Mopar1973Man

Interesting...

Need to have at least 5 feet of tube between the last snubber before the sender for the gauge. This allows the pulses to fade out over distance of the tubing. The ISSPro EV2 gauge will come with a sinstered snubber as well. Stack that after the needle valve then 5 feet of tubing then the sender. NOTE: Grease gun hoses doesn't count. Too short of a distance and the flexible hose doesn't dampen any of the pulses.

Yes, you grid heaters are hitting. I would say the diodes are OK but I would do the W-T ground mod. On a grid heater hit I'm barely 29mV AC and idle no load is now about 12mV AC.

Remove the dash bezel. Then you might have to drop the steering column to remove the cluster but it held in by 4 screws. Once the 4 screws are removed you should be able to pull it out of the dash socket. Like mine won't come out unless I drop my column slightly to gain clearance.

In the yard no. As for in New Meadows, Idaho I drove there a nasty winter storm last night so bad it buried my headlight till it went nearly dark on me. HID lights don't have even heat to keep the snow off the outer plastic in a bad storm. That is my exhaust brake switch.

I've got to ask another wild question do you have a live data tool? if so take notice to the IAT temperature. If the engine coolant temperature and the intake air temperature don't match then more than likely the IAT sensor could be bad. It's possible for the IAT sensor to fail within specs and not trip an error code. But... The intake air temperature reports wild temperature could be very high and prevent the grid heaters from coming on. This poses another thought too. I know my High Idle Kit has the MPG mode which fools the IAT to show 143°F at key on the grid heaters will not fire at all. Then after starting the grid heaters will cycle in. I wonder if the IAT circuit has a homebrew resistor added as a fooler and causing the grid heaters not to fire. This could be seen with the live data tool as well it will report 143°F typically regardless hot or cold.

Even with the grid heaters running I max out at 29mV AC for ripple out of the alternator. That is full load on the alternator.

Got it all put together now. I got the two USB cables for both my cellphone and my Garmin GPS in black color and 6 foot long which gave more than enough for routing the cables through the dash to the device. Then the Cobra hard wire kit was great too. No more cigarette light for it. I just wired it into the terminal strip under the dash. It now on the key with engine on and not the accessory position. No more listening to it beep at store alarm while sitting in parking lots. Comes out of the USB charger and then head back into the dash. I've still got my other USB Cigarette plug style for down in the power point but not required now. USB is bit thicker cable so not to break the bezel I routed to the bottom of the bezel where there is a gap to get back into the dash. This was a PITA to route the wire for. There isn't much room left in the dash gap to get a fuse cartridge through. Should have brought the plug end up through the bottom with a piece of baling wire as a fish tape. If you are wondering the other wire is my red emergency flasher hidden behind the rearview mirror.

Remember some codes like P0216 code does NOT trip the Check Engine light. Do you have power to the main terminals of the relays? (Large black cables)

Don't say that I might order +100 HP nozzles...

Only thing to add to @trreed post is all the guys I've ever talked to after doing a P-pump swap typically take a hit to MPG's. This why I don't suggest it for daily driver setup. Again all depends on how you set it up and how much time you willing to tinker with timing and fueling setups. Normally the p-pump is for guys looking for big HP numbers.

Huge reduction of AC noise from the alternator is kept away from the VP44 and ECM and prevent their failure from occurring. The master ground for the ECM, PCM, and VP44 all run right beside the alternator charge lead. So the AC noise jumps off and rides the ground lead back to the computers kill the modules with AC noise pulses. As you can see here the ground is right next to the alternator charge lead. What the mod does is put the alternator on the passenger battery and the engine ground to the block near the VP44 with the added lead back to the driver side battery separating the charge lead and the master ground by FEET of distance!

Personally if its a daily driver just replace with a stock HO pump. If you are going to the race track then I would go p-pump. Even then there is guys that past the 1,000 HP barrier with VP44 pumps. Still have way better timing control with VP44 than a p-pump. Even though the p-pump can fuel more. The VP44 has way better daily characteristics and can be fuel managed way better now with the Quadzilla compared to Edge Products.

Typically yes. If the APPs falls out of range either hi or lo voltage it trips a code instantly and ignores the throttle signal for safety to prevent a WOT run away if it happens to be a hi volt issue. Dang... I wish you had a Quad I tell you to just monitor the TPS signal and watch and see if it does anything strange during the dead pedal issue. You could do it if you have an OBD live data tool too but I'm not sure if you have one.

Little bit to think about. Why I'm doing what I plan on. Ok my first set of injectors from DAP was the 7 x 0.0085 SAC injectors had a nasty stalling issue hot. Try re-popping a bit higher and still was having issues stalling made it worse. Then find out it was valve lash causing the stalling issue. Re-adjusted and problem gone by this point I had then redo the injectors for 7 x 0.0085 VCO and set for typical 300 bar. The lifespan is short now the injectors are below usable pop pressure and not quite to 100k miles. I want to aim slightly higher being that even the SAC's when they test dropped an average of -5 Bar from the time built to 2k miles I put on them. I figure 320 bar and the -5 bar settling would land me in the 315 bar realm. WARNING - This is all theory and experimental. There is no proof I'm right...

Charing system is pretty simple...The field lead. Blue should be +12 volt power with the key on. Green is a variable ground controlled by the PCM.

I'm next in line I'm trying to save my pennies and spare change for injectors. I've got an awesome set of OEM bodies that are in excellent condition and just got to make the phone call to Jacob and say he they come, get them built. I'm thinking of doing the 320 bar.

I can tell you that @cajflynn was a driving fool. (In a good way) I heard from him 800-mile day if possible. I tend to believe the more you use it the longer it will last. I'm nowhere near the level of driving that Cajflynn is but I'm much high than the average person here in M73M. The only one close to me I think is good ol Dripley (David Ripley) he's about 100k miles ahead of me but we seem to average about the same amount of miles month to month for the most part. Even looking at his truck it's holding up rather well a bit more abused but doing good!

Just to experiment with the idea and see what truly happens. Any bonus, any loses, etc. So far I've not seen any huge loss of MPG other than a few tuning adjustments to gain it back. Last tank was 19.5 MPG running through a snowstorm. The only bonus I can see on this side is that you can keep the engine -10°F cooler and give more time pulling hard and heavy on a grade before it rises. That's about it. Nope. Never had any kind of heat issues. I want to jump to a 200°F thermostat next to see if there gains or bouns on that side.

Just rise +10°F. That's all. Like my idle temperature is the 172°F. Running down the pavement in a snowstorm I still saw 186 to 188°F. So if I changed for 190°F it would be idling at 182°F and running about 197°F the last I remembered.

Basically, you need to go through the front end and check everything that is a joint of some sort. If it's loose and sloppy it needs to be replaced. This last summer I spent plenty of time on my front axle. Tie rod ends, new shocks, new steering box (leak), front end alignment, etc. I would double check the column bolts. Another loose spot possible... http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/

Long time no see @stodg73 ... Yea, That is your only option is to finally replace that Vp44.

Correct that +12V from the alternator. If you do the W-T ground wire mod that would be an open terminal. Still +12V. Ground should be as SHORT as possible and to body metal. Ground does not require running all the way to the battery.

Need to specify built automatics only. I don't see being able to do this with 5 speed handshaker.

Not true. I left mine unhooked an entire year while my VP44 warranty was in effect. No issues after hooking up. The only thing is possibly a bad connection.