packinheat2

I watched the videos but it doesn't show the cutting/reassembly which I didn't like. I'm sure I will end up buying it I just wanted to hear your thoughts on it all thanks

I haven't dug into it yet but I'm thinking I need 2 doors. But I guess what I mean is did you feel like the doors were made well and the kit and instructions were put together well enough to justify the price? Just want to see what you thought of it don't want to spend that much if it's a cobble job kit I could basically make myself lol

Dorkweed, I am having problems with my doors too and am looking into the heater treater kit. Do you feel it was worth the money? Just seems like a lot for what it is

AH64ID, I just happened to find this old post and this kind of sounds like what happened to me. Since I already had the truck running and it was electrical shouldn't of the cp3 been able to pull fuel through it? In my case it sucked the canister dry then died so seized lift pump maybe!?

Ok so I've checked all the connections that were in the area I would have been in when installing the shocks and everything seems to be good. I didn't see any fuses that had anything labeled fuel other than fuel heater, but I checked ones that I thought had something to do with it and all checked out. I traced some wires and it went to a relay any way I can test that? I wish I knew what wires in the harness actually went to the lift pump to I could test to make sure there is power.

I bought the truck with just shy of 60k and it was done prior to me owning it. Now it has almost 134k so maybe it was just time for it to happen. I'm going to check all the wiring again when I get off work. I was trying to listen last night and did not hear anything from the tank. Also am I right to guess that if I have the cap off the filter canister with the key on it should be overflowing if the lift pump was working?

Help!! So after work today I put new shocks on the truck, after I had finished I started it to take it for a test drive, and while talking to my brother the truck hiccuped then died. I tried to re start it but it will only crank over (with no codes). I then opened up the filter canister and it was dry. Also my truck doesn't have the canister mounted lift pump. It got dark too quick but tomorrow I will check to make sure that I didn't bump any wiring connections when installing the shocks, but other than that what are you guys thinking lift pump??Thanks for any help!

Any thoughts on the newer Mopar box? I'm trying to return mine to Napa so I'll need one with out an outrageous core charge.

What's everyone's opinion on the best gearbox? Just replaced mine from napa and its total garbage out of the box. So looking to save some time and do it right. Thanks

This is off the Mads website Q. Which version of "stock" will the Smarty come with. A. Smarty does NOT download the complete original software from the ECM and does not store it into it's memory. That is for a simple reason. The protocol in the ECM does not allow to read the flash memory. How can Smarty then return to stock? Simple he has all the latest stock softwares already on board. When you choose to return the truck back to stock, Smarty takes the stock software from it's memory and updates the ECM with that software.

My 04 is the cali model and with the smarty you will never know the difference - - - Updated - - - They are referring to the S-06 which is the sr model of smarty compared to the J-06 which is the jr model. The jr has 3 power levels and the sr has 10.

are 2nd gens power steering fluid? so I know for future reference.

I dont know about 2nd gens but my power steering fluid is ATF and not actual power steering fluid.

In 04.5 the wastegate changed to electronicly controlled along with a few other small things. And I think that the HO models had more horsepower.

Got the sensor in the mail yesterday. The truck is still acting fine but im going to change it out this weekend.

Ya mine is mounted to the engine so it should work

my truck threw the codes p2121 and p2122. Now it is back to acting fine, I dont really want to get stranded anywhere again so should I just order the sensor? And whats the deal with someplaces you get the whole bracket with sensor already in it, but other places you just get the sensor and you might have to calibrate it. The price difference is huge but which would be better?

I agree thats what made me ask. I have been buying the precisions at the local napa and I have warranted everyone ive done on my truck at least once. Yesterday I was redoing the one on the drivers side front axle because it had already gone out. The dumb thing doesnt get grease to every cap, two were well greased, one had a little in it and the other was bone dry. Then get this I started to put the brand new one in and realized that the hole for the grease zerk wasnt even tapped!!!

Just wondering what everyones were on what is the best ujoint brand out there.

Ive been looking into this for my 04. Ive looked into all BD products so im going to use their names. You would need the exhaust brake, a transmission controller (towloc), and I would get the valve body so that your holding pressure would be higher.

went down to 3.59 same as gas now!

I looked again its a 48re. DGB and DGP are codes for the 47re.

I believe that is a 48re. I had to look up my brothers one time and those codes sound familer.

might also want to check your brakes. My truck was making a funny clicking sound only when I would back up and it turned out that the brake pad some how came undone from the metal backing.

yes how? I have the same setup and have never had problems.