Mopar1973Man

Minus 50*F off that for correct EGT's as shown by my ISSPro. The Quad is +50*F higher.

Should reduce the EGT's some.

Sway bar... Not track bar. Vacuum pump did you install the shaft seal the right way? If you reverse the seal it will leak.

First I got to ask is the rubber all oily and greasy? Is the rubber soft and mushy holding the sway bar? If any of these are true then the bar might slide back and forth no matter how much you torque the fasteners. You might be forced to replace the rubber sway bar holders. At the same time fix the source of the oil leak. Engine oil is great at making rubber stuff mushy over time.

After the Cummins got the cold shoulder and the cold garage for 17 days I'm sure it's going to straighten up and act right. If not the little Red 1/2 ton will steal its glory again.

Even my Bluetop steering box needed a bit of tweak to take up slack in the gearbox brand new. I called Bluetop and asked Ryan about the slack. Even though they test everything out there is no way to load test box like in an actual steering condition so the sector adjustment typically is close but not tight enough for most.

Just so you can have big tires... $1,267 for steering box and hydraulic ram. Wow!

Don't want to sound totally stupid. I know the VAT tax is sort of taxing system for over in the UK. What is it exactly?

Could I ask if you done the W-T ground wire mod?

If you opt for adjusting the box. Keep something in mind there is a fast way to do this adjustment but it a bit tricky too. You can run the set screw all the way to the bottom as tight as you can go. This pushes the output shaft and gear downward into the rack. This makes the gear super tight and can break stuff. Now you have to set some slack back to the gears. Lifting on the pitman and output shaft now loosen the sector adjustment at least 1.5 to 2.0 full turns. Lock it down. The trick is if you don't help the output shaft back up as your turning the screw it will just come to a stop. you might have to use a rubber mallet to help it back up. This method is best when the pitman arm is not attached to the output shaft. The long way is to keep turning a 1/8 to 1/4 turn and checking over and over. This will take a considerable amount of time going back and forth.

Seems like both of us keep making three good steps towards our goals and then get kicked back two steps with another problem that empties the funds out and now leave you hanging. Yeah, we will get there eventually.

Might check again. I've seen the track bar bushing side fail and the bar is banging back and forth inside the bushing. Which would explain this because the bolt might be tight but the rubber bushing tore out and track bar is banging back and forth. That only happened to me once with a cheap Autozone track bar.

You could. Nothing wrong with that... Might want to check. Hate to see you install and have to pull them back out again.

Trust me I know the feeling. I still got to do my injectors yet. After all that I spent on the PCM, alternator, and misc parts I'm having fairly empty Christmas. Might get to the injectors by January or February.

If it budget minded I would just re-pop what you got. If you got funds to burn then change the nozzles up.

Simply put the bottom limit of injectors are 293 bar according to Dodge FSM manual. If they are popped 305 +/- 5 bar which makes the lowest injector 300 bar and just another 7 bar lower you'll be out of specifications again. Why do they do this?

With this being said 5 speed is the best transmission out there. They always said the 6 speed had a beefer input shaft and didn't have the 5th gear nut problem. The funny part is my 5 speed held up just fine it was only the main shaft that failed at the 3rd/4th gear. Now 6 speeds have bushing problems and can't handle power.

Why do all the shops always pop them low? Right out of the FSM. Then within the next little bit of mileage, the pop pressure will fall a bit more after everything settles. It sure does shorten the injectors lifespan before the pressure falls off again.

@Marcus2000monster you might want to follow this.

Alternator and PCM protection What I'm going to describe is a rare event. This is possible with any alternator stock ND or Bosch or even the aftermarket alternators that are bigger amperage output. In a nutshell, at any point, the blue field lead happens to short to ground the entire short is routed back through the PCM. Since the PCM is protected by a shared fuse of 20 amps this means the circuit board fails during these events. There have been two cases of this which is @pepsi71ocean and myself with the same failure. The only difference is mine failed so badly that it burned a hole through the PCM circuit board making the PCM unrepairable. I was forced to replace the PCM completely. Diagnostics You want to start the engine and check the blue for +12V. This +12V power should be present with the engine running. It's tested by using a DVM or test light. If power is not present then the PCM is damaged. The green wire will show a good ground more than likely but this will not work is there is no +12V to the field. This is where you make use of the article for ECM /PCM rebuilders. Make sure to test the alternator and replace it as well. The Modification This is based on the W-T ground wire mod. Being the field lead is powered from the PCM and the PCM, ECM and VP44 all share the same 20 amp fuse in slot G of the PDC. This fuse is too large to protect the PCM from a field wire short. This means you would have to purchase a fuse holder and solder in a fuse holder on the blue wire. With the PCM connectors removed from the PCM look at the connector towards the fender, this is connector C3. Pin 25 is the blue wire you can ohm test from end to end to be sure the wire is not broken. Then ohm between the blue wire and ground to verify its not shorted to ground still. Now take the tape near the loom and unwind it. This will give you about another 1 inch of wire. About 2 inches from the loom cut the blue wire. This should give you like 6 inches from the plug end and then a kind of stubby 2-inch wire on the loom end. Now solder in the fuse holder and use shrink tubing over your solder joints. With a bit of neat folding of the wire you should be able to loom the fuse holder into the loom again. I know that @IBMobile did the load testing of the field lead and suggests a 7.5 amp fuse. I'm going to do the testing with a 5 amp fuse. As for protection of the alternator on the charge lead, I opted to purchase a resetable 150 amp breaker. I know the factory alternator fuse was 140 amps. I know that the alternator will not produce more than 135 amps of charging current. I know the breaker is not there for protection the alternator for excessive charge current. The breaker is there just in case there is a dead short on the diode pack. If the short was good enough it could light that 6 gauge cable on fire. So having an exact 140 amp breaker is not required. The other thing I was reading up on was the breakers tend to trip prematurely because of underhood temperatures. I wanted to be just that little bit bigger that it does not trip the breaker because the alternator is already at full current charging on a hot day like jump starting another vehicle. Fallout, External Regulator users As for all you as fallout from this problem you typically were doing the external voltage regulator because of the PCM failure. I'm going to suggest that you consider doing the PCM repair and doing this mod and getting away from the external voltage regulator. View full Cummins article

Auto Computer Specialist took care of me properly. They opened the PCM and looked it over and supplied me photos of the damage. They condemned my PCM and had a new PCM ready to go shortly afterwards. These people are wonderful to work with and well worth the phone call to have them take care of your ECM or PCM repairs. https://autocomputerspecialist.com/

But take notice of the amount of water it took to grow the algae. Another reason it best to either fill the tank and store it long term because it hard to stuff water in with a full tank of fuel. Or to completely drain it of fuel completely. Hard to grow the algae without diesel fuel present. If I was concern of a algae problem I would drain and drop the tank and clean it out. I would not use a fuel additive because you'll kill the algae but where is it going to go? Right to the fuel filter. This mean you better just buy a box of filters and keep changing every time the pressure start to drop. Simply be easier to drain and wash the tank out. Then fill with fresh fuel. Problem gone...

First I would see if there are any problems with algae before adding something you don't need. I would run the truck for good 20 to 50 miles and pull the fuel filter and replace. If its a spin-on filter cut the can and examine the filter media. If it the stock drop in then just look at the media for algae. As long as the fuel cap was on the filler neck I really doubt there is an issue. Unless you adding water to the fuel to grow algae. Algae only grows if there is water in the fuel tank.

Merry Chrismas to you all. I had to edit @dripley post to get that video in the post that's funny fowl play right there. It looks my Christmas present showed up. My New PCM. Cummins rolls again.