Cowboy

Article looks great! Lots of time and documenting went into it!

You say your plug is smaller then 18MM? 18MM is the smallest cummins oil drain plug size that I know of. Could you have been sent a 22MM?

On the note of Drive pressure, I was "tuning" my exhaust brake. I turned it on, and revved it up slowly until I hit ~60 psi, it was about 1800 RPM. I looked at the tail pipe and it was hazing pretty good, glanced at the Pyro and 1000*!!! Goes to show that having a bunch of DP really does heat things up, Having a tight housing does get it spooled faster, but in order to make the same boost, you have to have more drive pressure, and then wastegate the extra volume. I'm fairly impressed with my little HX35, between 6-30 psi it keeps pretty dang close to 1:1, sometimes higher, sometimes lower.

Agreed. The main problem is the voltage spike is a negative voltage spike. In electronic circuits, this is normally protected by a capacitor and a diode. Connect the Diodes anode to the negative rail, and the cathode to the positive rail. Then hook up the capacitor as close to the item that you're trying to protect as possible. Also, Grid heater pull 100 amps each.

Runnin Pretty Clean!

Hmmm, this gives me an idea for a "gadget" for my Translator... My current tanks MPG arn't looking so good, Just above a 1/4 tank and probably 400 miles.... Though I do have an excuse!

I'm still following your progress. Guess there isn't much time to waist when trying to read RPM's of 100k.

That's my thought as well, but he's been working on this for months so I'm sure he's got it figured out much better then I do. I always thought that having a EGT gauge post turbo would be the best way to find the correct vain position while cruising. To much drive pressure, and they get hotter, to little boost and they get hotter.

What kind of boost are you seeing at different RPM? What about Boost:Drive Pressure? I'm glad you got it to where you like it.

The catalytic converter is right in front of the muffler (PIC). With your build, and MPG's being important, I would either straight pipe your 3" exhaust, or get an aftermarket 4" system. If you don't like being to loud, and aftermarket resonator should work well without being restrictive. I've got a 3" system on mine with a stock resonator from a 24 valve, the resonator is straight through 3" so I can't imagine it being to restrictive, and it cut down on the noise considerably. You have to take whatever you read from the exhaust manifold dealers website with a grain of salt. As far as deciding which one, I would stick with the forums to find reviews.

Sorry, I somehow missed replying to this. Thank you for clearing that up, I thought 32 psi sounded really low. God has a uncanny sense of humor, so yes it does run, but that's about it. lol There's been more then one P-pump that made it past 1,000,000 miles. GAmes on CumminsForum is one of those owners, he's at about 1.2 million, had to rebuild the engine at 800,000 miles due to more then normal oil consumption.

Getting a fuel pressure gauge would be recommended. If you've got a stock exhaust system, the catalytic converter can get clogged after a lot of easy driving. To clean it, simply drive it like you stole it. The stock exhaust manifold should work well for you. Aftermarket manifolds do have advantages, but also have disadvantages. The stock ones do like to shrink, so make sure yours isn't leaking or cracked.

I'm all about supporting the vendors on here, I've purchased a couple things from them on here even though I could have saved a couple bucks. You will need a different fuel pressure gauge, 60 psi minimum. I'd stick with the 60 psi boost gauge, keeps your options open in the future. My prayers are about the same as yours, though my #2 is to just be able to keep mine running. lol

On boost and EGT, you'd pick the same as you would with a 12 valve or 24 valve. Honestly, I'm not sure if they make a mechanical EGT gauge. If you do go with an electric boost gauge, make sure to isolate the sender, as well as install some sort of snubber. With my digital gauge, I noticed a lot of "water hammer" that a analog gauge probably wouldn't show. Cummins specs for fuel pressure is 17-22 idle, 25-35 WOT. The P7100 is a little more flexible with fuel pressures, anything below 60 psi is safe. EDIT: Pressure shouldn't get below the factory spec, just for performance sake. For your truck, stock boost should be around 18 psi. With my stock 215 hp truck, max EGT's I saw were 1100* but that was full throttle above 2500 RPM for an extended period of time. If you just punch it, they were around 900*.

The people over at PDD are great and very knowledgeable guys. You probably already know that Will is "Big Blue24" On many forums, and is full of great knowledge. And here is the build thread for "frankenstein" http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/1332233-project-leftovers-rise-frankenstein.html Gauge choices are the same for 24 valve vs 12 valve. Due to the piston lift pump on the 12 valves, there is more fuel pressure pulsation. I personally like a mechanical fuel pressure gauge mounted like THIS as they are a little more resilient.

It's a good idea. There is gallons worth of volume in the intercooler/piping, so I'm counting on that as my reservoir tank, when installing everything, I tried to keep hose length to a minimum. You have inspired me to install something like in your picture for my vacuum actuated exhaust brake, as it has 3ft of 1/8" tubing feeding it, and as it sits, takes about 2 seconds to fully engage.

Normally automatics defuel between 2300-2500. By installing a GSK (Governor Spring Kit) it lets the engine rev to 3000 or 4000 RPM before defueling. You can install a 3k, but I would install a 4k as the 3k will start to defuel ~2800 and the 4k just drives better.

I'll be back on later, but here is a link that you may find useful. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/1710706-afc-live-has-arrived-beginning-new-era.html If you're going to email him back, ask him about GSK's I'm surprised he didn't mention anything about them.

That's nothing, you haven't seen what I look like by the end of the day.

seems like I may not be understanding accumulators correctly. I'll have to do some research. EDIT: found this, and it makes it sound more like a capacitor then a relay. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_accumulator Am I on the right page here or did I totally miss something?

I understand there operation, I was under the impression that they are only needed when working with fluids that don't compress, like hydraulic fluid and water.

Are you talking about having a storage tank right before the valve, so once the valve opens, it can open the wastegate quick? That could work, the issue would be mounting the tank close enough to take full advantage of it. Been doing some hualling, and my clutch has decided it has had enough of it. So I can't test the boost controller for a while. However I did make some changes, and they seem to make it better, it still is going to have that initial spike. I truly think that this design isn't for everybody, I use my truck for work, and rarely hit my max set boost pressure, and I always roll into it. So instead of using it as a controller so much, I'm more or less using it to plug the wastegate until the my max safe boost (30 psi) in which case it works as a "fail safe" and lets the wastegate open. If you use your truck as a hot rod, then a normal boost elbow will work fine.

The AFC Live is a good product, however it doesn't "give" you power per say, it just lets you adjust the power output from inside the cab. It will work with any injector/turbo combo. The 24 valves are good if you want to throw a tuner on it and go. With the 12 valves you have to fiddle with the adjustments to get it right. Now it's not 100% slam dunk. The '99 just got a tuner and has decent power, the '96, just by playing with adjustments pulls better than the '99. Now that's because I've fiddled with the adjustments finding the sweet spots, and I'm by no means done. However trying to make it comparable with the 99 would have been fairly easy. And I'm not just referring to the max power output, but also the spool RPM. On your truck, there should be an "OD off" button right above the radio, that will help with slower cruising, hauling, and merging in traffic. What it does is force the tranny into 3rd and lock the TC.

The 24 valve temp gauges are more like a dummy light, but it sounds like your truck could use a radiator flush. Maybe you had a typo, but your truck already has an AFC. If you want more get up and go, I'd be looking into a new TC, because the stock ones are ~60% efficient instead of ~90% and has to high of a stall speed. I'd also look into a 4k GSK, it will also work well with your stock TC. It lets the engine rev higher without defueling, an automatic defuels around 2300-2500. Besides those, you have a lot of power capability on tap just by tuning the fuel plate / AFC. The fuel plate is like your max fuel limiter, by sliding it back, it lets the IP pump more fuel into the engine. You can also swap out plate profiles to change the fueling rate in relation to RPM. As you can see in THIS picture, different plates have different profiles. The arm that rides the plate rides higher up on the plate at higher RPM's. So you can change the fueling rate at different RPM's with different plate profiles, you can also take a stock plate and grind your own. The mounting holes are slotted so you can slide it around to get the max fueling you desire. There are a couple parts that will swap between the 24V and 12V, the block doesn't have the hole for the lift pump, and the cam doesn't have the lobe for it either.