joecool911

I used some when my t/c was going out in hopes for a cure. No dice. I figured it was toast anyway, so what's the harm. But for routine use, I also see it as problematic. Maybe a shift kit or upgraded valve body is the direction you should go.

I'm still wondering about trusting the dash temperature gauge. Which brings me to a question. Before I invest in 5 more gauges, what could the ScanGauge monitor. 2-3 gauges and I'd guess I could buy a ScanGauge.

My latest thermostat is a new Dodge $60 standard unit.

Sorry to hear that you're ill. Get well soon!Joe.

That was quick! Thanks! does Michael go out and take pics every time there is a question? That's service!

Looks like your friend is wrestling a full 30 some gallon alligator. On a serious note. Is it necessary to drop the driveline?

I can really hear my fan when it's really hot, but I'm wondering if my fan clutch is running too much all the time. I am over cooling and temps swing between 190 and 175. Cycles more less. How do you diagnose if the clutch is working properly?

Recent thread "bumper mount driving lights". Gives wiring and relay info on running fog or driving lights. while bright truck lights are on driving lights with low beams fog lights. One Switch on or off. Off regular lights, on high beams and driving or low beams with fog.

I've decided to go the route of driving lights and fog lights. Just a thought.

Mine is still really accurate. I'll see how it goes, but leaning towards not replacing it just to save money.

Hey, that's helpful! Thanks! But I'm only 97# tweeker. Well, plus a couple hundred to be honest.

Ok, I'll get all my supplies together and drop the tank. I think with the limited tools I have that should be easier. I bet I can figure out some kind of pully system front and rear to lower and raise. This will also allow for cleaning out the tank of any gunk. I put my hand up on the tank unit area to get an idea of room up there between the bed and tank unit. Got lots of residue up there, so something is leaking a little. I've had no drips under the truck, but its diesely dirty.

I want to install a new draw straw and 1/2" fuel line from the tank. I'm torn between dropping the tank and lifting the bed. Understand that I work in gravel and don't have a lot of jacks/tools. I even saw a YouTube video where a guy cut a hole in his bed to gain access. That's even a consideration. Problem is that the tank unit sits right under a support bar of the bed. But a couple holes on each side of the cross member might be adequate. Having perminant access to the tank unit would be cool. But not sure I have the guts to go that way. So looking for opinions about bed tilting or tank dropping. I can invision a pully system to lower and raise the tank.

I'm gunna need a lot of gauge holes! Looking to install turbo oil temp, digital outdoor temperature, EGT, boost, I have fuel pressure, transmission temp. That's 6 holes. I have a 3 hole pillar. Anyone happy with an above mirror 3 hole set? I don't have the overhead console. I'd ditch my rear view mirror. I think with a gauge pod up there the mirror would obstruct vision fore. Besides, I'm towing 95% of the time and cannot see through my trailer anyway.

Windows XP home addition, Firefox up to date. Not sure about java. Don't recall any java prompts. There's been XP updates as of just a couple days ago. Running zone alarm as my security program. Update it regularly. Not sure about plug ins. Don't care about any of that yahoo stuff, etc. Might try to remove plugins.

I use Firefox as my internet surfing program. For some odd reason, my curser goes blank in the sign in bar along with all the other controls on that line. In order to sign in I have to reply to post and then the sign in box appears. I can sign in there. Just on this computer. The other computer and phone work just fine. I cannot access any of the items in the sign in line or bar. Not even after signing in through the back door as stated above. The line below works fine where the search box is, albums. links, whats new, etc. Internet explorer works as normal, but I don't use it much if I have a choice.Thanks!

We don't get everything we want, when we want it.

I tow 95% of the time. Work and play. So thanks for the info.

Question 1, do I need the converter? Don't live in an area where need to go through emissions inspections. Number 2, do they make the FTE resonators for the stock 3" system? Expansion on question 2, are these bolt on solutions or need to be welded?

Is the muffler the small foreword unit or the big honkin rear unit? Considering the muffler delete kit from Geno's

I had a Napa thermostat 190 and went to a cummins. My temp gauge gets up to 190, but it doesn't hold 190. When I coast it goes down 10-12*. I attribute This to cool temperature. 35-50 mostly lately. It's like it won't get up to operating temp unless you drive. Won't do it idling. I may install a cummins 200* next fall, but spring is right around the corner and will need the summer thermostat again soon.

My mechanic, who does anything I don't do myself is a real advocate of using OEM parts for anything that has bearings or wear surfaces. He's convinced that parts store stuff is all made in china with cheap metal. When he did my front hubs for instance, he used Timken hubs. Water pumps, wheel bearings, and even ball joints he claims do not perform adequately from Napa, CarQuest, etc.. My truck has wander too be calls it memory steer. Takes exaggeratd movement to bring it back from last steer direction. And I get pushed around pretty bad by passing cars/trucks on the freeway while towing my travel trailer. He thinks its ball joints on my truck. Precious owner had them replaced, but the hubs were replaced before too and I know the shop he had it done at uses Napa parts. Apparently there are knerals in the ball joints that get kinda crushed into place to fit tight. He's had nothing but problems with aftermarket ball joints. He has had to replace water pumps in just a few thousand miles from Napa. Not picking on Napa, all aftermarket stores carry the same stuff. There can be a pretty significant difference in price on these parts vs Dodge/Cummins. But he claims its the only way to go. He's fair with labor, so overall cost isn't too bad.

Did you find an "oil temp" gauge? Interested in this concept as well for my truck.

Got my valves adjusted today. Number 6 was tricky to get to and that was the first one to come into phase for adjusting. Quieted down just a bit. Thanks for the tutorial here! Had to start from scratch and figure out which rockers were intake and which exhaust. Going backward turning from the alternator was a bit of a challenge too. Figuring which number was coming up next. I guess you need to go backwards in the firing order too. But I did it without having to go around again by missing one. First time through I'd allow a hour and a half. Next time it'll be a lot faster. I got the go/no go feeler gauge set. 1-2 thousands step that won't go so you know you're right on. Just noticed the updated video that explains using the alternator to crank the motor. Use that video if you are cranking from the alternator! Explains what I had to figure out. Excellent!!!

Not what mine was doing prior to replacement. Others may chime in. Mine would not go into lockup. Web from 3rd to overdrive. Then it would chatter in 3rd and OD when under a low rpm load. Torque converter made it a whole new rig. I got a twin disc billet. Only problem is that it idles now at 12 mph. I take it out of gear at stop lights as I don't like the wear on the discs. Stopping is also takes more effort. But I like the fact that it engages positively. But I would not recommend it if you spend a lot of time city stop and go driving. Like picking someone up at the airport curbside.Not sure rebuilt is worth savings. Consider doing your rear main seal at the same time. Possible new seals on transfer case too. Take it apart once.