for replacing a compressor wheel and the rebalance. They reused the turbine and the housings. Still in all I think I got hosed on that deal and could of upgraded for less.

Need a 6 sided 1 1/16 socket. I got the very same sensor and no issues as long as you have that 6 sided socket.

Could be a speed output sensor. I had my 1996 Dodge dropping to 1st gear and 2nd gear without warning and stick in those gears for long period. No error code at all. What the speed sensor is doing is telling the governor to dump the pressure. Hence it down shifts. If the output speed sensor sees low speeds it will dump the pressure and shift down even though the truck is still moving 50 MPH.

No. MAP sensor that is error out will prevent any damage because of limp mode. Just really low in power. No fuel is given since it can't see boost. IAT sensor really doesn't do anything. If the IAT is below 80*F the timing jump up another +4* advanced. In limp mode timing is locked and limp mode power. This is why I made the MPG fooler warmer IAT (100 to 140*F) is actually better for efficiency than cold air. Hence why this was made... Plugs into both the IAT and ECT.

Yes sir. Still dropping down into the 20's and 30's at night. I'm still back at home doing odd jobs and keeping going. I'm building a web site for Eileen's Daughter. Then the 2010 Ram 6.7L was in my yard might be sold I got to meet the new owner for a test drive. Then I've been still gutting Mom's house to make it our own place. Chucked out Mom's 36 year old couch. Moving furniture around the house and getting rid of old chairs and excessive stuff. As for going back to work it would be nice but I'm watch the local economy going south and people are running out of money. Lots of people want me to do work but without money its hard to buy parts.

245's here and well over 70k miles on these tires. 245/75 R16 and Hankook ATm.

Biggest fails I see... Cracked fuses. Hacked up wiring, bad relays, bad safety switch or missing, bad start contacts. Safety switch (manual) is under the dash and (auto) is on the transmission. The fuses for the starter I've seen crack and look find but no power to starter solenoid relay. Then I've seen the starter solenoid relay fail and not deliver power to the starter. I've seen starter contact fail pretty common the start pinion gear will pop out but no spin of the starter. All these are super simple to repair and cheap.

Coming to a close for your pump I think the best was closer to 300k miles on a pump.

Man I always hated that open the dash up and find totally packed by mice.

Always though it was foolish for running a 165 GPH pump on 3/8 hose. Adding a high volume pump with low volume plumbing. Return system is left alone. Supply system should be as open as possible for pressure stability. I'm also running an AirDog 4G 165 GPH pump with 1/2 inch lines and it is fairly solid in pressure hanging at 15 to 17 PSI.

First problem is the trailer frame rated for towing doubles? If not it will destroy the RV in a quick order typically ultra lites and light weight trailers are not designed for towing behind them. Safety wise I would look for another option. Not worth the risk of damaging the RV because possibly the frame isn't design for the tugging. Not to mention you'll need a brake controller for the towed vehicle behind the trailer. Personally I would haul the trailer first, then come back and haul the cart on a flat bed.

With my setup I'm at 410k miles. Now the first time I changed the tie rod ends was back at 350k miles. There isn't a real need for 3rd gen parts. The only trick to long life is staying away from oversized tire that add stress to these parts. I've used 235's and 245's sized tires for the life of the truck. To get 350k miles from the steering system is awesome without any braces, modifications, etc.

First off I would get a code reader and read all the error codes in number form. Then get a service manual for your year, make and model of vehicle now look up the error codes. This would be my first step to getting information on what is going on.

Lets put it this way I'm at 410k miles now only fluid I've used in my power steering is Walmart Super Tech and NAPA power steering fluid. I still have my OEM pump. Not to mention never installed a filter but change the power steering fluid every 30k miles. The only work done to my pump is new reservoir seal. That's it. Gear box would of still been in but I traded with Blue Top for a quick ratio. My OEM box was in perfect shape but input seal failed. No filter needed, no special fluids required.

This is why the heater core failed. Coolant was not changed and flushed often enough so the coolant pH now turns corrosive and eats any metals its touching including the heater core. Coolant should not be kept over 5 years or 100k miles. Even at 75k miles you might find the pH already going south. Replacement dashes can be installed while the dash is released from the firewall being I know that @dripley has done it.

Not shabby... Now lets see that Chevy after 300k miles and how its doing.