Cowboy

all 98 12 valves were manufactured in 97. 1/1/98 the emission requirements took place which the 12 valve couldn't meet, hence the need for the 24 valves. You can check the vin on the core support, dash, and door sticker and make sure they are all the same. You can also decipher the Vin yourself. http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/VIN_decode.htm http://dodgeforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php

Yes, but there is a new product that's about to hit the market, and I think it's worth waiting for.

The stock mechanical lift pumps are hard to beat. They generally last 300k if there rest of the fuel system is healthy. Yes, the new lift pumps do have stronger springs. Here is one I sourced that is a little stronger still 975-1 Valve Spring. The advantage to running a stiffer springs is being able to run more pressure, with more flow. Here's a writeup a friend made that is very informative http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/1622154-d89s-super-fantastic-fuel-system-escapade.html. I'm not that great at keeping track of mileage, but the 12V and 24V get about the same. The P7100 isn't very picky about pressure, On the one truck, I ran it with air in the fuel and 0- 3 psi fuel pressure for at least 3k miles. There is no DVD or Book that I know of, however if you have questions, I am more then happy to answer them best I can. As for making a stock truck reliable, just hit the KDP, and make sure the stock fuel system healthy and you're golden.

Incredibly! There service is top notch, and prices are hard to beat. Quality is dependant on the brand you buy. As an example, I bought 20 lug nuts from them, 1 of the ones I received was wrong. So I went on their website to try and get refunded for the one, they had form with a couple questions, what was wrong with the item, item number on the box, and the vehicle you tried to install them on. And the very last question was do you want it to be replaced or refunded. I got curious, and clicked the "replace" option, 3 days later and no charge I received the replacement.

I did it on an older one, I used the gasser wiring harness in the cab, so far everything seems to be working. However I haven't had a chance to work on the "wait to start" light. I know at least one issue with it, I just don't know if that's the only one. You'll need to swap in the Diesel gauge cluster. Brake and clutch mounting system should be the same. You'll need to keep the diesel radiator support. You'll have to cut the hole for the shifter. Gasser cabs aren't sound proofed like the diesels. you might want to swap the sound deadener stuff on the diesels firewall onto the gasser cab, makes a big difference. You'll have to remove the fenders first, then the cab. There is a lot of bolts that are going to need to be removed, if your memory is anything like mine, try to thread the bolts back into where they came from. If you can't, put the related ones in baggies. EDIT: I just reread. you plan on swapping a extended cab onto a regular cab frame? are you going to stretch the frame?

I 404'ed, so we're still in the clear.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/general-diesel-discussion/164414-picking-fuel-stop.html

I don't drink and drive...

When you install a BHAF, it's not a simple 'plug & play' setup. First you must make sure it doesn't rub anywhere it shouldn't, like the original mounting bolts for the stock air box. Second you must support the rubber flange of the inlet with some sort of steel pipe, or the connection might leak. That really stinks though.

That is exactly the reason I wanted to make my own boost controller. I didn't want it to start opening until a couple PSI before my max boost pressure. And that way I can maintain a certain boost pressure throughout the RPM range. Though that didn't come without some fallbacks. Really though, my wastegate actuator was working plenty well, but I never have liked the idea of how a boost elbow worked, so have been trying to think of a better design for a couple months now, so when I realized what I was trying to design was a slightly modified fuel pressure regulator, I had to try it out. Before making this boost controller, yes, adjusting the rod was my main way to adjust the pressure. A while back I was playing around with the idea of making my own "big head" wastegate actuator, or going with a spring gate. I decided to make my own actuator, as I couldn't picture the spring gate working as well, and my welding skills could use a project. I would still like to make a spring gate and see how well it works. Here is a chart I made for the amount of actuator movement / pressure. Red is the one I made, Blue is stock. Left is 1/10 of an inch movement, bottom is psi.

Apparently my back-o-meter is reading a little low, figures... I guess I need to recalibrate it.

From the center of my engine, to the front of the bumper is about 39" It says it can reach up to 45". so you should be good. Worse case you can insert your own extension, as the head ways all of 130lb's

You are right, I'm not using the term correctly. What I'm incorrectly calling boost creep, is when your pressure keeps rising above your set boost pressure as RPM's go up. Technically that is boost creep, but only when it's happening while the wastegate is all the way open (thank you google). The stock wastegate is all the way open at 32 psi. Even though people run 35 psi, due to the way a boost elbow functions, it doesn't reach 32 psi, and won't open all the way. Yes, a boost elbow is a proven design, and works well. I just didn't like how the design looked in my head and wanted to do something different. I also heard a couple people trying to decide between running a boost elbow, or disconnecting the wastegate because they liked how the turbo spooled with the wastegate disconnected, but didn't like having to watch the boost gauge like a hawk. Why port the wastegate on a stock truck? well, after I get the gauges working like they should, and have a base line, I'd like to change the 'stock' factor. Also, I just like fiddling, I actually screwed up and went to far, so I had to make a new wastegate flapper with an old exhaust valve. Thank you for pointing out my mis-verbiage.

That's a difficult question for me to answer. Mostly because I don't want to sound like a salesman, or tell you that you should do everything the same way I did. So I'll try my best to give you the pros, and the cons, and let you decide. Cons: More complicated, and more likely to break than other boost controller designs. Cost double of what the more basic boost controllers do. When the wastegate first opens, there is a little bit of fluctuation in boost pressure, as seen in the chart above. Larger and bulkier than most other boost controllers. Pros: The wastegate stays closed until the pressure you have it set for, so you can spool faster and cleaner. Because the wastegate no longer starts to open at 10 psi, if you're climbing a grade, or your pressure is above 10 psi, the wastegate won't be bleeding away pressure. There is no boost creep, so the boost will stay close to your set pressure throughout the RPM range. Unlike the boost elbow, There is no boost leak until after the wastegate starts to open, in which case you have to much boost anyway. Hopefully that's a complete enough list. On the boost fluctuations, I need to make a couple more mods, and "tune" the regulator a little bit. But I don't think others will see that much fluctuation because my system has everything going against it: My wastegate actuator is 3" in diameter, meaning there is a large amount of volume that has to be filled, and bled to adjust the wastegate actuator, meaning it takes longer, so more fluctuation. My wastegate port is almost twice the size as stock, meaning that a little bit of movement bleeds off a lot of drive pressure. So it's easier to "Overshoot". My truck is basically stock, meaning the wastegate hardly has to relieve any extra pressure, so it's even easier to overshoot, because the first little bit of opening, is going to have the greatest effect on flow going through the wastegate port. According to some data I have about my wastegate. At 2400 RPM, it takes .05" of wastegate movement to regulate my boost to 19 psi.

My head is kinda "Out of the game" so to speak, so I'm not likely to be of much help on this one. From just a little thought, I think I would find the function that tells it to close and change how fast it closes, or add a delay to keep it from closing till either a certain amount of time, or till boost is below a certain amount. When I say add a delay, I don't mean a delay(), I mean a "smart delay", it's more complicated to use 'if' statements and count the millis, but it lets the rest of the code function properly. Also, I'm all for trying to make the code work as fast a possible, but if it were me, I would stay away from bit shifting, and just use division. Then once you have a working code, and you're happy with it, then optimise it for speed. This is just my opinion,so don't feel obligated to do it, it's just a lot more complicated for me to troubleshoot, or understand code when it's got all that bit shifting in it, however, maybe my head is just slow. In that thread on CF, I posted where I tested the speed of division vs multiplication vs addition vs subtraction, and according to my results, there really wasn't that much difference.

Don't need to, both my 12V'ers have a like new 18 year old spare... I understand it's not optimal, but if you compare them (HERE), the size difference would vary more from brand, tire pressure, or a couple hundred miles up or down.

OK try this, I'm not very good with charts. It's the green line about the center. Because my truck is stock, with the upgraded wastegate, and has a very inlarged wastegate port. It's not as bad as it would otherwise be.

A 265/75R16 is almost identical to a 265/70/17 A 245/75R16 is almost identical to a 245/70/17 Would I use a 16" as a spare... I am lol If you're honest with yourself, most peoples spares are new tires, most tires pop when there under 1/2 tread, The difference in height from tread wear alone would be more then what you'd notice with the sizes above.

Took it for a drive today, it worked fairly well, boost isn't the smoothest, but I have a couple ideas I'll have to try to improve it a little. Boost doesn't get to my set 22psi until 2100 RPM. Though I know without a wastegate I can hit 30psi, so yes the wastegate is doing something lol. Before (This is with my "upgraded" wastegate actuator, you can see it start to open at 17 psi, stock starts to open ~9-10 psi.) After

When I designed the PCB for my project, I screwed up in a couple ways. One of the larger ones was lack of flexibility. The beauty/curse of building something yourself is it's never finished, there are always things that could be added. I don't know how many extra pins there are left after controlling the turbo. However I would break all of them out onto your board so you can hook random things to it (control for water/meth, etc).

That seriously stinks! Do you need new rims now? How many wheels did they do it to? I had that once on the front of the Toyota pickup right after purchasing it, don't know if it was on purpose, I'de like to give the PO the benefit of the doubt. They were aluminum wheels though, so it ate them quick.

I'll try and make a write up here in the next couple days. It's been kinda crazy so I'm to tired to use my head now. But here are some pics I was able to snap. Grind the adjuster screw to a point for smoother adjustment. Made a diaphragm out of farm tractor tire tube (thicker than your average tire tube). Our Highly scientific bolt head... (next to a 1/4" nut and bolt for reference) Location of the bolt head, Before. After Unscrew this part and put some gasket maker on the threads. Otherwise you'll have a small boost leak. And then lastly, take the bottom barb fitting out, remove all sealant, and reinstall so there is a small boost leak there. It will only leak when the wastegate is open. It's there to relieve the pressure from the wastegate once out boost pressure goes down and the regulator closes. I have a feeling I'll be sticking with this HX35 for a while. If not, then I can swap this setup onto a different truck. Here's a video of it working, ignore the babbling idiot... life is better that way.

Soooo, what's the story behind this one? Someone brought it in to get the valves adjusted?

I need to get pictures tomorrow. But the parts list includes, the regulator, a small screw head (cut the threads off), piece of tire tube, and some gasket maker...

I have something against buying parts off the shelf... So I came up with my own boost controller. What's wrong with the normal boost elbow? It does work to increase the boost pressure, but It makes the wastegate opening curve even worse then it is stock. With my stock 96, it makes about 22 psi with the stock wastegate and no boost elbow. After some testing, I've found it to start opening around 10 psi. So when we're at any boost pressure above 10 psi, the wastegate is already starting to open and bleeding drive pressure away from the turbine. With this setup, you also have what's called 'Boost Creep' where the boost climbs as the RPM's go up. This is because at 22psi, the wastegate isn't even half way open yet. The boost elbow does not fix these problems, and neither does the ball and spring type boost controller. After lots of complex designs involving a 3 way valve, I opted for a more simple approach. I bought a $23 eBay fuel pressure regulator and modified it, which included replacing the diaphragm with a piece of tire tube (temporary), and changing the seat a bit. Using an air compressor to mimic boost pressure. The wastegate is fully closed with no pressure in it at 28 psi, and fully open at 32psi. This means that the wastegate will do everything it can to keep us at/near our 30 psi setting. This also means we can enlarge the wastegate port, without fear of it making the wastegate open prematurely. Success!