Ironforger

What he said. As long as you are sure exactly where to drill the hole, you should be fine. I did it in less than 10 minutes.

I installed a glacier fuel boss from the get-go. I researched at the time and found very few reported issues for the fuel boss vs numerous issues for the electric pumps. Outstanding customer service at glacier as well.

Havent done this yet on my 5.9 but I will soon install pyro and boost guages. I installed a pyro on an isuzu box truck I used to own. As Yankneck mentioned, it's very easy to do - drill and tap while engine is idling. Chips blow up and out of the hole. Just wear safety glasses. It's easier to do this on a cold motor on first startup of the day. Don't do it if you have been driving it all day.

Very cool! Thanks for the info.

Just wondering how you know what the IAT is. Do you a temp probe somehwere on the intake & a guage? Thanks

Well at least you get a coherent response. At my local station, they don't speak english and they don't know the diffference between gas and diesel. Here in NJ, it's illegal to pump your own fuel, the attendants must do it. Yet I pump my own no matter what, otherwise I would end up with a tank full of gasoline. Especially in my TDI diesel VW.

Wow, that's freaking cold! Without a doubt your fuel supplier must be adding an anti gel?

Michael, I recall you mentioned this once before & I want to make sure I'm using the correct products without mixing and risk of canceling each other out. What do you use in winter? It get's mighty cold in your area right? I use howes lubricator. Do you feel howes is sufficient as an all in one product for both anti-gel and lubricity? Thanks!

I agree. It's not too difficult to remove the cover to replace the seal. Takes a little finess to tap the new one in though. The napa kit comes with the expander-sleeve slide-over cone which allows you to re-install cover without damaging the seal lip. Overall the job is not too difficult and it's a good opportunity to first pressurewash before taking everything apart & then once back together you can watch closely to see where oil leaks (if any) may originate from.

Does anyone have access to the software that the dealer uses to view exploded parts diagrams & part numbers for our trucks? Or is there anything out there that allows us to do this? Thanks!

If you go to the parts dept at your dodge dealer and give them the vin, they can give you a print out of all the options your truck came with from factory, including axle and ratio. That does not guarantee if was not changed somewhere during the life of the truck but there is alot of detail on the printout. If the parts guy says he can't do it, he's wrong. Ask for the parts manager.

Ok, So I'm almost done setting up my truck, getting ready to fabricate a tow hitch setup & I realize I don't know the towing capacity for this truck! it's a 2002 2wd 3500 quad cab dually 6 speed & HO. Dana 80 axle has 3.55 gears It has factory helper leaf springs, and firestone "ride rite" air bags So does anyone know the towing capacity for this truck? I'm wondering which class hitch to setup. I will always use 5th gear when towing as it's 1.00 ratio straight through. Also, I've installed a service body on this truck so that rules out gooseneck/5th wheel style towing. Thanks!

Here you go. I replaced the nylon insert nut and wedge with the double nut and bendable lock tab setup on my dually 3500 dana 80. Highly recommend. I think the same kit works for the dana 70 but you can ask the vendor to be sure. This is good vendor. Great customer service and good quality parts. http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=acton&key=4012

I've heard that when towing you should never use 6th. Use 5th gear since it's straight through 1:1 ratio. 6th uses an intermediary gear & I've read somewhere that it can't take the extra stress of towing, something about the bearings being weak & heating up.

Item 2. Fuel Lubricity. What product & quantity are you using? I'd like to make sure I'm using the right stuff & correct amount.Item 3. Excessive AC Noise. To check this can I simply use a multi meter set to AC volts? Should I ground the multi meeter directly to the battery? or to the alternator housing? Does it matter if checked at idle or should it be done at any certain rpm range? Thanks!

Sorry, not understanding which ones you took off or put on. The stock mirrors you took off, were they they flip up ones? Or the ones that mount with the stainless steel tubular hardware?

Thanks guys. I think my problem is, that little convex mirror in the lower corner is hard to see. I may take it to my local glass shop and see if they can eliminate that, and just replace with one piece mirror to fill the entire housing. Then, I may attempt to hang a larger round convex mirror (about 6" diameter) from a bracket fastened to the back of the flip up. It might look stupid when in flipped up position though, but that doesnt matter to me.

I've been driving my 02 3500 6speed dually for a year and I have yet to appreciate these stupid flip up mirrors. Am I the only one who feels this way? Visibility just blows regardless of flipped up for towing or tucked down in granny mode. I'm tempted to take them off and put the old school mirrors on. Has anyone tried modifying these mirrors? Thanks!

I can understand why dirty fuel or low fuel pressure would kill an injection pump, but what is it about a bad alternator that would kill the VP44? Low voltage? Voltage spikes? Unclean current? Or what about too much injector cleaner? How much is too much? What is the reccomendation? We should use some kind of anti-gel in winter as well as lubricity additve year round correct? Becuase modern diesel fuel is ultra low sulfer? Im using a 50/50 mix of Howes lubricator diesel treat & walmart tc3w 2 stroke oil. I typically ad 8 total oz of this custom mix per tankful. What is the popular concensus on treating our fuel these days? Thanks!

Excellent advice. Thanks guys! I'll look into getting the seal kit & dedicate a Saturday to this. Michael - you mentioned Supertech Power Steering fluid. Is that the wallmart product? Also, what is the best method for flusing the power steering system? Dissconnect the return at the ps resevoir and let run into pan while constantly filling with new fresh fluid? Thanks again

02 5.9 QC dually 6 speed. 200k. Just what it sounds like. I noticed power steering fluid on my floor matt, appears to be dripping off of my brake push rod. Issue is intermittent, does not leak constantly. I know the brake power assist is by the power steering pump. Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and how difficult is it to repair or get the brake booster thing out of there. Is it just a seal to be replaced? or do I need to replace the brake booster assy? Do I need to crack all brake lines & remove the master cyl? Thanks!

Hello felllow welder. What kind of machine do you have there? Looks like a miller? What model?

I had the same issue. Turned out I had a leak in the supply line just off the fuel tank. Check out my thread here: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8152-1990-w250-difficult-starting/

15-40 Rotella here. I've heard from, the guys at my local cummins power systems shop that if you've been running conventional motor oil for the life of your truck, (or if you bought a used truck and the engine oil type history is unknown) then you should never switch to synthetic as it will cause seals to leak.

Fixed. Diagnosis: Supply line leak pre-lift pump. Supply/suction line was rusted. There was a small hole at the first bend off the tank. I ran a new rubber fuel line (Diesel compatible of course) from the tank to the lift pump. Luckily didn't have to drop the fuel tank. Being skinny and working from the driver side rear wheel well I had just enough room to reach up under the body to remove old line from fuel tank and clamp on new rubber line. Once the new line was in I purged everything as follows: loosen the inlet banjo bolt on the fuel filter housing, operate hand lever on lift pump until fuel squirts out, tighten banjo. Next, removed fuel supply line at injection pump & place in small plastic bottle (spring water bottle). Operate lift pump hand lever until clear bubble free fuel squirts out. Replace fuel line, but don't tighten. Operate lift pump again until fuel leaks out around fuel line nut. Tighten nut. Next, cracked all injector lines on the head and cranked engine until fuel squirted out all lines. Tightened all injector lines & truck started up. Runs fine now.