Mopar1973Man

Not much really. Intake Air Temperature Coolant Temperature Engine Load MAP RPM MPH Volts and a few more I can't remember right now. But then the rest is all calculated information from the given information from the port. Like, estimate GPH fuel flow, MPG gauge. etc. Basically, the OBDII port can't provide any more than there are sensors for.

Any current error codes? What is your fuel pressure? Are you drawing air into the fuel causing it to cut out? You should be able to see this in fuel pressure.

There are only the green and blue wires on the back of the alternator. Green is a variable ground for the alternator field. Blue is +12V when the key is turned on.

Check the green wire. If the green field wire is shorted to ground the alternator will runaway wildly.

I've gotta ask how in the heck are you guys pulling the old cigarette light plugs out? I see the 2 locks. I can still my big paws up behind both plug and just touch the back of both power point and the cigarette lighter plugs. I just need to know what has to happen to get them out of the dash?

Now that I added the raffle plugin now we'll see who won the high idle raffle. As for the previous you'll have to ask @Me78569 .

At least for Idaho laws. You can have a light bar on the highways as long as the bar is mounted BELOW the headlight line. If its mount above the headlights like on cab top then its illegal to use on the public highway. Backroads (dirt roads) are fine but be aware USFS can pitch a bee-otch too and complain about them as well.

Single disc clutches hold up just fine as long as you don't torque trap the driveline which you've done. When you add 33 inch tires you now lowered the final ratio (3.40:1) to the ground placing more stress on the driveline and the clutch. I did the very opposite and went to a smaller tire and raised my final ratio to (3.69:1) and allowed the tires to break free before the clutch does. I'd rather spin the tires lose than break the main shaft or spin a clutch.

It's all about alignment of the input shaft to the crank basically.

Personally, I've done a lot of towing without limited slip axles at all. From heavy firewood trailers, backhoes, hay trailers, etc. No need for limited slip axles. If your offroad a lot then it might bonus in added traction on slick surfaces. Better control with using 4WD though. closing in on 400k miles and it wonderful not to have to deal with replacing clutch packs or having to use special synthetic rear lubricants. Just plain ol' 80w-90 GL-5 still going strong!

Just going to have shift issues till you look at that pilot bearing. Basically, the input shaft is getting some spinning force from the crank so the syncro's are working harder to sync the gears up. It will most likely hold up just not optimal shift quality. That is something I'm running across is a lot of blaming the fuilds for poor assembly of the clutch. So to make up for the poor assembly of the clutch they require thinner lubricant to bring the shift quality back. I know what you talking about because when I started with the 50 WT lubes I had the transmission rebuilt and main shaft replaced. Installed the transmission on a worn clutch my shift quality was like you said kind of notchy and rough feeling. My pilot bearing was most likle getting a bit dry. After the clutch failed in 2007 and I replaced it all South Bend Con OFE again. Smooth as silk. That transmission was hand pushed into place and works awesome. OP installed a dual disc South Bend which is KNOWN for being notchy and a bit harder to shift even South Bend was very clear in explaining this to me hence why I tend to favor the single disc.

Already been there done that and sport headlight sucked. Hence why I sold the headlights on the classified area last year. I only owned them for one year and sold them because you could not see worth a darn. Even with the relay mod. Light pattern sucks. At that point I dumped the sport headlight and my four 100w driving lights for what I've got now which cost me $1,000.00 and it is the best lighting you can buy. Morimoto D2S HID lights already completely assembled in a Plug N' Play kit. Then the PIAA LED driving lights. This is what I did on the 2002 Dodge 2500. I just finished up the 1996 Dodge which I did the clear lens stock headlights again with a cheapy HID bulb kit. Those sucked too. I could see very fair ar all The low beam was good but the high beam was dimmer and not a high beam at all. The bulb is a HID low beam and 55w halogen high beam. I yanked those out and went to Autozone and got a set of SilverStar Halogen bulbs 9004 and those are OK. The pattern isn't as good as the Morimoto but it will do for a fall back truck.

Twins yeah... Different story I'm only dealing with singles friction disc typically. (Rancher and construction trucks) Both versions can be damaged by forcing transmission with the bolts. Aftermarket you can force them out the back or cock the bearing slightly causing drag on the input shaft and bind in the bearing. Stock pilot bearing are not forgiving and don't take much to damage them at all. Forcing a transmission in with the bolts is an absolute no-no. It should meet the face of the bell housing with only hand pressure!

Before any takes this the wrong way its meant as a joke in my title. I know the gent I was talking to will know... Storyline... MoparMom and I show up to the DaVita Dialysis center in Ontario, OR. I press the buzzer and the nurse came to the door saying, "We are just a bit behind schedule it will be a few minutes." Mom and I go to the waiting area and sit down. In comes a gentleman and come in and sits down beside me and says, "I'm not a stalker, but I do know who you are Mopar1973Man." So, he continues to tell me that he's been watching the forum and knew about Mom's dialysis treatments. He started asking me about truck information. This gentleman happened to own a 1996 Dodge at one point sold it and now bought a 2001 Dodge 2500 SB. Now he wants my special touch. Our conversation was broke for a moment while I got Mom into her appointment. Then we went outside to the truck. Then all the questions started about injectors, programmers and tuners, efficiency, etc. This gentleman was truly enjoying the conversation and soaking up the information. During all this Jeff one of the patients at DaVita walks up and asking about getting together to finish his 1997 Dodge fuel solenoid issue. I was getting from two people now. Jeff had to get in for his appointment and left. It was on the cool side out there I offered to let him go for a ride. Since the time I got to the center the engine nearly cooled off completely. Quadzilla did it thing and ramp up which I could see the wheels going in his head "My truck doesn't do that..." Then we left and headed towards the I84 for a blast west. Now as I was heading down the ramp I was pulling fair amount of power and it set him right back in the seat. He was in shock not seen a truck pull that hard. We went out to the Oregon state park and turned around and came back. By that time he was full of more questions. This continued on for the entire 3 hours of MoparMom treatment. By that time he was asking if he could bring the truck up to the house and some money and have me start building him a truck similar to what I've got going on. He's wanting to do Quadzilla Adrenaline for sure, RV275 Injectors, BHAF, AirDog 150, W-T ground wire mod and few minor things to the truck. Hopefully, this gentleman will speak up on the forum. He admitted that he is not computer savvy but maybe he will dive in.

Might have something misaligned or putting stress on the pilot bearing with misalignment. Little trick learned by two people. 1. When you get that point where you know the tip of the input shaft is just barely starting in the pilot bearing. You now take 4 long bolts the same thread and without heads. Now thread all 4 guide pins in the bell housing. This ensures that transmission angle is now correct but cannot be forced into place. 2. Being it just won't go any farther now hook up the clutch slave cylinder. Have a second guy press the clutch to the floor. This will release the friction disc and typically the transmission falls into place with little effort. This is because of the alignment tool is typically loose and not a perfect center, so the input shaft won't line up with the pilot. I no longer use the alignment tools and go strictly on feel of the friction disc edge measure by feel. Being you used the bolts to pull it in you most likely have stress on the pilot bearing causing your odd shift issues. 50 WT fluid shouldn't make any difference. I'm just about to cross 100k miles on 50 WT and no issues to this day still shift great even in 0*F weather now and transmission temps never moving the gauge off 100*F. It's not the fluid. I say the input shaft is bound up from being forced in.

No. 9007 vs 9004 bulbs are designed differently and require different headlight reflectors. Then the index key on the bulb bases it in a different location. 9007 bulbs are used in the sport dual bulb setup. Trust me there is no gain but switching the light is still very crappy and poor. Even the 9004 I just installed in the 1996 Dodge 1500 are much better. Which I did standard headlight cases with clear lens.

Strange but true. After 300k miles and I replace my reservoir to seal the screen in my pump was spotless and clean. No debris at all. The reservoir was clean also just wiped it out to clean out in the old fluid residue.

Same here. Last warm day I got 20.5 MPG and now that most of the day is rather on the cold side. I'm now down to about 19 MPG. The cetane level has really increased the last few trips.

I almost fell into the same trap. Then I took another sip of coffee and the fuel pressure clicked that's 12V specs.

03 and up I'm not sure what material is used in the pump.

Outside / Inside door -> Evaporator -> Blend door -> Heater core -> Vent selector door The only other thought is do you get everything lined up right and bolted down correctly?

All I can say about power steering fluid and change interval. You should be changing every 30k miles. I've been using petroleum power steering fluid since the beginning. My steering box never failed as in sloppy steering but the seals failed from excessive rust around the seal. As for my power steering pump it's still going strong. When I reseal my reservoir it was exceptionally clean inside and no sludge build up or debris. I've still got my OEM hydro-booster and still without leaks. Mine is a cast iron housing on the power steering pump.

This one I know of for sure. After having such a long conversation with Ryan at Blue Top.

P-pump fuel pressure sounds about right. Mechanical lift pump tends to lose volume in the higher RPM range. This is normal. Boost is resulting typically of spent fuel. Like what I'm learning with the Quadzilla on the 24V engine as you retard timing you can increase boost but at a loss of efficiency. Then if you advance timing you push more of the burning cycle in the cylinder making the boost lower and EGT's lower. Sad but true a P7100 is a static timing pump that has no advancement.

Blend door is not going to be it. The outside / inside door would be more in line for the problem.