Buzzinhalfdozen

Please do. You have my interest.

If you want to extend your oil changes a bypass system is a good idea. If your sticking to regular oil changes I say spend the money elsewhere. Extra filtration is never going to hurt but there's also lots of high mileage engines out there without it. If you need traction bars or not I think depends a lot on your driving style, but again not going to hurt any thing to have them.

It's been a while since I've had one apart, where did that spring come from?

Dark confined spaces. A few years ago I was hard face welding inside a fan at work. Basically a 30' paddle wheel inside a housing with about 18" of clearance to crawl on top of it and work. Imagine overhead welding inside a 120 degree steel coffin... So I had squeezed my way to the top of this fan wheel welding away and I dropped a piece of steel plate. It bounced 30' down and severed the extension cord running my work light. Pitch black now. I dug the flashlight out of my pocket and of course dropped that before I could turn it on. So long story short I managed to shimmy down from the sea of jagged metal and certain death in complete darkness. Crawl down a tunnel and out the narrow hatch cover. Then go find the guy who was supposed to be standing by in case of trouble and scream at him. Ever since then I've been a little gun shy about squeezing into small dark death traps

I'm convinced mine's a female. It's sweet to me most of the time and about once a month the fangs come out it hates me for a few days until I throw handfuls of cash at it.

It's coming in the garage this afternoon for a good scrub down. In my area if it only snows a few inches they will salt sand the highways and not plow. Never used to be that way. Maybe trying to save wear on the plows or pavement? Sure does make for a sloppy mess though.

Dirty girl

I've had ok results with cheaper parts store guns. I have a nice Lincoln gun now.

Sounds like low fuel pressure to me. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? You should at least rig up a temporary fuel pressure gauge so you can see what's going on when it acts up.

The handy mans secret weapon

I thought but doing something like this a few years ago when I was having a lot of gelling issues. The way I look at it is you'll have nice warm fuel to start the engine but the 30 gallons of frozen goo in your tank will cancel that out in short order. Unless you got something like this http://www.arctic-fox.com/ But $$$$$$ I went with these and haven't gelled a filter since: http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/fuelfilterheater.php

Looks painful. There's gotta be a good story behind this.

They say it could be *54 warmer by tomorrow. Might bust out the tiki torches and sandals.

I also take great pride in the cleanliness of my engines The plow truck sees no love. Mike sit down before looking at the picture, you might get a panic attack.

Passenger side fire wall you'll see two 3/4" hoses sticking out. Coolant goes in one side and out the other. Follow those hoses to where they connect to the block and take them off there. Or you can take them off right at the core and put a separate length of hose on each nipple just for flushing purposes. Flush it both ways, you can either stick a skinny nozzle in the heater hose or rig up some sort of connector. Be warned that I have seen cores start leaking after doing this if they were really corroded.

It is buried in the dash pretty much right above the blower motor. You can flush it by taking the hoses off under the hood and flushing through it with a garden hose.

My beast of a camper is still waiting patiently in the snowbank. Actually looking forward to doing this.

I'd say the first thing to do is check the coolant level and temperature of the heater core hoses located on the passenger side firewall. They should be about the same temp with the blower motor off and the engine running. Not real likely the heater core plugged over night but possible. It also could be a blend door issue. Turn the temp knob from cold to hot a few times, you should hear/feel if the door moves. I think there's an article on blend door repairs.

Have you tried wet sanding it?

If you can secure something to a trailer with ratchet straps I don't see any reason why you couldn't secure a camper. I guess they could eventually rot if left out in the elements to long? I've ordered a few things from here, nice stuff. https://www.ratchetstraps.com/home/

Don't forget to apply some Thompsons wood sealer yearly to keep that factory fresh look.

Yet another reason I hate my iPhone.

If it was mine I would get power from one of the accessories, key on power. Run that to a switch in the cab, then run it to the relay trigger. That way the pump will shut off when the key is off but you can still control it if you have the key on. Only downside is if you crash and the engine dies the pump will continue to run.