kingairc90c
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Ive got the DynaTrac free spin kit in my 99' and I put in a solid axle shaft in place of the CAD. I have 25,000 miles give or take on it and have serviced the bearings twice so far. No problems what so ever!!! The only part I don't care for is that I had to cut through my factory hub covers. Sometimes crap gets in there and I have to remove them to clean them out. The chrome plastic is peeling on one of the hubs. I'm a fussy fart so if that is the only complaint that's not too bad in my book!!
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Sounds like one hell of a trip!!! I always tell myself ill never do it again.....then I end up doing it again. Life really is about the journey or at least that is what I tell my self Better windy and smells like cow___, than Iowa and windy and smells like pig___!
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Did you blow the FL or did you misplace it? If it blew then id say for sure it is a harness issue. Ive seen only a handful in my life and every one was a harness issue, short to ground or back-fed circuit. Now that I think about it if the Dodge computer is good or new there is not much else for electronics on the truck since its a 12V.
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+1 to Mikes numbers. I see the same with my set-up. The only time I ever had starting problems is when I had the the new lift pump on a bad injection pump. Once I replaced the VP44 the hard start issues went away.
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Do your trucks constantly show high mileage numbers? I see them right after I have reset the computer or on my way down from the summit of pikes peak. Otherwise the average number that shows when I fill up is always within a half mpg of actual.
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K&N have high flow but rather poor particulate retention until they get a little dirty then they filter better. AFE makes a better filter in my opinion. just my 2 cents.
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Im sure you probably already checked this but my light did a similar thing and it was the bulb in the dash. Just a thought because I spent days chasing wires looking for a break or a ground fault and it was just the bulb. Good luck!
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I added a sump to a buddy's build similar to what you suggested. It was rather costly as the kit was around $200.00 but he swears by it and regularly runs it down to bone dry. If you have the money, id do it.
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I noticed a little lag on converting to a HX35W too, until I upgraded to RV275 Injectors then it was not even noticeable. With the SMARTY hoked up then it is sooooooo much nicer to have the HX35W.
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Starting a 2001 H.O. p7100 swap this weekend. Ill post pics when I get some. Im installing a reground 12v cam to install a mechanical lift pump.
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+1 for Monstaliner. I have had great luck with the product and more durable than other DIY products. Higher solids content. Just not as durable as a Poly-Urea linex liner.
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I ended up taking mine off to paint it yellow and black. Decided to go the powder-coat route. The powdercoater I used has had great luck with degreasing first followed by a light media blast (baking soda) to remove the paint and not force any finger oils into the metal. Then he bakes it in his oven for 8 hours, degreases again before painting. He says the metal will sweat silicon and some other oils and casting compounds that make the powder peal easily. Ive had it done now for 4 years and looks like new, minus the regular dirt and grime. no pealing as of yet. Cost me $80.00
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On the return side of the vp44 plumbing there is a banjo bolt pressure check valve that opens at 14psi. 15 at idle is fine, 17psi would be better. Wide open throttle or around 3000 rpm it benefits the vp44 to have 15psi. The reason is the vp44 is fuel cooled. If the pressure check valve is not allowing fuel to flow through it then the vp44 is not being cooled. The vp44 is also fuel lubricated so a fresh supply of fuel that is cooler helps with this too. As far as an upper limit, don't exceed 20-21psi as the internal diaphragm doesn't take to well to pressure above 21psi. I know some people run higher pressures and claim no problems. This may be true, but I have rebuilt pumps that failed from too much pressure. Hope this helps a little.
