Buzzinhalfdozen

I've ordered quite a few parts from them and overall I'm satisfied. Good prices and fast shipping. My last experience left a bad taste in my mouth though. Ordered a high quality transfer case motor for my wife's suburban and it didn't work, which I understand isn't their fault. So I went through the exchange process with them which took a couple weeks. The second one I got didn't work and had had greasy finger prints all over it, so it was obviously a returned item. I ended up getting the exact same part from the local parts store for a lot more money and it works great.

2wd or 4wd?

They must use some sort of anti-dodge salt on the roads up here. I see a lot of second gens in my area that look like this. I don't think the previous owner ever washed it which didn't help.

If you're going from a base model interior to Laramie a few things i can think of are power seats and different radio/speakers. Just thinking loud here but the 99 has rear wheel ABS and I believe the 01 would be 4 wheel ABS. Not sure if the the brake switch or cruise control wiring would be different. Also interested in how the regular to extended cab swap is going to work.

Looks like it was time well spent cleaning up all the wiring. I have a little OCD panic attack every time I look at the mess of wires under my hood.

The cords of the tire are starting to separate and the tire isn't symmetrical anymore. I actually used to see this quite often on brand new tires. Four new tires and it would pull hard one way.

I knew I was on to something.

The joy of owning old rigs. All the little things you would never think about start wearing out.

51607

Another thought. I put reman calipers on a car recently and while bleeding them I got a good shot of brown goo. Popped the piston out and the bottom half of the caliper bore was rusted out like it had been sitting for a while with moisture in it. So that shiny "new" part might not be any better than what you're taking off.

I know all about rust

Dont forget about the brake hoses. The liner will break down/swell up which restricts flow and give the illusion of a sticky caliper.

Ya I probably spent 1-2 hours taking the first one off. Could probably do it in half hour now that I know the process. Getting it set back in place didn't take long but the real struggle was trying to get the doors fenders and hood to line up since I had them all off and they were from a different truck. If your just doing one fender it shouldn't be nearly as bad.

Fender less pics

You pretty much got everything. I just unbolted the abs/fuse box and tied it up with a bungee. Snake the headlight wiring out of the way as much as you can, mine got damages when the fender dropped unexpectedly. Big bracket by the hood hinges has to come off. There is sneaky bolt that took me a little while to find. It's underneath in the wheel well about level with the top of the tire. There are a lot more bolts in the fender than I was expecting so take your time.

I have a Dodge Direct replacement and i would not recommend it. The first one mounted in the stock location lasted about 10K miles. Second one is mounted on the frame and after 15k miles it is starting to leak fuel out of the motor so its days are limited. I will be ordering a FASS system soon.

It's a blistering 68* and partly cloudy here in northern MN.

I've had this same struggle for years! I had no idea this amazing cup holder existed. Ordering one now.

That's a whole lot of bad luck followed by a whole lot of good luck! Better pay it forward to keep that good karma coming your way.

So TFaoro are you going to play guinea pig and order some?

Trying to get get my old Ford dump truck running and it flooded out bad. Apparently some raw fuel settled in the muffler. My ears are still ringing.

What happens to an all wheel drive Jeep transfer case when a front U joint locks up at 60mph.

So are these starters getting fried from internal issues or from oil and grime getting in them?

Also if you find a tech you like ask to have work scheduled so he can work on it. Makes the tech feel good and again less likely to cut corners.

If the tech isn't willing to talk to you that's a huge red flag to me. I always took the time to bring people back and show them what the problem was and how I came to that conclusion. If the front counter won't let you in the shop there's a good chance the tech is a knuckle dragger and you don't want him working on your car. Ask the tech a few intelligent questions. If they know you're not an idiot they'll be less likely to cut corners. Don't expect to get straight answers out of a salesman or service writer, they typically have no idea about what's going on with your car.