Buzzinhalfdozen

Did it crank over for longer than normal after it had been sitting for a while?

Did you actually see and verify the alignment specs after all the new front end parts and the fender bender? This style of steering isn't that common on an alignment rack and can be a bit tricky to get dialed in if the tech hasn't done a lot of them. Not questioning anyone's work just a thought. The reason I ask is because when I was a mechanic I saw more than a few old dodges where the person had spent thousands replacing tires and every steering component chasing a death wobble. Then I tell them it's a bent control arm or bad bushing. The bushings can be very deceiving and sometimes you can only tell by removing the arm and seeing if the center hole is ovaled out. I actually had this exact same problem on my own rig, chased it for months.

Hmmm might be time to take a good look at the control arm bushings if it's getting death wobble. I've also seen dried up front axle u joints cause weird driveability issues. Also seeing as you've had basically the whole drivetrain out somewhat recently might not be a bad idea to put a wrench on all the nuts and bolts. Stuff can loosen up, I know I almost had a transfer case fall off once.

I'm guessing the vibration is coming from the back of the the truck?

You sure are tough on the deer population!

I've had a Borgeson steering box and shaft for a few years now. For how much I paid for them I'm really not impressed. Having a little quicker turning ratio is nice but other than that it really made no difference how the truck drove. I would cancel your order and give Ryan at blue top steering gears a call.

Paid 2.50 yesterday in Lakota, ND

Have you tried verifying those readings with a different gauge? What do you have for a fuel pickup in the tank? If it's factory it's possible the screen is getting plugged.

I would say a short to power somewhere after the neutral safety switch. Pull all the wire loom and tape off the trailer wiring and inspect all the wires closely especially if it's not factory.

I think I just found my new ring tone.

If it has the original steering box and if it hasn't seen periodic adjustments, more than likely the box is getting worn. Take a real hard look at the control arm bushings because they can be deceiving. Jack it up and move them every direction with a pry bar looking for excessive movement I know I've been fooled more than once. Lastly have the alignment shop max out the caster adjustments. You should be able the get 6-7 degrees out of it. There is a special tool involved for caster adjustments on a 2wd that not every shop has.

I went from stock to 100hp DAP injectors and as far as i can tell mileage and EGTs have pretty much stayed the same. Odd that your having poor results with only a 60hp.

Well that sounds expensive. How many hours on it?

You can't attach a photo because I believe that is a paid member option. If you don't have wires coming off the front wheel bearings than it is rear wheel ABS only. I know when the rear sensor went out on my 99 I got both brake lights but the speedometer also quit working.

You have to consider that you can really only move as much fuel as the most restrictive part of the system will allow. Take a breath through a drinking straw. Now tape a piece of 1/2" hose to the straw and see if it's any easier to breath.

Since Google doesn't want to answer my question maybe you can. Can I buy a sleeve separately and use a stock cummins seal? In other words is the ID of seal on the seal/sleeve combo slightly bigger to fit over the sleeve?

I agree with the above statements. It sounds like a combination of dirty injectors and a slow spooling turbo. I recently installed 100hp injectors from DAP and with my slightly larger than stock turbo I really have to try to make smoke. Runs surprisingly clean and cool. I would start with injectors since they are cheaper than a turbo.

Hey I'll take a free fix any day. Hopefully that's all it was.

Wow! Talk about patience and skills. So this bumper that's going on around Christmas, are you buying or building? I've been looking at a lot of bumpers but can't find one I really like.

Just another example of quality Chinese manufacturing. I was pulling on a brand new HF wrench when the box end actually sheared off due to bad casting. Of course when it broke I caught my wrist on the razor sharp edge of a poorly placed hose clamp. Other mechanic came back from lunch to blood everywhere and a bunch of wrenches in the garbage can

I will say this site WAY better than most forums I've seen as far as negativity and bashing goes. But it's inevitable no matter what site your on someone will think you're wrong. I'm not referring to any specific situations but it usually seems to be someone's ego getting in the way of the facts.

I had a short affair with a mid 80s 318i. Fun car and super easy to work on but holy crap was that thing slow. It had been sitting for years and the mice had their way with the wiring, I would chase down one problem then the next day something else would go crazy. Cool paint scheme but I seem to remember a time when WW2 bombers and Germans didn't really get along lol.

Yes well understood I have a few yota axles sitting in the weeds right now. I guess you could say a convenience stemming from a necessity. Just saying there's no reason every manufacturer couldn't put a drain plug on the diff.

Could you elaborate on this because pipe thread is more or less self sealing and an improperly welded bung can also leak. Are you saying don't pipe thread structure or don't thread structure? I was leaning towards threading it because welding cast iron overhead can be a real bugger.