gassernomore

Gotta love that job! 2 weeks ago they said we were going to have this monster storm. We got sunny and warm! Yesterday they say 1/2" snow and rain, we got about 5" of snow.. No one here knows how to drive in snow, had to go to the airport a normal 1 hour ride, took 4 hours!

I am using the stock filter location. Have had no problems with it. At WOT I only have a 2 psi drop. Regardless of all of our different opinions on which pump to use, we can all agree to 1 thing on this forum: a stock lift pump doesn't CUT it with our trucks! Like every one else says a fuel pressure gauge is a must as well.

Those are the best type of fixes. EASY and low cost!

Mike is useing his ScanGauge for that reading. Mine is usually at 14.1. The ScanGauge takes it from the onboard computers. Even though the OEM gauge takes it from there as well, I don't trust that gauge for my volt reading.

Short but SWEET!

Sounds like a stock lift pump correct? Visually check and feel to see if you can tell where it is coming from. The fittings could be lose or there could be a pin hole leak in one. Good luck.

When ever buying batteries always buy batteries with equal or more CCA's then from the factory. I have seen too many people buy the lower price and they work great when their is no load but as soon as winter hit they would come in for new ones.

Past experience says that there are more 01's that the key trick will only work on 1 of the computers. Maybe, yours will work, but alot of times guys get too impatient when reading the codes. They see the 1 "done" and then go and turn the key off. Go ahead and try 1 more time, if the odometer goes back to the mileage without saying "done" twice then you need a scanner.

Plugging the ScanGauge II into the OBDI port. Initial fillup you put info into the gauge and then every time you fuel up you put into the unit how much fuel it takes to fill up your tank. The unit tells you your avg mpg, how much fuel you have left in the tank. Here is a link for the unit: http://www.scangauge.com/ .

Or you could take the easy way out and use a ScanGauge II for the fuel gauge. :smile:

If you need to know now get on Autozone and look up the parts on there. They list the part #'s when you are looking at the items.

Merry Christmas to all! We are going to have clear skys and sun. Last year we were snowed in for Christmas.

The 1693 is a companion code. This just tells you there is another code. The 234 code is your "turbo boost limit exceeded". Someone else will have to chime in on if there is anything that needs to be done with that. At this time I have never had a problem with my turbo.

Try fuse #12

It has a squeeze ball on the top, in the center was a graduated reservoir, and then the suction tube. You squeezed the ball let the fluid come in and then read what the gravity was, repeat for each cell. You did that for a 6 volt battery as well. This would only work if the battery was fully charged. Oh yes, the other high tech test was to visually look at the cells while you put the "load test" on it. If you saw any bubbles in a cell the battery was bad. It had a short in that cell.

Yes, you test the specific gravity of each cell. I haven't gone looking for one for ages! That is how we use to test batteries before all the electronics came into play. Check the volts, specific gravity, and put what was called a load test on it (don't think it really did that! but it looked good to the customers! ) :lmao2:And no, it doen't work if you have a sealed battery.

A cell is bad if you have a 50 pt difference between any 2 cells on a battery. That is true even if it has good volts, it will not hold up in the long run. Learned that from my old auto parts selling days!

Didn't know that about the second plug! Thanks! No leaks as of yet.

Just was given a couple of floor jacks. Bad news is one doesn't lift up and the other barely lifts the truck. I have put fluid in them. There is no id on them. Just wondering if anyone has had to (or can you?) over haul a hydraulic jack. Any pointers would be appreciated!

Well first, you can get an APPS for $160! It is a TIMBO APPS. Let's see if you need it first! Read this and reset your APPS: http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm Second, exactly what kind of truck do you have? Fill out your signature. Look At the "USER CP" at the top left corner. This will help us all to know what your truck has. Include everything about your drive train and any upgrades. It is a coincidence with the power service and 2 stroke causing the dead pedal. How did you come up with the code?

Just thought I would share with you what I am using in my rigs. Had the head mechanic for Maverik convience stores recommend this to me. He told me he could tell the difference on which engines ran it and which didn't. I have been happy with it. It has a HFRR score of 370 at a 1:1000 ratio. http://texasrefinery.com/

Yes it is fixed. Don't know exactly what corrected the problem.:confused: I undid the relays and fuse and cleaned them, double checked all of my fittings for the fuel system for tightness, checked the fuel hoses for any cracks, cleaned the battery cables, and cleaned the fuel electrical connections. Works like a champ! Maybe my truck had a case of forgetting how to act. LOL

Don't know what you have as far as a lift pump or fuel pressure gauge. But, now is a good time to put a FASS, AirDog, or Raptor on that rig. Do not put any lift pump on that goes back in sthe stock location. That addition will keep that new pump happy. A Pressure gauge will give you peace of mind knowing that big chunk of change that you laid out will be well taken care of.

I solve that problem. I just don't open that type of stuff. Period. Even if it is from friends or family. My sister in law has had more viruses on her computer than I have had cars and trucks. But she thinks all of those type programs are great! NOT! Thanks for the warning Mike. :thumbsup:

Subscribing!