tsmithnw

i wouldnt worry about it i ran my turbo with the wastegate plugged for years and I run my s330 with no waste gate also i am over 300k only thing I did i did is put a marine head gasket in it when i had the head checked.

I have my 100k 200k and 300k my wife got them for me. She told me it was to remind me when our kids cant go to college I can show all three of them where the money went.

the block is screwed in to the axle house it is also the vent for the axle. ill take some picture but no laughing. I live in a tiny town and had to use what i could get but it seem to work. Sorry pictures arent that good i am laying in the snow and just got home from work so i have 1000 gallon of deicer on everything. If you look i use the vent house with some custom zip tie action to support the brake line. so i dont break the hard line on each end. Sad to say but i think i have more zip ties then bolt on my truck at this point. I do love a good zip tie.

well for the most part. I decided to replace all the lines from the spliter on the axle to the frame because it was so rusty from not working. Also on my truck the original line ened up being to sort to reach up to the frame so i made new one with a front brake line off a pete. so that is can travel and move without breaking.

i had this issue it is the rear brake proportioning valve up on the frame. It took me a bit to figure it out but everything looked correct and look to be operating how it was suppost to. But the magic brake gods made my rears last 250k and didnt have even a mark on them. Long story sort figure out it was the vavle up on the frame drivers side where that rod was runs upfrom the axle. It was broke in side and was mostly closed so was have a flow issue. So i wipped out alittle rednecklolgy and by passed the little guy. I have had it that way for two years and it works great only issue you will be running 60/40 split all the time will pucker you butt first time you touch them. They will throw you through the window. Because you arent us to have all the brakes working. I dont have any issue in the snow or ice either. I not telling you this is the best way to fix it but i have 50 k on my rednecking and it is great.

I have 305,000 on my truck. Still start most the time and even sometime runs.

I have change mine every 15,000 to 20,000 for the last 300,000 miles. Damn thing is still running so Delo must be working. I never have tired anything but Delo

Welcome to Central Washington and yes you have two option for the basin Windy or windy and smells like cow ____.

I also lost my fusible link between the pcm and the battery on the passenger side. That cause all kind of craziness. Had code that Cummins Nw couldn't figure out. Always one to check also

pull the panel off by your left foot and look and the wiring harness. I had my Head light switch go bad and it melted a butch of wiring together. Sound like a harness issue

well i guess on Monday i will drop my tank out and see what i can red neck up. I need to get the mud and sand of the top of the tank anyway. Will give me a reason to give my truck its once a year power washing.

Anyone ever though about running a vent up and drilling a hole in the steel plate by the fuel cap. I wouldn't think that would be to much of a pain or would it vent fuel on rough roads.

i looked for a couple month to try and find specs on the internet but never could find anything solid. I should got to cat and see if they could find anything on it. Only has cat part numbers on it. Really the only reason i like it so much is that is sound like a jet engine. I get ugly looks all the time on the highway. When i am pulling something and it drive my wife crazy to ride with me that the number one plus.

let me know if it works i clean my vent last year. I did it in the late summer and now I'm back to it have pressure when I take the cap off. All ways wonder if anyone ever made a cap with a vent i would buy one. Tired of cleaning mud off the top of my tank from hunting season

mmm i am a cheater i am running it with no waste gate. so that is yeah i am seeing 50+ for boost. Yes i know its bad but i never see high EGT. I have never seen a s330 like this one i was going to get a industrial injectors one but this one is over all over big in size and the shaft looks bigger inside. I got it a a Christmas present from my boss for putting his 12v back together for his truck after he cooked it down. I think it is for a rock truck or a grader. I have a waste gate come with the rest of my parts for my pro charger.

I run a s330 single turbo which makes my HX35 look like a kids toy. I only run 4 to 6 psi running down the highway. My egt is around 700 to 800. When i am pulling hills empty might see 30 to 40. When i am hauling hay or a excavator my gauge only goes to 50 psi (order the wrong gauge) and is pegged out and a EGT never get past 1100. Also running 150hp injectors for my day to day drivers. I also have a set of DDP 250hp. When i finish my pro charger set up. I am also running straight 5 inch out of turbo. It makes a huge differences When it come to temps at less in my truck.

I just got done doing the whole light system on a set of doubles for a friends dad. I got everything from http://www.superbrightleds.com/. We used all the chrome ones they look good and are bright as hell. Only issue i have heard about LED here in the northern part of the world is they wont stay clean in the snow. They run so cool the have to be cleaned off more.

You know it all seem to start after i put my HID lights in I had the battier box out on the drivers side. and i installed a 6 fuse block the i am powering of the power post in the fuse panel under the hood i wounder if it is heating up and sending crazy power to all the main fuels - - - Updated - - - Ok thank you CSM for your advice. Just spent all morning with my tester. Long story short my cam sensor was toast had broke the plug off with a fir limb. So that set of code is fixed. Them here came the electrical issue with it. I put my HID lights in in the fall. Well just happen that its about the time heat grid started being used do to temp. Today found one of the fusible link is cooked and the relay on the finder is back feeding into the electrical system. It was dragging the system down for just s second at a time. Which was shutting down my apps and my fuel timing and putting my truck into lump mod. Just got back from a 50 mile drive most was on dirt roads and charging system ran great no issues. Final thing i figured out heater grid was coming on a sticking at random even when hot. That way when it getting warm like in the 80 and 90 the relay was heating and back feeding and sticking. Taking out my charging system. So need to get a new relay and feed line coming off the battery. But for now unplugged it no power to it so no issue. Note for everyone when you start have a load against your charging system you and you cant figure it out. Cummins NW told me that the grind is pulling around 95 amps and 12v. So always start there. Fine death toll to fix this was Alternator, PCM, Cam Sensor and 2 trips to dealership, Cummins NW and Local Guy. Funny thing is I got more information from everyone on here then the trip to repairs shops. Thank you everyone

Update on my fun for the month. Ok got my Cam sensor in took about 20 mins no big deal. Cleared the codes with a scan tool drove it about day no problems. Then it go above 80 and here come the same issue. But now i'm still get little different codes. My voltage is still dropping for no reason. Here is the code let see what you all think. I have a feeling my pcm is a bad and the voltage regulator took a crap in it. My other one made it almost 300k and this one is only 7 months. P0121 Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low P0122 Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) LowAPPS Voltage Input Too Low P1689 No Communication Between ECM & Injection Pump Module P1693 Generic fault indicating a fault in the bus or PCM/ECM interface - - - Updated - - - Update on my fun for the month. Ok got my Cam sensor in took about 20 mins no big deal. Cleared the codes with a scan tool drove it about day no problems. Then it go above 80 and here come the same issue. But now i'm still get little different codes. My voltage is still dropping for no reason. Here is the code let see what you all think. I have a feeling my pcm is a bad and the voltage regulator took a crap in it. My other one made it almost 300k and this one is only 7 months. P0121 Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low P0122 Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) LowAPPS Voltage Input Too Low P1689 No Communication Between ECM & Injection Pump Module P1693 Generic fault indicating a fault in the bus or PCM/ECM interface

when i tow my 30 ft trailer or a excavator. I only get around 13 or 14. But i am running 150hp injectors. Last year running from Portland to Lewiston i got 15. But that was all highway and i was running my boxes stacked. Only issue is my cruise control isn't smooth because it takes no throttle to keep it moving on flat ground so it lurches. That was by hand so it was probably lower. I was taking two log grapples and a boom sections what ever they weight.

i ran the 7.3 for years at work. We had nine of them when it came to cooling off even in the 50 we had to plug them in. We had a rule who ever got there first would go out and try to start them all. Most the time the higher mileage truck sounded like they were running on one cylinder and where trying to blow up till the started to warm up. We had three or four truck in the 300k plus. For the first 15 mins they ran they sounded horrible. - - - Updated - - - i ran the 7.3 for years at work. We had nine of them when it came to cooling off even in the 50 we had to plug them in. We had a rule who ever got there first would go out and try to start them all. Most the time the higher mileage truck sounded like they were running on one cylinder and where trying to blow up till the started to warm up. We had three or four truck in the 300k plus. For the first 15 mins they ran they sounded horrible.

Yes forgot to mention that i sand blasted it, then sanded it with progressively fine sand paper. Then took a polishing wheel on a drill to polish. I held the sand blast way back when i did it my cover had some clear coat on it that's why i used the sand blaster. I did have some pitting.

if you are in polished I sand blasted mine with a cheap harbor freight blaster then polished it. took a little work to get it done but looks good.

yeah it is 1998.5 and i did have the alternator tested and i had the electrical shop check the computer to make sure it is working correctly. My main issue is this it hard to track down because it is random it seem to happen the most when it gets above 70 or so. Last week it was in the 90's and i started it and it would turn the check light on even before the drove it. Funny part is when it is running like that it is like having my programmer on crazy man mode. It fuels so hard that cant see the highway behind me for a quarter mile when i am trying to merge. Maybe i wont fix it kind fun truthfully. Tomorrow my cam sensor should be here so i will put it in am hope for the best. Ill let you all know. Give me a reason to put in my steer shaft and gear box in also.

I took it to a electrical shop today had them go through everything. When i got there the system was bounce between 11.2 and 14.4. The battery are new and alternator. The pcm is less then six months old and has the latest updates thank to my wonderful local dodge dealer to broke the plug off the front. The shop took my engine harness out and pulled it part all of it looked good. I called cummins nw also they are telling me to start with the cam sensor also. Then if the issue no fixed with the sensor. I guess ill be taking a trip to Spokane to cummins to have them figure it out. The cam sensor has never been replaced by me. I bought the truck with 70k and now I'm a little over 300k