Buzzinhalfdozen

After burning out 3 lift pumps and changing out 6 gelled fuel filters in less than two weeks last winter I rebuilt the fuel system from the tank to vp. I have to drive about 80 miles to find diesel fuel that doesn't resemble pond scum...not real cost effective. I got rid of the stock housing since it was starting to leak any ways and now have big screw on filters on the frame rail (wix 33528 and 33405) I think these are the same size that will screw onto a fass or airdog system but there sure are a lot of options out there. Hoping to narrow down my option. Thanks

Well that tsb makes me think twice about wix. If it's slow at work tonight I'll read through the tdr article. Does any one have the recommended fleetguard f/f and w/s with a 1"x 14 mounting hole. Time to start stocking up for fuel gelling season.

I've considered ordering some fleetguards but i can get wix locally and I can't really complain about the results I've gotten so far. A while back there was a discussion on here about extended oil changes and I seem to remember someone running 20K on an oil filter w/o bypass filtration...I think it was a Donaldson. Hard to say memory gets a little fuzzy this time of day. If that sounds right or someone has a part number chime in because I would be interested in something like that.

I don't remember the number but it's a standard wix filter

Just in case any one is wondering I changed the oil filter at 7k with the first UOA and I haven't added any oil since before the 12k sample was taken. Very pleased the ol' girl is holding up this well.

I'm actually in the middle of replacing my rockers and corners right now. My parts came from mills supply, they're made in Taiwan (good luck finding parts that aren't) but seem to fit/weld nicely. Get a good spot weld cutter and it will make your life a lot easier. Some careful measuring, a little patience and a 12 pack and it actually went pretty well.

Did you decide what filter to go with?

As far as I know the case has never been out but a lot could have happened in the 10 years I didn't own it.

I can't imagine this is a common problem but I thought I would share my story. I developed a driveline vibration at cruising speed so on my first day off I pulled it in the garage and sure enough the U joint by the rear axle was bad. When I checked the other joint and it was fine, but I happened to push up on the driveshaft and when I did the whole transfer case moved up and down with it! Upon further inspection two studs that hold the t-case to the trans were gone and all but one were backed way out. Also because the one stud was tight the t-case pivoted off of it and put a pretty good crack in my trans tailhousing. It's not leaking and I got everything tightened up with some new studs and loctite everything seems fine for nowWeird part is I've used my 4wd and checked the t-case fluid recently and never noticed anything off. I'm pretty religious about maintenance and usually anything off about my truck doesn't slip by me...very frustrating. Again probably not a common problem but its something worth looking at.

So if it doesn't really engage any better than the vacuum disconnect maybe I'll look into just engaging it solid like moparman did. I'm getting pretty sick of having to rock the truck back and forth trying to get it engaged after I get stuck. Thanks guys

Is anyone using a front axle disconnect that gets rid of the vacuum actuator like the kit from 4x4 posi-lock? Just looking for some feedback before I buy. Thanks

Ya I know I'm the same way. That's why I'm leaving it alone for now, but it would be a fun experiment if time and money want a factor

Thanks for the input guys. So I'm thinking injectors/programmer and seeing how long the stock Trans. with 180k on it will last.

Hello all, I recently replaced my stock turbo because i noticed it was leaking some oil by and it had some end play. It just so happens I came into a sweet deal on a slightly used BD super B. This turbo is for a 2003 cummins but the only difference I could find for install was changing the exhaust downpipe. So the problem is now I'm down about 2-3 mpg. There is a noticable power gain and broader torque curve but peak power seems to be at about the same RPM as it was before. I am not having much luck finding specs. for this turbo but everything I've read says its not much bigger than stock other than the exhaust housing is quite a bit larger. Any input would be appreciated on how to get my MPG back.