Mopar1973Man

Sure I could @Sycostang67. Make sure you get the ring terminals and maybe a roll of electrical tape. I'll do the W-T mod for you and that one bolt which is listed in the article. I'm sure you know where I'm staying at already?

Pulling the 2 inch leveling kit today get it done to stock rake once again another truck with 35 inch tires on 3.55 gear which the owner opted for 285s on the 17 wheels. Make this truck run right. I do this more than you think. Removing lift kits.

Found out its fake. I was trying to get hold of both of you to verify. There is 5 videos all labeled Southern California where highways are destroyed and massive damage of a 11 to 12 earthquake. Yeah found out they were fake or not Vally videos.

Yeah typically but it's possible for the fork to move enough to turn out the light but still be in 4WD locked mode. My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 was prone to that. Cable driven is a better solution than vacuum.

I got 3.30 inches on the day it rolled in. It rained most of the way down to the RV in Parma.

This is due to fluid thrashing from the torque converter. The clutch locks the the torque convertor solid which stops the fluid thrashing which makes lots of heat. Another example I've seen fire truck pump tests. Now pumping 1250 gallons a minute under a load of a measuring device at like 300 psi will heat 40 degree water to over 140 degrees in just a mere hour. The test tank is 2000 gallons IIRC.

Just keep in mind pop pressure affects timing as well. If popped at 310 bar you should be right on. For every 10 bar plus or minus is roughly 2 degrees I've figured in tuning. Just a tidbit to pass along to help you out.

Are you sure the front axle isn't locked in? Sure sounds like typical 4WD crow hop. Weird?

Anyone in the Boise area wants to meet up with me? I'm staying in Parma at a friend's place with my RV. Even got Thor all loaded up with tools and willing to meet up with other forum members. I'm down in the southwest Idaho doing Cummins work. I've got a return of a client with a 98 12V Cummins. Yeah there is a total of 4.8A draw on this truck and it's in several circuits. Instrument cluster, PCM, trailer brake controller, hazards, and integrated module (similar to the central timer). Already got the 35 inch tires off for 285s. Replaced the wasted front rotors and brake pads. I've got the A/C working and vacuum lone issues fixed.

Personally I like battery isolators that use 2 heavy duty diodes and wired from the alternator to the isolator the has the main battery terminal and a house battery terminals. This way your capable of getting the most from the vehicle alternator. Diode tend to last longer because there is no contacts to burn and diodes act like one way flow valves for electricity. Where a solenoid is a switch which h now could stick closed and drain both batteries.

Anything plugged in to the trailer connector is powered directly from the engine batteries.

Hmmm. I can't say I've seen a dash cap for the 3rd Gen trucks. Personally I would check out LMC Truck for a cap but still personally I would do a full replacement.

Or possibly the torque converter clutch is wasted and slipping. Just the possibility.

No isolator in the truck. You would have to buy one and install it.

Like I'm working on a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 12V with a electrical draw and already pulled the center seat to access the module to see about fixing the electrical draw of 4.5 to nearly 5 amps. In this case the seat module is working and not part of the problem. As for the ABS and BRAKE lights that is because typically there is a speed sensor error or failure.

Sadly if the crank sensor been changed most likely the key is sheared or there is problems with the VP44 in its timing. Also I've seen people lose the tone ring on the crankshaft too.

This truck has about 4.7A to almost full 5A draw. Now I can tell you what fuses stop the draw but not sure what to do next. Tag @Auto Computer Specialist hopefully he see this. In the PDC you need to pull the 20A PCM fuse #3. Then the 10A combination flasher fuse B. Then in the cab the IOD fuse 12, integrated module fuse 13, and cluster fuse 14 in the dash. This drops the total draw to 0.2 Amps total. I've got a power distribution map but in PDF format. michael nelson wiring diagram power distribution.pdf

This truck has about 4.7A to almost full 5A draw. Now I can tell you what fuses stop the draw but not sure what to do next. Tag @Auto Computer Specialist hopefully he see this. In the PDC you need to pull the 20A PCM fuse #3. Then the 10A combination flasher fuse B. Then in the cab the IOD fuse 12, integrated module fuse 13, and cluster fuse 14 in the dash. This drops the total draw to 0.2 Amps total. I've got a power distribution map but in PDF format. michael nelson wiring diagram power distribution.pdf

Your lucky... Even my ATV has been down for the summer with a bad rear brake cable for the left-hand lever. I've not done any riding this year at all.

Brake and ABS lights are a speed sensor issue typically. It could be a bad wheel bearing in the front too. As for the seat belt double check the buckle switch on the driver side buckle. As for the module it might be easier to change the seats out for a late series without the module.

@IBMobile is correct. This is controlled by the PCM and will be hot after tach signal is seen. So you should do your testing with the engine running.

Yup, I'm going to be heading toward Parma, ID Monday evening. I'm going to be hauling the RV back after I get done with jobs I'm trying to get lined up right now for being down there. I've got a few things to handle down in Parma ID and Nampa ID. So I might be holed up at the RV for the storm.

How To Display Engine Hours On The Odometer What Is Needed Ignition Keys Procedure This is an easy process to check the total hours on the engine. First off insert your ignition key and turn the key on but do not start. Quickly pressed and hold the trip button until the odometer display switches over to displaying hours. You'll know that the hours are being displayed. The odometer display shows the Hr prefix for the hour number displayed. Purpose If you happen to be using your truck in a manner that has extended idle times or possible PTO usage or using an 12-volt electric winch where the truck is idling for an extended period you can base your maintenance off the hour meter instead of the odometer which will not account for extended idling times. Full Article with video for subscribing members View full Cummins article

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