Buzzinhalfdozen

Hijack! So what's it take to covert from rear drums to disk brakes? Are 2nd gen backing played rotors and calipers/brackets a direct bolt on?

My buddy has weatherTech and they seem like nice quality. I just ordered a set from Lund they were less expensive so I hope they won't be "cheap". As far as I know they are held on by that double sided foam tape stuff.

Sounds like air getting into the system. When the coolant temp started rising were you climbing a grade or normal flat driving?

Went to Menards to buy supplies to build an 8x10 wall, walked out with $700 less dollars... Also good luck with your grass I've given up on mine. I am a pro at growing dandelions though.

So whats it take to get it that shiny?

I thought legal weight was when it starts spilling over the top of the trailer.

Another thing to consider is if the connector is badly corroded that green fuzz can creep up the wires and no amount cleaning will help.

I've brought a lot of that ND mud home with me stuck in the fenderwells....bumpers, skid plates. Last time I was out there I think the truck came home a couple hundred pounds heavier. I've also been the victim of those car swallowing mud/sink holes that form on a otherwise pretty decent gravel road. That made for a long walk to find help.

I've always kept the truck and trailer connectors gooped with dielectric grease and never had a connection issue or had to clean them in 5 years. The 7 pin in the trailer doesn't have a cover either. The only problem is it can collect dirt so I just blow it out with my air compressor and re-grease.

I replaced mine a few weeks ago with a cheapo from the local parts store and it does the same thing. Fully engaged all the time. I'm going to warrannty it before winter rolls around but I guess stuck "on" is better than being stuck "off"

So what are the plans while you're in there? Just freshen it up with stock parts or ???

Ok thanks it sound like they're worth a shot.

That's great tread life but how's the traction?

I'm actually not that surprised the seal ate the shaft that much especially if the motor was throwing some fine dust at it. It just acts as a high speed sanding disk. In a rubber vs. metal situation like this, rubber wins. On an industrial scale I've seen rubber seals and conveyor belts cut through some pretty impressive stuff.

Stay away from Bridgestone dueler Revos. If you spend any time in the snow or even slightly wet pavement you'll probably get stuck. I'm running Firestone Transforce AT now and I'd say they're a pretty good all around tire. They're fairly inexpensive and perform well but not great. I have read a lot of good reviews about the cooper discover, I think those will be my next set of tires.

I've been there before, sometime "friends"are hard to come by. Best of luck and keep us updated.

Sneaking up on 200k and never been touched other than regular maintenance. I should have some go fast goodies in the mail soon so it'll be getting redone in the next few months.

I started doing UOA's when I switched my truck over to synthetic oil because I wanted to know how it was performing. The synthetic vs standard oil debate can and has been debated at great length so I won't get into that. My main reasons for switching A. I wanted an oil I could run year round in the huge ambient air temperature changes my pickup is exposed to. (-30 to 100 deg.) Yes I know others run 15w-40 in the same temps but I didn't like how long it took for my oil pressure gauge to come up when it's cold out. B. I have enough vehicles to change oil on so if I can avoid draining one of them great! C. I like to base my decisions on cold hard facts not on what others see as "best practice" I'm sneaking up on 20k miles on this oil change.

Do you just have a standard parts store steering stabilizer or is there a better option?

I'm not sure what model but he told me it was a 500hp 4wd John Deere.

Have you done any engine work lately? What kind of oil are you running?

My stepdad sent me this picture from work. I'm not sure what failed but it was only 100k for a replacement engine. Yes that is a pile of metal in the oil pan.

Just remember it's easier to ask for forgiveness than permission. I lost an uphill, rolling onto the highway race to a 7.3 today. Now my pride and wallet need to agree on a programmer or new injectors first.

I like a cummins swap just as much as anyone but I've seen this one done quite a few times and it bothers me. I know the 6.0 has some issues but for the time and money spent to do this swap you can have a very reliable bullet proofed 6.0. I'm not a powerstroke lover by any means but to to swap out for like 180 hp seems kinda silly.

Was the passenger side battery the one that originally failed?