Mopar1973Man

That's just a day job there for doing the tappet cover. I can pull the VP44, the fuel filter, and ECM and replace the tappet gasket easy. W-T ground wire mod is about 1 to 2 hours to do... I've done several while I was hauling @MoparMom back and forth to Ontario, OR. With 4.5 hour wait might as well be productive right?

Sorry to say I don't have the experience inside a transmission either being I never got the time to go up and do the training in Washington for rebuilding. The other problem I don't have the tools for pulling the bearings off the shaft either. I could easily pull the transmission and have it on the floor in about 2 hours. Just a matter of finding a shop willing to change the bearing in a timely manner and then about 3 hours to put it back in. That's barring there is no issues, bolts stripped, etc.

You could install a 6.7L thermostat that is 200°F. @pepsi71ocean been running one for quite some time. That's one I've never had either the door is stuck full hot or full cold. Mine I've had it apart and glue the plastic coupler back together with super glue being I was short on time. I needed the truck right now type moment so its still working yet.

Typically when the plastic coupler breaks then the motor just keeps turning and never stops. The last one I went to service it would turn both ways and never stop but the air temp will not change from hot to cold or visa versa. As for heat issues two thing to check both hoses should NOT be equally hot. If the heater core is performing good then the one hose going to the steel tube (not going to the head) should be considerable cooler than the hose from the head. So if the hot side is 195*F roughly while the truck is running the cold side could be as low as 100 to 120*F returning back to the water pump. This show good heat transfer to the air. If both hoses are equally hot then the heater core is plugged internally with debris or externally plugged at the evaporator. The other one I found is if the evaporator core is plugged up with debris on the face then heater performance will suffer. Like the photo below I replaced the heater core, then power washed the evaporator core removed all the debris and the customer complained about being cooked to death in the cab. When all is working you should see about 160*F to 170*F out of the center vent on high fan and temperature knob over to full hot.

Well... I could hop on a plane and rip that transmission out in about 2 hours and maybe get the bearing redone in a short order and stab it back in the next day. Sad part is that no matter how you look at it it does cost.

I had a customer that wanted me to change his clutch but when I pulled the transfer case the gap between was fully of ATF and trans gear lube. Previous installer silicone the mating faces and plugged the drain hole. I changed both transfer case and transmission seal to have it leak again. Transmission had a bad bearing.

Shaft bearing is bad most likely.

Like my truck the AirDog is right behind the transfer case. Guarded by the transfer case and skid plate.

Shouldn't matter being a long as the fuel lines are parallel to the frame and the inlet is facing rearward.

Found the old pipe this was my stainless pipe and how it failed. Like I said stainless will melt and fail so be very careful. From what I remember it was 904 stainless stove pipe seamless as you can see the pipe got hot and start to distort.

Here would be my suggestion. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086BQJD85/?coliid=I2VRUFEAK8A93W&colid Magnetic Induction Heater which will heat that block heater up and should allow you to get the heater unscrewed. Typically I just get a big socket and long handle breaker bar and they typically come out. Ford 7.3L are no different and just down by the oil filter on the driver side. I've change 2 of those without even drain coolant.

Be aware stainless does NOT hold up to the same amount of heat that steel can. I found out for my last person that was renting my guest house was burning the fire so hot that the pipe melted. The entire stack was stainless and the first 3 of pipe from the stove melted and collapsed. I'll never use stainless again being the melt point is much lower than plain steel pipe. Now it replaced with steel and working great once again.

You'll get better results if the grill is covered and blocking out most the air from passing over the intercooler. Yes I've ran couple of winters without the engine fan all together. No issues even idling in traffic.Yeah I've tested the cardboard idea in between but what I learned was the coolant temps rose fairly sharp and the IAT was still cold. This is why I cover the grill if the fan is still in place and the coolant temps rise for some reason (weather warmed up while traveling or climbing a grade with weight or trailer) then the fan can still keep coolant in check. But with cardboard in between no the fan can't keep it cool no air flow (or at least limited). Yeah That method I've seen a few high coolant temps. Like the last few morning have been right at +17*F. This morning is right at +25*F. Today I've got to dig out my winter fronts and install them. I'll grab a bit of video.

As soon as I get a shot at getting back into my shop... Installing a 200*F thermostat, better thermal efficiency. (6.7L Cummins) Installing my winter fronts block out the cold air across the intercooler. Possibly removing the engine fan. Depends on the future temperatures if they are going to remain this cold. Installing a new rear driveshaft u-joint. Like tonight we all went up to Katie's Dad's place in New Meadows, ID to play on snowmobiles and then ate pizza and played cards. When we left there it was about 8pm at night the outside temperature was barely +20*F and the IAT was just barely 50*F. Below +80*F the air is just too cold. My MPG's are down and need to make changes to improve this because price of diesel is nearly $6 a gallon here. Minnie is no longer going to be used very much maybe on a good weather day drive it to Riggins, ID for minor shopping. Not really a good option with the snow and ice issues now. Thor has been parked in the yard and only been used once in the last month. Wrenching is slowing way down now with winter time coming. The only way Thor is being used is a emergency call for someone broke down.

Now that I've got you all paying attention just remember when your injectors are worn out and the droplets are getting big this is what causes misfire, black smoke and other performance issues. Why? Because the time the piston is coming up and the limited amount of heat available large droplets do not change from liquid to vapor to BANG. This is a reason why I went up to 320 bar on my pop pressure not down. As my injectors age the pop pressure will go down with wear and mileage. Injectors do not last past 100k miles typically. Cold air intake are not a help. Maybe in racing but not in daily driving. Like this morning it +17*F degrees outside. Optimal IAT temperatures for a daily driver is about 100*F to 140*F to get the most from the engine. Below +80*F the ECM will stack on another 3 to 4 degree advancement. This is where the Quadzilla tuner doesn't allow this to occur, but you keep your set timing. Warmer the air on a winters day the better BHAF with a winter front on the truck will work keeping the IAT temps up. This will improve the overall ignition process. Another in this realm is your normal cruising RPM faster pumping creates better heat for ignition like the fire piston in the video if you slide the piston to slow the there is less heat. Here is where final ratio comes to play 3.73 is optimal for 2nd Gen 24V truck. That puts you right at 65 MPH right close to 2k RPMs. Just to make you all think...

VP44 could be bad, doesn't have to throw codes to be bad either. If compression is there and the only thing left is being able to inject fuel.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRxgM6rG/

Actually the snow is a bit early for down here. Tonight its going to drop down to +17*F tonight and be cold. Still nothing much to panic about I was running in McCall ID in 2WD most of the day.

Do not use the stainless flex or stainless pipe. I had my past renter (Eileen's Son - Jacob) which managed to melt that stainless flex tube and drop the entire chimney liner back down inside the damper inside the chimney. Mark my current renter pull it all out and replaced the bottom half with all steel pipe and adjustable elbows and now its working again. Mark complains about being too hot now.

For me I don't think camping is going to occur till after winter is over being its been snowing here for most of the early morning hours. The RV you can see tucked in next to the tree in the yard.

Good Morning everyone. It officially winter in Idaho.

I wish... I fried my OBDLink LX series on a bad firmware update. I've not replaced it yet but plan on it soon.

No. The ABS is most likely a speed sensor. The misfire is going be separate. You could unplug the ABS module to see but I doubt it will change the misfire.

Heck it's just a day drive to get to Seattle WA from here in New Meadows ID.

Wow. Hang in there.