uber racing

Here's what were pulli'n

With the short bead it's tough to find a unit that isn't 18-24" deep. the unit I had built was 12" just for this reason. It's worked very well this past summer.

I need a bit of info. I had the High idle flash TSB originally done at the dealer, and worked fine. ( also hav high idle fooler) I was running the S03 with REVO S03V126CDR12A.7z on standard settings and caTcher on SW#3. Again High Idle worked fine. I made an update to SW#5 but decided to go back to #3. After doing this the High Idle feature quit working? I reflashed my SO3 with SmtEV1_22D207A.7z and the feature started working again on the stock setting. When I added in the caTacher SW#3 the high idle feature stopped working again? Is this normal, or is my file corrupt?

I'm going to throw this one out. Mine does the same thing. If I start it up warm up a bit and go to drive stalls. But if I put it in reverse first it will pull down a bit but not stall. then if I go to Drive after that it's all good......

I just went through the ABS sensor thing. It was bad wheel bearings. Found out the hard way on the side of the road in Wyoming on the way back to MI. Jack the front up and check for excessive play in the hub, and or bearing noise from the hub. Once the bearing was replaced ABS was fine. (bearing came with new sensor as well).

Just finished installing my custom built auxiliary fuel tank in the bed of my truck. I didn't like the cost or the size's of most of the units I've seen. Wanted something that would fit under the rails and not take up too much bed space. A buddy of mine own a fab shop and makes some tanks for some Bio guys. What we came up with was a aluminum tank made form .100" sheet. Measures 48"W x 17"H x 12"L. capacity is a reasonable 41 gal. Got the rollover valve from Jegs, and picked up an aluminum vented filler neck and cap assembly from an aircraft supply house I found on-line. We installed two internal baffle plates to control fuel slosh. we also welded on an external tray and tabs to hold my 6 gal water / meth tank. I have a filter pump from a Cat, but haven't installed it yet. I'm currently just using a gravity feed kit from RDS. I was actually suprised on how quickly the gravity feed with a 5/16" line will fill the main tank. It filled a 1/4 tank in about 15min of driving. I'll have some pics of the build and install in a few days.

I have a question about indexing. Or loosing index. My system was working fine. When I changed out my injectors I broke the vacuum line running along the fire wall. Of course the system defaulted to Defrost mode. I repaired the line but since then If I ran the fan above the second position it would go to defrost???? Now again it's reverted to the defrost only mode. So wold you think this is an indexing problem? If so how do you re-index??

I was going to but I figured there was pic's in the link. If I make any adjustments I'll take some. ---------- Post added 04-26-2010 at 07:16 PM ---------- Previous post was 04-25-2010 at 09:52 PM ---------- got a chance to put some miles (about 70) on the new foam today. I may still have a bit of adjusting to do but I got to tell ya all the spine jarring bumps from crap roads is gone! None of the shock form sharp bumps is being transmitted up through the driver. Deffinately was worth the little bit of time it took!

Well my drivers seat was killing my hip due to the foam starting to break down. I did some reading http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-non-powertrain/129591-front-seat-foam-3.html on refoaming parts of your seat. I had the typical left bolster sagging. Pulling the cover off was pretty easy. In doing so I also found out why my heated seat isn't working. Broken wire and was burning the seat foam! I removed the foam from the base. and glued some burlap to the bottom to give some support to where the springs were starting to cut the foam. I also re-glued the Left side bolster back to the main cushion since it was starting to separate. I then took some 1" foam and built both hip bolsters up. Flipping the cushion over I cut a piece of 2" foam to fit the recess of the frame area. I then spray glued some burlap to the 2" foam to give it some strength and resistance from the seat springs cutting through it. Took a little effort the get the cover back on but not too difficult. The seat is a bit more Poofy than before, but will settle in with use. Well have to see how this feels with some miles on it. If I don't like it I'll make some more adjustments.

I'm running a MBRP on mine. I like it very much. Not too loud but as described by some of my Power Storke friends " Your truck sounds Evil"

I've never bought a VP44 from JKidd, but I have delt with him before. I can say he's good to deal with.

It will work, but personally I'd want more. At least a FASS HPFP95 for Raptor. You can always add better filters yourself than the AD or full FASS systems. Also look at the MITUSA or Glaicer mechanical pumps.

I'm looking at doing a fog / rear light set up like MM's. Where the heck do you find the 4" rubber buckets without the lights? I can find them with fairly cheep I think ($50 / 6) but don't really want to buy them with lamps I'm not going to use. Any suggestions? Thanks

:lmao:Sounds like my wife

Here's a link from TDR with some excellent pictures of a torn town VP44. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&albumid=17275

I like this discussion! Let's fuel this some more (pun intended). OK lets remember flow and pressure are NOT Synonymous. Using the garden hose analogy. You burn you finger and run to the hose and run the water on it. I have just cracked the faucet and have a high delivery pressure at the opening, but no flow. Your finger still hurts. I open the faucet wide open my line pressure drops dramatically BUT I have tremendous flow and my finger is cooled. Now instead of a high pressure 3'rd degree burn I have a high flow 1'st degree burn. I fully agree with the point that Velocity of the cooling media is important to absorbing the latent heat stored in the material requiring the absence of heat. Looking back at our VP. Is the reason for the check valve to ensure adequate pressure in a system that has an inadequate supply system? Remember cost is the #1 reason components are chosen at the mass production level. So I supply a $15 lift pump and make it work with a $3 check valve (mass production costs) or build it to last and eliminate almost all failures with a $400 pump? I multiply this cost over 400K units produced. HUGE money so as a manufacturer I choose to roll the dice play limited warranty and give ya what we got. Only point I'm raising here is. Absolute requirement because it will work no other way, or engineered solution to have acceptable (debatable function)? Does the VP pump really care what its supply pressure is? Or is it happy with having amply supply of fuel to never starve it? I would venture to say the outlet pressure will not change regardless of inlet pressure as long as I have not starved the inlet to the pump. So back to the original question If I supply 3-5X more flow than the system was originally supplied to the customer with does that change all the original operating parameter assumptions? Check valve used to keep supply at pump inlet because my original lift pump and barely supply adequate flow to the system that it indeed would starve inlet to pump due to return line having the path of least resistance? Again all my points are to stir discussion. I can't say these points are correct or incorrect.

Ok so for the sake of debate. If you have a fuel system that will supply enough volume, and pressure. Why run the valve at all? Could it be removed and run full flow all the time? If my FASS, AD, MITUSA, ect. Supplies in excess of 90gph (1.5gpm). I would still have more than adequate fuel supply to cool the pump and feed the injectors.

I wanted to be there. the day job wouldn't allow it

Yep, got that part on the lines. I broke the line for the HVAC running along the cowl when I was doing my injectors. While I was tracing the lines I found a Green vacuum line not connected to anything. I followed under the truck and it runs back towards the O/D unit on the trans?

Looking for a Schematic of the vaccum line's on the '01's Thanks

Now that I like

Ok the sample looks good. It would also be nice to know what the TBN # is? Any way here is what each element will be from: Iron (Fe) Cylinder Liners, Rings, Gears, Crankshaft, Camshaft, Rods, Valve Train, Oil Pump Gear, Wrist Pins Casting Iron Chromium (CR) Rings, Liners, Exhaust Valves, Shaft Plating, Stainless Steel Alloy Nickel (Ni) Alloy in Valves, Crankshaft, Camshaft, Contaminant in Marine Bunker Fuels Aluminum (Al) Pistons, Thrust Bearings, Turbo Bearings, Main / Rod Bearings in Cat Engines Copper (Cu) Main / Rod Bearings (also look for lead), Brass / Bronze Bushings (also look for Tin and / or Zinc), Oil Cooler Core Tubing Lead (Pb) Overlay Metal in Main / Rod Bearings, sometimes, Solder, Aftermarket Additive Tin (Sn) Bearings (Babbitt), also look for Lead, Antimony and Copper, Bronze Bushings Flashing from Pistons, Solder from Tin-Lead Solder Silver (Ag) Silver in Wrist Pin Bushings in EMD 567 & 745 Engines, some Solder from Cooler Core Joints Silicon (Si) Silica - Dirt, Silicone From Silicon Based Synthetic, Silicone Sealants, Silicates from Antifreeze Viscosity measures a lubricant's resistance to flow (fluid thickness) at temperature and is considered an oil's most important physical property. Depending on lube grade, viscosity is tested at 40 and/or 100° Celsius. Fuel Dilution is the amount of raw, unburned fuel that ends up in the crankcase. It lowers an oil’s viscosity and flash point creating friction-related wear almost immediately by reducing film strength. Soot is also reported in % of volume and can indicate reduced combustion efficiency. Soot can be caused by over-fueling, air restrictions, blow-by, excessive engine brake use and/or excessive exhaust backpressure. Oxidation measures the breakdown of a lubricant due to age and operating conditions. It prevents additives from performing properly, promotes the formation of acids and increases viscosity. Nitration indicates excessive "blow-by" from cylinder walls and/or compression rings. It also indicates the presence of nitric acid, which speeds up oxidation. Too much disparity between oxidation and nitration can point to air to fuel ratio problems. As oxidation / nitration increases, so will total acid number and viscosity, while total base number will begin to decrease. Nitration is primarily a problem in natural gas engines. Molybdenum is a multi-source metal detected with Elemental Analysis by ICP (inductively-coupled plasma), which detects up to 24 metals, measuring less than 5μ in size, that can be present in used oil due to wear, contamination or additives. InReciprocating Engines Alloy or Plating from Rings, Friction Modifier Additive in oils, Grease Contamination, Molybdates from some coolants Manganese (Mn) Steel Alloy Metal in Gears, Some Shafts Boron (B) Additive common in engine oil, some gear oils Calcium (Ca) Detergent / Dispersant Additive, Calcium from water contamination, Lime Dust Zinc (Zn) Alloy in Brass, Anti-Wear Additive ZDDP, Galvanized Steel from filter canisters Phosphorous (P)Anti-Wear Additive ZDDP (ZincDialkyl- DithioPhosphate), Phosphate Ester, Phosphate Inhibitor found in Coolants Magnesium (Mg)Detergent / Dispersant Additive, Alloy, Environmental Contaminant Sodium (Na)Sodium Antifreeze Inhibitor (Coolant Leak), Additive in Unleaded Gasoline Engine Oils, Salt Water, Spray Wash InReciprocating Engines Alloy or Plating from Rings, Friction Modifier Additive in oils, Grease Contamination, Molybdates from some coolants Manganese (Mn) Steel Alloy Metal in Gears, Some Shafts Boron (B) Additive common in engine oil, some gear oils Calcium (Ca) Detergent / Dispersant Additive, Calcium from water contamination, Lime Dust Zinc (Zn) Alloy in Brass, Anti-Wear Additive ZDDP, Galvanized Steel from filter canisters Phosphorous (P)Anti-Wear Additive ZDDP (ZincDialkyl- DithioPhosphate), Phosphate Ester, Phosphate Inhibitor found in Coolants Magnesium (Mg)Detergent / Dispersant Additive, Alloy, Environmental Contaminant Sodium (Na)Sodium Antifreeze Inhibitor (Coolant Leak), Additive in Unleaded Gasoline Engine Oils, Salt Water, Spray Wash

I've been quite happy with them so far . You definitely need more air with the 150's. My HE351 hopefully will take care of that. Millage up a bit. Quieter. All good stuff. Also the pricing from jkidd was excellent.

I'm running a dual remote bypass on my '01 and am quite happy with it. Here's my last oil sample for reference.Uber Report..pdf