gassernomore

Mine usually goes up to the 3/4 mark on the gauge and then it drops down just to the other side of it.

Did you get this fixed?

Might even be able to bleed it by just turning the key on and energizing the pump. Mine usually goes upto 15 psi for a second when the key is first turned on. Maybe you keep 24 seconds of fuel. LOL

Even though there was a lift pump changed, I would go ahead and check the fuel pressure. Also, I would check for codes. Depending on if that other pump had gone out or not you could be looking at a new VP.

Check under the drivers side battery tray. There is suppose to be a group of wires there that are connected to the ECU. The eyelet can disolve because of the acid and cause problems.

Have you thought about maybe using a de-icer type spray before it snows? They do that a lot around where I live. Or maybe put a fertilizer type spreader on the back of the 4 wheeler and put a de-icer in that. Just a thought. Good luck.

Mine was preprogramed for the AVG gauge.

Baking soda and water will nuetralize any acid. Look at the battery tray, in the center is about a 1" circle.

That is not the one that I am aware of.

Ok gang! Going to make this as simple as possible. On another forum everyone is now believing that 5 psi is a good fuel pressure to run. This is being said by a supplier that sells VP pumps. Although the Dodge service manual says 10 psi is the minimum. I have recently had correspondence with Cummins on this topic and they say "10 psi is the minimum" for the engine. I want you all to know I run 17 psi and am HAPPY with this pressure. What do you feel is the proper pressure to run?

Thanks for the catch! That's why I am here to continue to learn!

First thing to do is to edit your signature. This will help diagnose your problem. Go to Settings (on top of the page) then edit signature (down on the left side). First thing I would do is to make sure your batteries are fully charged and the connections are clean and tight. (both ends!) Weak batteries can play havoc on our trucks. After doing that, I would reset your codes and see if your problem persists. If so, then you will have to replace the sensor.The 1693 is called a companion code. Nothing to worry about. The 1757 is a tranny code, it is saying that the governor pressure sensor has gone bad. Needs to be replaced. The 0230 code is a problem with the electrical connection to the lift pump. The 0234 code is for the turbo wastegate. You can try to clean the map sensor to correct that problem. Sometimes that corrects the problem.http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/map-sensor/map-sensor.htm

The bad thing about a DDRp pump in the stock location is that the pump has to suck the fuel from the tank, the other pumps push the fuel from the tank. Try sucking the water from a garden hose for 6' compared trying to push the water from the hose. Which is easier? Plus, you are using your stock lines for the DDRP. All of the other pumps you get all the lines (1/2") and fittings to get you going. Good luck with what ever you choose.

Welcome to the forum! First you need to fill out your signature and tell us about your truck such as mods etc. This will help in diagnosing your problems. Go to ForumActions, Edit profile, edit signature. At first start up, that is your grid heaters kicking on and off ( no glow plugs ), this is normal. I would clean your terminals and make sure they are tight, check for codes at a parts house(free). When it is hard to start, do you crank it for a long time and then it starts, or is the starter slow to crank? From what you wrote earlier it sounds like it is slow to crank. We need to check all the bases here, sorry if some of the questions sound weird to your problem. What is your fuel pressure. Reply back and everyone will start chiming in! Again welcome!

Thats great that your getting it fixed. Plan on getting that fuel pressure gauge installed soon. If you don't do it in the very near future you will probably just forget about it.

Glad you got one coming. Anything is better than stock. Once you get that all in you will feel a lot better seeing the pressure go up! Good luck!

If you use the key trick for your codes make sure it says "done" twice. If it only says "done" once you will have to use a code reader.

Click on this link and ask for a quote from the vendors: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forumdisplay.php?f=67

Welcome to the site. Like Mike says, Cummins says the minimum fuel pressure is 10 psi. It is like your trying to fill a bucket of water with a cup yet it is leaking out a cup and a half. After having run 18 wheelers my self, think of it this way:do yyou need more skinny pedal when your on flat ground or when your stopped on a hill and trying to move your rig. Get the Fass that you want with 1/2" lines and make your VP happy.

I agree with those items. But, I was thinking of tool in the mechanical sense. I'll give that to you thought. A tool to keep you alive! Works for me! :smile:

The people that are so behind the global warming are there because they are the same ones that would go jump off a bridge because they were told nothing would happen to them. I am like Mike, I'll do my own research.

My average can go way out of wack. I have a couple of really big hills that I coast down and that changes the figure a lot. The dynamic one will continually jump depending on how you drive. Depends how accurate you want to be. Using only the tank gauge will have a lot of variance closer to the full mark and less varaince as you put on the miles. So yes, the today one would be better. The only problem will be you remembering all the X-gauges you made! LOL

I have an extra serpentine belt, dielectric grease,and battery post cleaner. Plus the tools you mentioned.

Welcome to the forum.

My belt tensioner pulley make that noise when it was cold. Then when it warmed up it went away. I made it go away by putting a new pulley back on.