KATOOM

Just to be sure I understand..... Your truck will start but only run for a minute or so? You can hear the fuel pump pumping but it doesnt sound the same? How much fuel is in the tank? Do you have any fuel pressure gauges to help understand if you're getting any or the correct fuel pressure? I know you're frustrated and probably in panic mode but be precise in whats going on and explain in detail so we can understand best to help.

Sometimes its difficult for a guy (especially me) to understand whats going on unless I can visually see whats happening. Its a known fact that men prefer the lights on..... Anyways, point being is if you want to understand more about how to properly shift a manual or why shifting one way is better than another, there are some pretty good tutorials on Youtube. Weed out all the worthless junk and look for the ones where a mechanic has something opened up or sitting on a bench illustrating whats going on with the input shaft and counter shaft and clutch. Lots of moving parts in there and understanding what role they're all playing can better help one to know what things to do in order to keep their truck reliable. Dont overlook the videos helping describe what a synchro is either and how it functions as well. Thats very important in RPM matching. There's one video I watched some time ago where a guy actually explained to the viewers what synchro "lock out" was and I thought he did a fantastic job since most people have zero idea what anything like that is. The older I get the more I enjoy learning.....

Your truck should build about 20 psi max with stock power, as thats what the wastegate should be set at. Just by adding the EZ you will see it try to build more but it wont be much as the wastegate purges most of the gains off. After installing the boost elbow your max boost will range between 25-28 psi depending on the truck. If you're not seeing these readings then you more than likely have a boost leak. Most common place are the rubber boost boot clamps are too loose.

leathermaneod, glad you had a chance to pull around some weight, and I'm glad it went well. I'm guessing you had around 7k - 8k combined in tow, depending. notlimah, autos have to be in neutral, manuals clutch in or in neutral, then barely rolling forward you should be able to shift into lo range without any grinding. You cant be moving very fast and not moving can result in everything not aligning easily. Its not the smoothest transition but it shouldn't sound ugly either.

I think both of those responses seem logical. Leverage and angle retention.

Get this converter, and get the Charge Wizard too. Awesome unit and will keep your batteries happy for a long long time. You can find them for a pretty good deal, like in the link posted.

I wanna go riding.....

25 psi is not going to harm anything and is perfectly fine. Probably almost necessary for some if their pump of choice and fuel line plumbing isnt capable is maintaining a lesser overall drop in pressure from idle to WOT. The stock filter is OK too. Not great but ample micron filtration size for the everyday person using decent quality fuel sources. More filtration is always better but whether or not you need it is up to you.

Unfortunately the brake line from the axle to the valve doesn't have the normal brake line fittings so I believe you have to get that specific replacement line and cant use any universal line.

I have goats too and every now and again I get one thats mentally "slower" than the rest who insist on sticking their head through the fencing in attempt to get whatever may or may not be on the other side. Then because their horns stop them from getting back out, they'll sit there and yell as the others leave them behind. Some are so mindless that they're insistent on getting stuck daily, so this is how I deal with their stupidity. Duct tape and pvc works.....

Not to many fuel pumps commonly used in diesel applications over 150(ish) GPH. Typically the available electric pumps are 95/100 or 150-165 GPH. The only reason you dont want more volume is because the engine wont be using it, unless HP is in the stratosphere, and it merely means it will make its way back to the fuel tank more often. That said, the higher volume pumps use more amperage and will require ample fuel line size in order to not place more load on the pump itself.

I've always heard stay away from copper and anything zinc coated in fuel systems. Copper is weak and zinc can flake. I've also heard bio diesel and copper will cause a chemical reaction. I'd just stick with either Teflon SS lines or bio compatible rubber or stainless steel.

I would say its going to depend on who made the pillar, but the holes should be standard. My ISSPRO's fit close but are held in with the above pictured bracket. Cant be tricky to reach in there but not impossible. My old Dakota Digital fit so tight that I just shoved it in the hole and it didnt move.

There's plenty of "what fluid can I run in the NV4500" threads out there on the internet. A Google search will probably give you all the opinions you're looking for.

If the fluid is darker and full of metallic dust then you should have a sample analyzed to see if its soft metals or bearing material.

Ultra Grey or Ultra Black. I "believe" the grey is slightly more oil resistant but not positive as I've used both with positive results. Get a couple cans of brake cleaner, NOT carb cleaner. Brake cleaner is best degreaser as carb cleaner leaves a residue behind. And bring out a roll of paper towels for the job too since towels hold oils in the cloth. Pull the PTO covers, fully draining the fluid. Scoop out the remaining portion of fluid sitting in the sump area of the housing by hand. Look everything over and make sure no large metal chunks come out with the oil. Clean off everything you removed with the brake cleaner. Wire wheels help but wire brushes work too. I like to make sure the bolt threads are free from dirt, oil, and silicone as well. Take the paper towels and cover the gears inside the housing so no degreaser spray gets on them and contaminates the remaining oil. Then with the gears protected, spray cleaner on some paper towels and clean the housing surface. You may need to use a wire brush or razor blade to get off whatever may be stuck on the surface. Just be-careful as a razor will actually scratch the metal surface deep enough to cause problems. Spray in the bolt holes too in order get out any trapped grease. Then with everything sparkly clean, apply a 1/4" bead of silicone on the housing surfaces circling the bolt holes. Dont apply to PTO covers. Give the RTV a few minutes to settle and then bolt on the PTO covers. Snug the bolts down evenly and then come back and tighten them in a star pattern. The RTV will or should squish out evenly. Let it sit overnight and then refill. Should have ZERO leaks. Filters are kinda goofy as there's no oil pressure moving oil through the filter. I instead got me a couple more rare earth Neodymium magnets available at the hardware store and placed them in the PTO covers. More magnets to hold any metallic debris.

Starting in '01.5 Dodge fazed out some add on's, like underhood insulation, fender liners, rear cup holders, etc..... If the assembly line had them then the truck was equipped but if they ran out then no mas.

I appreciate that but the angle of the arm is what I'm looking for conformation on. On these trucks, at what position is the proportioning valve fully open?

For all you guys who've disconnected and tied up the rod or valve lever, can you take a picture and show me what you did or how its positioned? I'm going to try removing the rod from the axle and see if it helps braking power but I'm not exactly sure at what point the proportioning valve is "fully open". Thanks.

Here's the TSB if anyone's interested. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/05-04-98.htm

So you have to sit there and let it "automatically" start back up on its own?????

Please keep me posted as to how this works for you. I've considered trying this just for sake of curiosity but since my brakes work really well, its not something I think about every day. But.....it would be interesting to see if it did anything.

I'm not sure I like the part where you have to lift logs on to the splitter. My splitter has a ram which pivots and stands on end. I simply roll the rounds over to it and set them under the wedge. I'm generally muscling large rounds too so having to lift them up on the ram would be kind of a pain.

The list of people allowed to borrow my stuff is very short.....and if you aint blood related then you're not on it. Got tired of fixing something someone borrowed and returned damaged.

I've always made sure everything is clean and freely moving and properly fitting. Then adjust out the star so that the drum barely slips over the shoes. Then adjust the star out some more so that when spinning the drum by hand I can barely hear a slight contact of shoes to drum surface. You dont want to feel any drag in that contact either. When using the brakes in reverse the stars are supposed to click a notch as long as there's enough room for that much automatic adjustment. Problem is the stars quickly stop moving from corrosion or dirt, so use some anti-seize on the threads.