TFaoro

Not sure how I missed your post.... Any thoughts on why mine is kicking on when everything is warm?? (IAT, ECT, and Batteries)

I'm trying to find a schematic for them and having zero luck. Any recommendations where to look? I think my dad has a BD or PacBrake on his 96, so I could try and find a part number on it.

Definitely interested in what he has. I'm assuming it's something similar to the AFC live switch

I'm no help... but @Mopar1973Man, @dripley and some others may be able to help you out. Best of luck!

He said it wasn't cycling at all before (3rd post) When I had mine done professionally it was blowing 23* on a 70* evening. I also had a new condenser and evaporator though.

If the system is empty, it won't allow the clutch to kick on (keeps from destroying the pump) I would get a gauge or at least one of those "fill up" bottles with a gauge so you can see if there's any R134a in it.

That's a bit too custom for me haha. I don't want to tear into an NP271 with no mileage on it! When I find the right valves it'll be a piece of cake. If not, I'll just run vacuum lines into the cab and use "manual" switches.

And as it all dies I'll replace it with toggle switches #racetruck Yes that should be long enough for the IAT to get as hot as the ECT

I would bump the timing a touch more. Go a couple degrees up and run it on level 3. If / when it starts to surge, then back it back down. I though your starting point would be a touch high with those injectors. FWIW mine started at 69% with 7x.013's. Do you have a box 66 or is it something else?

Mine always had a random chug at idle. Not sure why, but it would go away while driving. Free revving it had the same chug too. It did not do it while driving ever. I now have a Ppump, so... all of the ecm, vp, sensor "issues" are gone forever for me

Personally, I would not drive it. Is it likely the seals will completely go out and it run away? No. I would try to get the seals in and rebuild it in time, or reschedule the trailer pickup.

Page #57 https://mopar1973man.com/topic/9995-teardown-and-rebuild/?page=57

Mine were on for 30min or so and never blew the fuse. It was melting the rubber caps and caused the alternator to quit charging twice. I don't think those fuses should be trusted. I think codes only get set if the two wires are not connected like moparman said.

Ram should be BEAT for putting that fluid in the G56. They should come with what Mercedes specifies, but ATF gets them through the warranty period, so who cares right?

I could do it in 30min with the right tools... A first timer taking his time and making sure everything is perfect - maybe 2 hours. Make sure you have the right tools though! I can't find if @Mopar1973Man did an article on his turbo or not, but if you look through my thread (within the last 5-10 pages) I rebuilt an S400. They are not the same, but the basics are easy.

YES - it should be perfectly dry inside there. Time for a rebuild! If you've got large and small snap ring pliers they are super easy to rebuild. A genuine rebuild kit is $60 or so from DAP.

Yeah, it cycles like normal when the battery is cold... except the batteries are hot. Small wires are all good and the relays were replaced a couple months ago. It wasn't doing it before the swap. I do have an array of codes, but none of them point at the grids. Hooke em up!! That's weird on the 12v. Sounds like a sensor might not be working right.

@Me78569 @Mopar1973Man That's about all I can help.

Those all seem to be "not working" issues. Whether the grid heater is out of spec or not, it should still kick on at the correct times. I don't have an IAT fooler anymore, but earlier today it was plenty hot to not need it. The grids aren't coming on when I first kick the key on, but after the engine has started. With the AC and grids kicking on my idle is dropping by 100+rpms As if it isn't a pita enough to get going how it is.

I don't see why not. You'd just have to figure out what each of the 4 wires does.

So my grid heater ALWAYS comes on when I start the truck. It doesn't matter whether the engine is warm, ambient is warm, etc. Example today: 78* ambient temp Engine temp 180 Intake air temp 175 Charging voltage (once moving and grids shut off) 13.6V. The lower charging tells me the battery temp sensor knows it's warm out, so that's pretty much ruled out. Is the ECM just mad because it can't see a VP??

Timken is a bearing manufacturer.... I'd be willing to bet they make their own bearings. From what I can find, they are made in the US for our trucks.

Got the compounds back together and the manifold on. The beautiful golden nugget is hidden! I did get the rest of the stainless bolts in as well. The 14cm housing spools nearly the same as the 12. Would it be the same in a single situation? Idk. Probably not. I do notice the biggest difference from a stop. If I gun it from a stop. It spools noticeably slower. Not a big deal though because it's a manual. From 1500rpm in 3rd and up the change is pretty much negligible. Top end is definitely better! I got on it a couple times hard and it was in the low 60s for boost but EGTs climbed much slower and topped out around 1500ish. Fixed the front cover from leaking. Dum dum move. Also pulled the damper and fan clutch to tighten the front cover bolts. Most of them were about finger tight. My assumption is the gasket squished down from the heat cycles. Still waiting on the tunnel ram from carl..... Boost leak is massive!!!

That kinda sucks. It is what it is I guess though.

Understandable. Not sure why it would need 91 octane. I run 87 in my car at with 14+psi of boost and it's just fine with it.