Mopar1973Man

Kind of like myself the +75 HP DAP VCO (7 x 0.0085) injectors only made about 75k miles and were wore out and popping low. Typically what you'll see is the engine load drops seriously low at about 3% and the idle is excessive high like 850 to 900 RPM's that is pop pressure is TOO LOW. The ECM can't cut fuel morre, so the idle creeps up and the engine load is botttom out because it can't cut fuel. 293 Bar (Bottom limit) <-> 300 to 305 bar (common for aftermarket) <-> 310 bar (stock pop) <-> Greater that 310 bar (MPG and longevity) Like myself I'm popped at 320 bar on my 7 x 0.010 injectors. Touch 22 MPG once in awhile. I'm down to about 7% engine load at idle from the 13% I had originally when I installed so I'm about half life with these injectors. About the first 20k to 30k it stayed close to 11 to 13% but now starting to wear and lose its pop pressure at miles are racked up 1,000 miles per week.

Pretty soon I'll have to create a winter tune. Getting way to easy to break the tires loose.

Not a problem that what we are here for is to help out. Like me work and paying billing...

Emery cloth and work the excessive paint out of the hole. Work slow and even. Then might put a thin film of silicone in the hole as well if your concerned. The re-assemble the gear case again. Place the seal in a different position in the case to relocate for the crank wear.

In any case the hi beam light is hooked up to +12V power. The other side relies on the grounding of the dimmer switch. I've got a feeling its in the modified wiring that is causing the problem.

Yeah once a mode is selected it remains for that key cycle. They other catch is you can start on 6 CYL and then select 3 CYL and it will flip. But no way back to 6 CYL unless you shut down for at least 10 second and re-select a new mode. If you even select 6 CYL it will follow last set mode if its 3 CYL. Normal Idle -> 6 CYL -> 3 CYL (No way back up the tree again - Shutdown required)

DAP sells the cross over o-rings. Typically supply new crossover o-rings with injectors.

Might check with Dorman products might have it.

HE351 (60/60/9) and the HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) are the same but the exhaust housing is smaller. I would love to jump for the 62/68/12 that DAP has but I'm short the funds to buy into that one it will work for my Exhaust brake. He has one turbo that will fit my exhaust brake.

If you select a mode of operation the ECM will continue that operation till the engine is shut down. So its not possible to start on 3 CYL mode and then flip to 6 CYL it will not change operation. You must shut off the engine and wait roughly 10 seconds and now select the new mode of operation then start again.

I was just called into the shop to help the landlord fix his Ford F-150. The Column shift would not consistently release during brake application. No issues with the brake lights or the fuse. All working. It was the solenoid sticking ot failing. After fighting for 2 hours we both agreed to pull the shift lever out and looked at the tip and you can see the wear mark from the lock. Covered the dash and using a cutoff grinder. Cut about 1/4 inch off the very tip. Now install and presto normal functional shift lever without park interlock system. Then using the cutoff grinder and trimmed the cuff off the column plastic so installation is much easier. Total cost. ZERO Total time for project about 1 hour.

Injector o-rings will mix fuel with oil. Now crossover tube o-rings will leak fuel out on the manifold.

One of the members here fave it to me. He tried didn't like it too much. Needed rebuilding bearings were shot.

Limited pedal... Check the alternator for excessive AC noise. It can pollute the tach signal. This could limit power.

True but there is little options for keeping my exhaust brake. My exhaust brake is a requirement for where I drive with mountain grades. Getting about 45 to 47 PSI of boost. Quick to spool typically. Most times spools so fast the tires come loose. Little smoke to just a haze. Normal EGT's at 66 is roughly 550*F and 2,000 RPM. Then at 80 MPH at 2,500*F its barely 650*F. Really good cool EGT's. No issues here. Towing just drop to level 3 and I can't exceed 1,200*F with the RV or any trailer.

Same here. Pretty steady typically.

Majority of time its the installer fault. Like I've installed over 4 clutches in the last month. Every single time I install a clutch I get the transmission to full mate before ever tightening the bolts. I use slide pins for lining up and this makes it perfect. Just done a Chevy/GMC 350 yesterday and it worked out just perfect. Put the pins in the bellhousing slid the transmission right up to the bellhousing in a single motion. If your pulling the transmission in with the bolts you now for sure messing up the installation. Most likely have a misaligned input shaft and forcing it to line up this is bad. Even when I did the clutch and transmission install on my truck on the floor. Same thing line it up and slide it all the way home. by hand BEFORE putting any bolts in the housing. NEVER PULL THE TRANSMISSION IN WITH THE BOLTS! SB Trick by Peter: If the clutch refuses to allow the transmission to seat. Install the slave cylinder. Have a second person to press the pedal down will the other now pushing. The clutch disc will come lose in the flywheel allowing the input shaft to align the disc freely.

Still got a rash of guys out there still dumb as a post and poor tuning rolling coal. I find at least 2 or 3 per trip that roll a huge coal over me just to show off. I just shake my head and think what an idiot. Most of them still listening to the stupid information that Edge Juice is the only tuner. Of course they have added huge injector to a tuner without timing adjustments. Edge Juice happens to be really good at rolling coal just like my old Edge Comp does too. The one that I can talk to I try to educate them and some do and other think I'm nuts that its impossible to have clean horsepower. If its not rolling coal its not working.

Bold is the injection pump. Replacement is required if the codes come back again.

It seems like clutch month for me. Just did a Chevy 350 clutch now im doing it again. This one happens to have a NV4500 transmission. Ill admit way easier on a Dodge or Ram to change a clutch than a Chevy.

Welcome to the family @kpeterson0124v

How good is the control of the boost is the good question?

Give @Blue-Top Steering a call excellent guy to work with. Maybe he'll respond to the tag. The only time you need all the braces is when lift kits are used and oversized tires. Myself I've gone almost 400k miles and never used anything but factory parts. No upgraded steering or anything. I did replace my steering box because of seal failure from rust. I've been using NAPA track bars with good results. Don't need to get sucked into brand names. I ran Rancho's 5100 for over 100k miles good shock. I've got KYB's now and another good shock. Bilsteins typically everyone runs to but not required. No Moog or Spicer joints no longer American made and tend to be of poor quality. My last batch was a set of I think AC Delco ball joints from RockAuto and have over 200k miles on them. OMG! That's a rip off. I would do that job in a half a day. Yeah you got to pull the VP44 out to do it right but its super easy to do. I did full write up on how to change that simple 20 dollar tappet seal. Gear case is a simple job too. Just get a crank seal and tube of grey silicone. Water pump is a 15 minute job. 2 bolts.

Hence why I liked the 3.55 gears and just dropping to 245's which got me the 3.69 ratio final. 20mm narrower than stock but 1 inch shorter.

The gap between the tip and the tank bottom should be the thickness of 1 or 2 quarters coins. Should be measured with a empty tank! Then the end should be cut straight. NO cuts at a slope, slant, or other wise. You may notch the tip but only 1/16" of a inch deep. No more! 300k miles.... Only time I see that is climbing steep grades at low fuel. Launching like 1/4 mile race track them I can pull the fuel to the rear of the tank. Normal driving I can pull down to EMPTY or the 1/8 tank mark no problem.