Bugman123

I have that and used it to heat ball joint area,not the ball joint.

Did the heat hammer with tension. Red hot.

Hey I got the drivers side apart thanks to advice from here. BUT the ball joint is a -itch. Try everything, rented ball joint press and 3/4 impact with 175 lbs psi to not move any. Yes snap ring is out:). Where I have the truck there is no way to tow it so it has to be fixed. Guys you a did it before in helping in a bad spot so what is your advice this time?

This forum is assume You people have help me again. I'll try at it again this morning a and let you know what happen.

I made a trip to Eugene Oregon to my Dad's place, while here we dicided to replace my ball joints. Well we cannot get the hub lose. We have tried tuning steering wheel with socket and extension on back of hub and it kept slipping off and nothing moved. Do not want mess up my bearings. Can anyone steer us the right way. Looked for hours on net not finding what I need. Thanks for any advise offered.

I made a trip to Eugene Oregon to my Dad's place, while here we dicided to replace my ball joints. Well we cannot get the hub lose. We have tried tuning steering wheel with socket and extension on back of hub and it kept slipping off and nothing moved. Do not want mess up my bearings. Can anyone steer us the right way. Looked for hours on net not finding what I need. Thanks for any advise offered.

Yes

I remove the line at #1 and while cranking it blew tiny bubbles out of the injector at each compression stroke nothing out of the line. Check injector #2 & 3 and i got a little out of the line but nothing came from the injector. So I think now # 1 injector is the problem. Can anyone see anything wrong with my diagnose?

What has me really confused is that I have no Codes of any kind.

Is the clutch in the oil like my Suzuki?

I was givin some so called advise the other day. I was told that a injector could be stuck open causing the no start on my '02. Said that if open compression is going into the vp44. Has anyone seen, heard of this?

It is the VP44 that has gone bad. Rotor seems to be frozen, no fuel to injector at all. Money is tight right now so I will have to no-op the truck until I can replace the pump. Need to do some shopping to see how much I will need to get this fix up. Can't beleive this after a new fuel pump and using 2 stroke. The pump that is on it is a rebuilt pump change before I got the truck. I only have 130,000 on the truck and now the 3rd pump? --- Update to the previous post... Maybe someone can tell me if the Killer dowel pin is a problem in the 02 24v? I read that eailier one are problem but what about the 02? No codes and rotor is stuck so I was thinking it could be mechanical problem:shrug:.

Well i have psi at the vp44 inlet but nothing at the #1 injector!

Been busy at the job and havent time to work on it. I use the key trick to get no codes. --- Update to the previous post... Are you saying that when the crank sensor was bad the actual fuel pump or the vp44 didn't have fp?

Loosin #1 this afternoon and got nothin.

Made a quick trip to the store and on the way back while slowing to make a right hander the Cummins Died . I coasted to the curb. Could'nt see anything wrong. drain a little fuel for Airdog 150 at water filter too see whats up there, looked ok. WALKED a block and a half to get tools, (I Know:lmao:). Remove Fuel PSI sender and add another gauge and was reading 17 before cranking, just the bump of the started so there is psi to injector pump. Then I called Tow Truck:banghead:. Too heavy for me to push that far. After I got home started reading about this, Ck code and found nothing. Now I ask should i ck the keyway at pump or what next? Any advise would be very helpful.--- Update to the previous post...Let me add that the truck sat around for about a month or so, then when i started to drive it again, I would have to crank it a lot longer to get it started. Before i would really just bump the started a little and it would start right up. And I do run 2 stroke at 200:1.Just thinking again, what about the dowel pin falling out. would it leave a code of something or not?

I have bought water pumps from Kragen in the past that were GMB and they had a lifetime warranty. I put these on a Datsun B210 and a Honda accord and they all went bad in a year. The bushing on the shaft worn out and the pumps started leaking. I put 2 on the Datsun and 3 on the honda and after the same thing was happen to them each time i finally told them to give my money back and i bought a rebuilt pump from them and had no other problems with the water pump on both car anymore. I WILL NOT BUY ANYTHING "GMB"

http://www.nhrda.com/Flrz-2011/0514-Info.pdf I am planing on meeting some family and friends there and was wondering who else might be there in Redding, Ca. on Saturday May 14th. Never been to one of these before. Hopefully be camping out there on Friday and Saturday.

Agreed:thumb1:

About taking your part to the garage. When i was younger and worked in a tire shop someone wanted to bring in there parts from Pep Boys (cheap quality at the time) for us to install. The boss told the customer if he was to take his eggs the the cook at a restaurant, and ask them to cook them for you, what would the cook tell you? My thought, especially in todays world, money is money i would put the parts on but if they break you will pay me again to fix it. If they were my parts i would work with them.

You can buy copper wool also. it won't rust. We use steel wool to plug hole around homes. When they chew it, and they will if they want in bad enough, they will ingest the steel pieces and they will acted like little needles inside the rodent. I guess the cooper would do the same.

I have the glowshift gauges and i had to use oem a pillar with their cover. Mine has the speaker in it also. I found one at wrecking yard that did not have speaker ($15.00). Had to drill hole in middle to get speaker wire through ome used peice, and notch the bottom for gauge wire to go through at the dash. It has 4 small screws with caps on each corner to hold the two together. looked pretty clean to me. Just be careful with the speaker, it will come apart and not work, if not real careful.

I hooked mine (before the big line kit) at the VP44. This is where you are to hook it up during psi testing anyway. Use the banjo bolt also but in this localion. You have to use new washers and bleed the line with the FP. Note while i was installing my gauges, the lift pump quit working. Not that one has to do with the other but when i went to fire it up the was no pumping action from my pump and had to replace it w/ and Airtex then. To bleed the line try this. Turn the key just until you bump the starter, this will let the fuel pump run for about 25 seconds, you may have to do this a couple of times because you filter can is empty. After you have blead them it might run a liitle rough until the air is completely removed.

Glad I am not the only one with this problem. Looked this week for grommet for module and found one at out of town dealer for $17 + s&h. hope this will fixes it. Vender said he was trying to get some grommets together but times are hard.

You may need a boost bolt. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RLT-ADAPTER if you end up w/ boost gauge!