Buzzinhalfdozen

My free rubber mat. Piece of used conveyor belt from work. I might make another one that fits tighter to the wheel wells.

Cold hearted humor I know but it was too easy to pass up. Best of luck with the house and vehicle repairs.

When it rains it pours. Sounds like it's time to start over and just replace all the vacuum lines.

I think the majority vote here is for non greaseable joints.

Mine doesn't. I have to use one of those metal clip things that hooks around the belt to lock it.

If I'm reading that correctly the rotational play in the axles and driveshaft sounds like backlash between the ring and pinion gears. Totally normal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016DU1FMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1466965456&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wix+24770&dpPl=1&dpID=41bErVqZ-CL&ref=plSrch I'm using this filter base bolted to the frame for a pre filter/water seperator. Easy to plumb in and tons of filter options.

I see used or leftover metal roofing for sale all the time on CL for cheap. If it lasts 30-40 years on a roof should still last a long time underground.

I was in a similar situation years ago. Hit a doe and when I got out to investigate there were two very underdeveloped fawns kicking around in the dirt. I made the decision to put them out of their misery.

How are you guys getting that accurate a number off the dash gauge? I see under 190* or over 190*

I use brake clean. Ever notice that most starting fluid says "upper cylinder lubricant" on it? Makes me think it might leave an oil residue

Nothing to worry about I spent most of last summer with no front shaft.

Yes, to avoid a code and defueling at 20 something psi.

Looking good. Here's another idea for mounting a switch. I just made a bracket but you could probably buy something similar. I also didn't feel bad about drilling holes since the PO already added vent holes...

You make some good points, those bearings take a pounding I'm actually surprised they last as long as they do. I just wonder how much dirt the seals are letting in because after 200k miles they're probably getting weak. This is where adding some grease could help. "The solution to pollution is dilution"

That sounds like a fun afternoon.

I've replaced a lot of wheel bearings on early 2000's Chevys for this very issue.

With that tall of a tire and only 36psi I'd be concerned with side wall flex in the corners.

Are the tires load range E?

I've snapped plenty of axle shafts on my trail rig, or broke the ears off the yoke, but the cheapo greaseable joint is just fine. Now when I replace axle joints on my pickup, I'll pony up for the sealed spicers since they are a pain to replace and grease. Driveshaft U joints I get the cheaper ones,easy to replace and service.

A greaseable and a non greaseable joint both made by precision. Both have the exact same seal and both are drilled all the way through.

At 10' of wire you can run up to 30 amps with 10 gauge wire. That would be more than adequate for a DDRP. I agree with the previous comments you should put the lift pump on a relay to take the load off the ECM.

I have so many cat licking comments...Don't know if I can contain myself.

Only the cab has bushings the box is bolted right to the frame.

The more important question is where did the materials for that joint come from? So it should really say "Assembled in Germany/China". German or Japanese products are typically higher quality than a lot of countries but if it's "made" somewhere with cheap Chinese material...