Mopar1973Man

Either way the MAP sensor accuracy isn't the greatest. Best to opt for a boost gauge than trying to read the MAP sensor.

Mine failed and left me struggling for a fuel station at 3/8 of a tank. New float assembly and back to normal and reading correctly.

APPS sensor most likely wearing out.

Kind of like buying a Cummins thermostat for high dollar wanting quality to find out its a cheap Mr. Gasket or Robertshaw thermostat.

Actually a bad ECT sensor reading low will cause high idle. IAT sensor does noting but jack up timing more hence the high idle switch, but if the software is enabled it should cancel after 170°F the resume normal idle at 800 RPM.

Geez... I get up in the morning its 6 to 15°F in the morning. Might warm up to 30°F. This is basically all minus numbers for our Canada folks.

94 to 98 does not have an ECM. Its a standalone engine. Ill be found similar setup up soon. Shoving a 6BT Cummins in a 47 Chevy panel wagon. Getting the goodies together. Electrically need power for the fuel solenoid and the starter that all.

Module masters in Moscow, Idaho can repair cluster if needed. This isn't the first one I've seen.

No makes it worse. Best off installing a protection fuse on the blue wire. Then send the PCM out for repair. External regulators tend to over or under charge more because there is no battery temp sensor. This depend on where the regulator is mounted. Too cold over charge, too hot under charge.

Roll back to the 94 wiring diagrams that should help.

Dodge stock aluminum wheels don't hold up to weight well. Lost mine due to cracking issues back long time again. All the firewood hauling and rough forestry roads beat them till they cracked.

Don't use any gasket sealant. Gasket is installed dry with no sealant.

I would check throttle linkage when it idling high. See if the APPS is fully resting on the stop pin. Did you attempt to adjust the APPS voltage? If so this can happen need to drop 0.1 to 0.2 below the tag voltage. Bad APPS sensor possibly...

Sorry to hear the damage. Thank you for sharing letting others know of this problem.

Got the switch back LEDs in both trucks. Really nice to run marker lights without the head lights. Makes your truck bit more modern with daytime running lights. There is an article for even 12V 2nd gens.

That should work. The H1 Minis are easy to do. The D2S takes a bit of customizing to make it fit.

Ask @Me78569 he know where to buy the kits.

DAP 7 x 0.010 injectors (@ 320 bar) VCO's I'll let you know how long they go. Lots of idle time, lots of highway time.

Not really. I got a set of Sport Headlights (clear lens) and did the relay mod and wasn't very good. That is what pushed me to sell my sport headlights and move on to the HID's.

This will show you all the stuff on that fuse.

Nope... Started with the switch on the Edge Comp then the Quadzilla for many years and thousands of miles so far.

Here is the wiring diagram...

Now we are back on normal time I can shot some headlight photos again. Wicked seeing a full mile down the road and lighting up 50 foot trees to the top and seeing 50 feet out past the pavement.

@JAG1 need to drive more. Just about 400k miles.