Buzzinhalfdozen

I have run T6 out to nearly 20k miles with UOAs to back it up. Short trips, heavy towing, blazing hot summers and deadly cold winters. But I think I've had my fun with extended OCIs and will probably be changing it around 12k now.

I never understood why there's not a drain plug on all differentials. Seems like Toyota is one of the few smart enough to put one there. I can't imagine adding one would cause any structural issues but maybe a stress fracture could start there if you really abuse it. I know all the factory drains I've seen have a raised shoulder surrounding the plug but I assume that's more to prevent the plug from getting ripped off than added structural support. I'd go smallish on the hole like 1/4" pipe thread. If your willing to play guinea pig I say go for it.

I have pretty much given up on buying anything that's foreign made. Take a look into the state of this nations steel industry and you'll understand part of my reasoning. Think twice about your purchases and where they come from. Ra Ra Ra...Merica Anyhow, here is a picture of my well worn American made tires from 2009. Some dryrot yes but no big cracks.

Waiting patiently. I have a bit of a knob/switch fetish in my truck so I'm always happy to add another one.

Picked up this sweet unit at a garage sale for $10. Older than me but it works great and gets incredibly hot. Not real helpful I know but you asked.

Is that the only crack you can find? It kind of looks more like a slice than a crack.

I wish I would have taken pictures of all the wierd stuff I saw when I was wrenching.

I was running 75-140 and mopar friction modifier without issues for about 15k miles. Then recently I was coming home from a 100 mile run with a loaded car trailer and it started chattering/binding really bad on tighter corners. Sounded like bowling balls rolling around and slamming into the bedside. Took the rear end apart expecting the worst but everything was perfect.... So threw it back together with some cheap 80-90 I had laying around and it's been fine ever since.

As far as wasteful government spending goes that's just a drop in the bucket.

Yes should have sent in the block mounted one....that sucks

???????? Better start mixing those drinks a little lighter lol

Well I don't believe oil filter quality/brand has anything to do with this problem. I agree you should send in an oil analysis and check the starting oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. The thing that's puzzling me is how in the heck is the oil filter siphoning itself half empty after shutdown. If that is the case I can see your oil pressure taking longer to come up. The filter does sit higher than the oil pan so is it possible the crank case is under a slight vacuum after shutting down and siphoning oil out of the filter? My Friday night somewhat beer injected brain can't come up with any better answers.

Easy but BORING! I say go for the van project, preferably a 70s era dodge panel van. You'll definitely have to massage the firewall and customize the doghouse. Beef up the suspension and frame. Probably custom radiator/intercooler. That's the short list but I think it would be a pretty cool project.

Nice find. I always forget about pawn shops for stuff like that

I bought a cheapo 1/2" drill with a chuck from menards a few years ago. Tool shop is the brand, I'd say it was an ok drill. The chuck didn't operate all that smooth and if I was drilling thicker steel the smoke would start coming out. Actually the last time i was using it I saw smoke so I just held it wide open until it was billowing smoke and locked up. That stink lingered in the garage for a few days. I'm sure for lighter use it would be just fine.

I remember my big shiny new toolbox getting small in a hurry. Don't get rid of the other boxes yet, I guarantee you'll have them filled back up again.

Can't really go wrong with amsoil they make a great product I just never really cared for the price. I have run standard Rotella and the T6 synthetic with good results. It's available locally and is fairly inexpensive.

^^^^ I've used this technique many times but here in the rust belt sometimes you don't get that lucky.

Tuna fork? I've always called it a pickle fork. Hmmm now I want a sandwich.

Distance to Walmart- 80 miles Distance to town (pop. 2,000)- 12 miles Distance to the big city- 70 miles Distance to work- 12.5 miles My CJ-4 oil does good even with lots of short trips.

Ugly ford ugly bumper! I even spoiled it and shot some spray foam in the holes that used to cab corners to try and keep the mice out.

New scrap metal bumper almost done on the trusty rusty plow rig. Might be ugly but it only cost me some time and welding rod.

I've moved snow with many different pieces of equipment. Snowblower, 4 wheeler, open cab tractor, lawn tractor, plow truck. With a 4 wheeler you have to think ahead early in the season where your putting the snow because they can't stack it very high and you can easily box yourself in. You will also be out there for hours doing a 3 mile driveway on a wheeler. My vote would be plow truck, it's pretty nice being in a heated cab with radio and a cup of coffee. A smaller tractor with a blade/bucket attachment is a good option too because they can be used year round but can be a royal pain when you get stuck. (Notice I said WHEN and not IF you get stuck) I prefer to have a dedicated plow rig I can leave at home so I'm not beating the crap out of my daily driver but that's just me.

If the truck dies when you pull the alternator fuse it probably means your batteries are toast. It should run for quite a while with out an alt. Did you reset the apps after you had the batteries disconnected? If not this can cause some drive ability issues.

Ouch that really sucks.