Buzzinhalfdozen

Ya I assumed it had something to do with crossover removal but there's really no way it would help. Screwdriver worked just fine though.

Just installed DAP injectors yesterday. They came with the copper washers, injector body O rings, crossover O rings and a 1/2"ish nut that I'm not real sure what I was supposed to do with.

Bridgestone insignia or Firestone fr710. I have wore out a few sets of both and both did well in all weather. I was suprised how well the Bridgestones do in the snow.

Rotella T6 5w-40 since 2010ish. MY oil samples say its been holding up very nicely.

If your using your phone make sure you switch to the full version of the site.

I agree with almost everything stated above. I have been using interstate lead acid batteries for years and have had very little trouble with them. No idea who actually makes them.

I also have a pretty good understanding of fluid dynamics. Flow is speed. Yes but I can have a 24" pipe at 10,000gpm then choke it down to .150 and then what is your flow and speed. Yes this will will create a lot of heat due to friction but it's still not flowing 10,000gpm.

Well it's possible that other things besides under hood temps are killing them....

My point exactly. You would need a whole lot of pressure to get that little hole to return 150gph.

Something else to consider. The only way to get your pump to move 150gph, or 32 gallons in 12.8 minutes, would be to run a 1/2" line straight from the discharge side of the pump back to the tank. There's no way it can circulate that much fuel through the small hole in the overflow valve. This is where we get pressure from. Now I haven't pulled the return line off to see how much it will flow but I bet it isn't 2.5 gallons per minute.

I know fenders from a 95 will fit on a 99 no problem. The front bumper is the same except the mounting brackets were a little different. My 99 brackets looked like they would bolt right on the 95 bumper but I never did try.

If that doesn't work I usually just turn the radio up louder.

Does it change at when you turn the steering wheel? I've heard some weird noises from steering columns. Also just thinking out loud, is there a constant vacuum source under the dash? Maybe a small leak that's causing a squel when you get on it. Little far fetched but it's worth a shot.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge and does it do anything funny when this happens? Also try resetting the APPS. The procedure is in the article section of this site. If that doesn't solve it unhook the edge and see if that helps.

Wierd that it always seems to just one cup that dries out on a joint. I've replaced a lot that look just like that.

Ok I answered my own question. Here's a pretty good read for any one interested. http://www.stealth316.com/2-breakin.htm

Don't all new cars come factory filled with synthetic now? Probably 99% of them don't get run through any extended break in process, just driven off the dealer lot with 2 miles on them and driven normally. Just an observation.

I've replaced 30 year old domestic pipe with foreign pipe and guess what had a hole worn in it within 2 years...

Good to hear, I'd rather give money to Russia than China right now. Don't mean to de-rail this thread but the USA steel industry along with any other type of mining is looking pretty dismal right now. Federal government seems to be going to war with the blue collar worker.

Are you in the oil industry? Chinese steel dumping is getting dangerously close to getting me laid off. Maybe you could convince your purchasing department to buy some made in USA pipe??

I wouldn't worry about the frame. Mine looks like that if not worse and it passes the chipping hammer test, still very solid. Some things to look at and expect to replace. Rear spring shackles (mine were see through) Rear leaf springs if doing shackles because those bolts aren't coming out. U bolts rust through at the mounting plate. The bolts holding your trailer hitch on, mine were scary thin. This stuff will be at least $500.

Ok thanks for the ideas. The crusty spots actually cleaned up and blended in a lot better than I expected. Now hopefully the sealer will blend in also.

So I picked up a set of Ford Alcoa wheels recently and overall I'd say they are in nice shape. Clear coat is nice and no big scratches. They aren't perfect though and have a few spots where the white corrosion is coming through. I don't really want to strip the wheels completely right now so I'm looking to spot treat these areas to prevent it from spreading. So what to do? My thoughts were to wet sand these spots out with real fine steel wool and seal them. Not real sure what to seal them with or if there's a better process. I know there's plenty of neat freaks on here that know a thing or two about keeping things shiny.

Talk about having your world turned upside down.... Best of luck to you Mike be safe.

I don't remember moving much of anything to get access. It did make the steering wheel stiff at first but that was very short lived.