Dieselfuture

When I did mine after cleaning up lines, I torqued injectors down and left them be, then I put in tubes and then lines, they all stopped leaking in few days except one right behind intake. But it barely gets wet around nut so I'm going to wait and see. I think it's just left over fuel in that pocket that will dry out on its own. Just my guess. Unless it keeps leaking when I drive the truck then something isn't seating right. I'll see what happens. Been starting right up every morning.first it was all of the lines and now it's down to one, time will tell.

Some might not agree but I've been using synthetic 15-40 amsoil for past few years, with their filters one factory and one bypass (2micron I think) gota say that it stays cleaner longer, got about 2k on it now and still pretty clear on dip stick. At work we got some big motors with gear boxes and we switched a few years ago to synthetic, we got laser temp gauge and before bearings were at about 200f and now right around 170f plus we change it once a year where before it was twice and it still comes out cleaner. P.s. one thing I don't like about amsoil is how you got to buy it if you want a good deal.

You're right. I took all lines out and they all had a scar ring around where it seats to tubes, I used 600 and800 grit to get them looking new again, maybe I screwed it up, I'll try snugging them up some more hope it does it. My lines were bad when I got this truck I had a hell of time to stop them from leaking before, but I don't understand how high pressure doesn't push fuel out when engine is running but when shut off it seeps out. I thought maybe its initial fuel behind the nut from bleeding the line and because of oring on the tube it just sits in the hole until I shut it off and heat from engine gets fuel hot ant pushes it out of threads.

Quick question, I just cleaned all of my injectors and put them in and they all seem to leak a little out of nut on the head. But engine runs great and starts right up. And it doesn't leak when the engine is on its only a few minutes after I shut it off. And not a lot just makes it a bit wet, I wipe it off and it's fine and then after I run engine for few minutes and shut it off it seems to seep a little out again. Is this just from heat in head and fuel expands and comes out ? And once it all dries out behind the nut and before oring then it should be fine ?

Ok for those that been reading, I got it figured out. I had to drill another hole in module and return fuel in1/2" fitting, that way there is no restriction. When I did this my pressure came back to 15-16 so I put my shim washer back in return from AD and got right at 20 psi, I'm leaving it there as it seems to drop a little over time. Got a 1/4 tank now and slammed brakes and took of hard and no sucking air. For those of you with niddel valves on fuel guages you might not notice a drop in pressure right of way as niddel valve makes it a slow proces. Try opening your valve more and drive hard and see if you suck some air.

Don't use it as return, I drilled mine out as big as I could still too restrictive and brings pressure up to high. Try to teturn it as 1/2" also. All of the fittings inside module are too small.

Our local machine shop been using a lot of victor rienz gaskets, but I think cummins knows what they're doing.

It is because of module, I just went from draw straw out of module and return to filler neck, to ds5 that sucks out of module and returns to module and now my pressure fluctuates about 4psi where before maybe 1. I even drilled out all of the fittings inside of module to 5/16 and it didn't seem to help, I'm now trying to figure out how to suck 1/2" out of module and return from lift pump back module in 1/2" . That way when you step on it pressure wont change that much.

Anybody out there uses draw straw 5 with return from air dog going back to fuel module? My question is still the same as soon as I put my return from air dog from filler neck to module my fuel pressure went up 6 psi I took a shim out that I put in before to bump fuel pressure up to 19 or so but now without it I'm at 22, like I mentioned before I think it's because of restricted return. If I take my line of module and put it in bucket I get 15 psi but as soon as I plug it in to module I get 22 psi. So under heavy load or turning up fuel box fuel pressure fluctuates a lot more now, because spring is not shimmed anymore to keep pressure up for previous set up. I think Vulcan needs to look into this, I'm going to call them soon and see what they tell me.

Wouldn't returning fuel to filler neck cause not enough fuel in module? My AD returns a lot of fuel and basket is only so big, I would think you'll suck it dry. But maybe without screen it will suck enough fuel from bottom of module. My instruction says not to mess with screen and leave small rubber valve on bottom of module alone, and only drill one 1/2" hole 3" from bottom.

So are you returning both return lines to module? original vp and injector return line that t in to one, and the other line from Ad? To clip on 5/16 and 3/8 module fittings? That's what I did and noticed 3-4 psi increas in fuel pressure. So what I'm thinking now is return from AD plumb it in draw straw that is right next to module from previous owner and take some heat to nilon tube and bent it so it goes to module. Then there sould be no restriction and all fuel will go to basket.

Just got Draw Straw 5 from Vulcan to help with 1/4 tank sucking air problem. I got an upgraded in tank fuel pump module. This kit replaces in tank pump with clip in aluminum fitting and flex hose to top of sending unit. Then it says to replenish fuel back to module I need to use factory outlet (that's not used anyway) as return a quick connect that is 3/8 and new fitting is 3/8 to 1/2 barb. Before I did this my return was going to filler neck. So now that I got it all plumed according to instructions my fuel pressure went up to 22 where before it was 19. The only thing I can think of is restriction in return going from air dog to module, the actual hole in module is just over 1/4 where before it was just dumping it in filler neck with no restriction. Anybody had this problem ? and what did you ended up doing? If I return fuel to filler neck it will defeat the purpose of doing this kit, as Air Dog will suck module dry. While doing this I found return line from vp and injectors kinked off, just 8" down from quick connect on module. It was bent to about 45 degree angle. previous owner must off took fuel tank out to put in draw straw that came with air dog and when putting tank in pinched off return line. So I don't think there was much fuel if any returning for a while now. What problems would this cause? Any opinion is appreciated. Also does anybody upsize return lines and fittings from vp and injectors?

A little update on my truck. Not sure if you got to pull your camper after injector change and what the results were. But I decided to put in Draw Straw 5 in to my sending unit to cure 1/4 tank sucking air problems. I ended up taking my box off because of some rust I wanted to fix. And it was really easy only 6 bolts tail light wires and 3 screws for filler neck. Used 2 ratchet straps and engine hoist. Long story short return line for vp and injectors was bent on plastic part of it 8" down from quick connect. Maybe who owned truck before dropped tank and when putting it back didn't pay attention. It was bent at about 45 degree angle, so I don't think there was any fuel returning from vp and injectors for at least 4 years and 20k, I guess what my question is, would this cause missing with load on truck? and if so it maybe good idea to check your return line. I also jus got done adjusting valves and non of them were off more than 0.03, not sure if that's a lot or not. Got them set according to Moparman int 0.008 and exh 0.018. I didn't notice much change in doing valves, but after I unkinked my return line it seems to run a bit smother. haven't got a chance to tow yet.

I don't think it's track bar as it would wonder both ways, and if you buy one spend extra on adjustable one because with time your front springs sag and it will kill factory track bar in few thousand miles. also it will push your front end one way and frame the other, mine was off by an inch. So I made my own track bar with bushings on both ends and in the middle cut a chunk out and welded fine thread bolt to one end and three nuts to the other. If I put a heavy duty front bumper on I can screw track bar in some more and get axle back to center with frame. Good luck.

That is a good point. I wonder if some of the problems I'm having surging isn't somewhat related to my qwad limits and warnings. Seems like no metter where I set egt limit 1300 1400 it always defuels at 1200 or so, I know that 1400 is to much but I was just playing with setting and seeing when it would defuel. Thanks for input on that, never crossed my mind it could case that.

Here in iowa we had some cold temps, -20 25 or so windchill about -40. I didn't even bother to start my truck. See a few semis and other diesel truck on the side of the road. Heard a few of them run, sounded like they were missing and running on few cilynders. Had a generator at work was supposed to exisize today and only ran for about 10 seconds and fail, I took fuel filters off put them in heated garage for fe hours and then dumped 8 qts of 911 in tank and added a little in each fuel filter before putting them back. Also I put some hand wormers on filters warped them in paper towels and put a plastic bag over them, because generator fan blowers cold air directly on filters. Fired it up after few cranks started up and ran fine, let it run for a half hour before shutting off. It's 2009 cummins 6.7. Talked with the guy that keeps them filed up and he said they always put blended fuel in generators because you never know how ng they sit, he will be there tomorrow to top the tank of with #1 it has 3/4 of tank now and it's 1000 gal tank. 2 cents. Just noticed my iPad deletes some letters from my sentences.

I've been using 15-40 ams oil with single bypass filter for two years now, takes exactly 12 qts to top of fill mark. I put about 4-5 k on it a year and it always stays at the top. Also noticed that it stays cleaner a lot longer, it may be because of 2 micron bypass. Did my oil test at CAT and the only thing was way high is soot, 60 or so. but it said keep using it and sample at regular intervals, whatever they are. I just did it for the hell of it. Changed it anyway it was 14 months old. But I wonder why you have to change oil every so many miles or every year which ever comes first, what if I don't put many miles on it in a year what goes bad? Oil in a bottles don't go bad on a shelf and if an oil test comes back good then why change it every year?

Nice, will get it as soon as I got extra cash that wife don't know about.

I just got my ev1 few weeks ago, love em. make sure to use a needle valve that is barely cracked open for fuel gauge.I can get 32 psi without qwad, and 45 with, for boost. and fuel stays right at 18 all the time. I believe anything over 35 on boost is a waste with stock turbo.

Don't mind me asking, which one did you get? looks like there are a few to chose from. Also I heard that you can ran SO instead HO for more power, not sure how to make it work, if you need a new ecm or just bigger injectors, just a thought, I now you already ordered it but I'm thinking out loud, if I end up getting one how hard is it to put SO pump for more power for same amount of money. Anyone?

Read this it made me think:think: http://m.bluechipdiesel.com/site/vp44_diagnostics.html?imz_s=jrqvotplrc17p03n98eejir1g4

No that would make since , I got all orings and copper washers to pull my injectors and adjust valves as soon as I check my apps and map sensor voltages, driving with voltmeter on correct wires. If it all checks out then that would be my next step.

Stupid thought, do you have fix a flat in that tire? I think it can be same color. Unless you lose coolant in radiator and overflow than it could be anything:2cents:

I would love to help you but I got same problem only at higher rpms, put timbo apps got a bit better but problem is still there. No codes, but mine misses more with a load on, or its more noticeable. Get some literature from blue chip diesel on how to trouble shoot vp, it sounds like computer on top of vp can go bad without setting codes. That's what I think is going on with mine. Been tracing my problem for over two years now. Good luck:cheers:

I had some diesel in a liter bottle after messing with my airgod last week, this morning i looked at it and it was cloudy looking like it's jelling up. But I know it's summer fuel last time i filed up was almost 2 months ago. it was about 0 this morning, glad I got a car to drive.