MnTom

Here is my fix for the bolts:

It sounds like your system is still a slight amount low. Far as the air temp going up when stopped, that is because there is no air flow over the condenser and the amount of liquid refrigerant is decreasing. Another normal thing to have happen. Electric fans will sure help that situation.

Joe, you are getting exited over nothing. The pressure of the high side will climb when there is no air flow over the condenser. TOTALLY NORMAL. There is a pressure switch on the high side to shut down the compressor when the pressure gets to high. Just get the suction pressure to be where the book says. What happens in 100* stop and go traffic is the compressor runs and either the low pressure switch OR the high pressure switch stops the compressor to allow the evap to warm and keep it from freezing up (low pressure switch) or the high pressure switch shuts the compressor off to keep the pressure in the safe zone (high pressure switch).

Don't get too concerned about the high side pressure. There is a high pressure switch that will stop the compressor if it gets too high. At an idle you should be somewhere around 40 psi on the low side at about 75* or 80* ambient.

There is a big (in size) 40A fuse in the PDC under the hood for the shut down solenoid. If you need one NAPA has a replacement. ISX is on the right track, look at the relay first. When you try to start the truck the starter powers the coil side of that relay and puts power from the PDC to the lift (start) side of the solenoid. The run side is nothing more that a hold for the solenoid.

The chafe protection is real easy. Just get a piece of 1"x6" about 5" long (if I remember right). Set it on the three studs sticking up and tap on the board where the studs are to leave an impression. Then drill the board where the impressions are. That will keep the board in place and protect the A/C lines and the BHAF too.

Yep, system is low. The way it works is the compressor will cycle on the low pressure switch to keep the evap from freezing up. The pressure climbs in the suction line with the compressor off and allows the low pressure switch to close. That connects the clutch on the compressor and when the pressure drops the low pressure switch shuts the compressor off. You might be able to find a slow leak by spraying the lines with a soapy water solution and watch for bubbles. Chances are you won't find any, but you never know! The most common problem seems to be the evap leaking, and that is a bunch of work........

Start by checking your ball joints, then the tierod ends. Has there been any work done to the front end recently? Are the tires wearing straight and smooth?

Even if the ambient temp is high enough to keep the grids from coming on the WTS light is supposed to come on for a 'self check' when you turn the key on. I suggest that you pull the bulb and make sure it is still functional or try switching the bulb with a known good one.

How did he get the bolt in the bottom of the canister? I thought it went in the top. Did you try bumping the starter (not starting it) and see if you get any pressure? If you didn't get any then your LP is dead.

I can't give you the exact location of the snap ring, but it is from the O/D section. It is a fairly common issue that requires a press to repair and if the rest of the snap ring comes off then it can be pretty expensive. Far as slipping after the filter change, is it possible that the filter is leaking air?

That could be anything from the APPS to your brakelight switch to 'noise' in the electrical wiring. Try holding up on the brake pedal to eliminate the brake light switch. Check all the grounds and clean the battery terminals. I know it doesn't seem right, but cleaning the battery terminals has fixed more than one.

$150 to $200 is cheap! Check the prices from Larry B

Because even though your truck may be aligned to the factory specs the specs are broad enough that your truck may still wander. Use those numbers and it will drive much better.

When you get the new parts in and go for an alignment print THIS and have them set the specs to what the sheet says.

Hey Mr. Mindless, my cruise acted up too, and I replaced the switches on the wheel. Mine was somewhat different though. It would turn on and operate normally with the brake lights, but would not turn off. The switch replacement fixed it, maybe the same thing will work for you?

Those are front hubs..... I haven't been able to find any for sale from auto parts suppliers. Somebody must know of a source...

To adjust the idle there is a screw on the back of the pump that you may or may not be able to see and is adjusted more by feel than any other way. Use a 10MM wrench to loosen the lock nut and adjust the screw. You want to see 750RPM with the engine fully warmed and the A/C on (might be difficult in the cold) with the transmission in gear if you have an auto. Without the A/C on you can set the idle to about 800 to 850 RPM and it will be OK. Also a little 'trick' to help start a cold 12v is to put a little pressure on the throttle when you go to start it.

That is not so bad, but have you ever noticed the white stinky smoke that you get out of the exhaust after sleeping with your truck idling? That smoke is there because you don't have enough cylinder temp to burn all the fuel. Unburned fuel can and will form a gunk that collects on the exhaust and seeps out of the exhaust manifold that is easily confused with engine oil.

You are welcome, but why do you need a hub? If it is just the studs then you just need studs. About the only reason to replace the hub is if a bearing spun and gouged the hub.

Yep, real easy. Just pull the rims, pull the bolts holding the axle in and remove the axle. There is a small retainer holding the big nut on (in the 12 o'clock position). The nut is a 2 9/19" socket. I got mine at NAPA. Unscrew the nut and then you can slide the hub off. Be sure to catch the outer bearing! Just take a BFH and you can pound out the old studs. You should be able to pull the new studs into the hub with a lugnut and impact. Then just re-assemble and you are done!

The only problem with this chart is I have a set of steel wheels off of one that had disc brakes and they do not fit any of the drum brake trucks.

Why not find out where it melted and then separate and insulate the wires?

If you figure it out, LET ME KNOW!!! My daughter has the somewhat the same problem..... ONLY when cold out.........