Wild and Free

I grew up on dirt bikes as well, Learned to ride a 1976 Honda Trail 70 about a week after learning how to ride bicycle, Graduated up to a 1977 Honda 125 dirt Bike that is still running to this day. Then in high school we got a Honda TRX 300 4 wheeler, I have since hand numerous street bikes and snowmobiles and jet skis almost to many to remeber, but that all ended the day I bought a house and sold my last snowmobile and traded my last street bike for another 1998 Honda TRX 300 which I still have but only use for yard work pulling my full sized pickup box trailer around with.I don't do any trail riding but my wife and I head down to the Black Hills of South Dakota and rent snowmobiles once every couple years and ride the Black Hills trail system which is beautiful.Last time we were there we came accross a half dozen bull elk standing on the trail and they just stood there and looked at us for a minute before wandering off but then what we didn't see until they started moving was the other 50ish elk in the herd that were just off to our side, we were totally in awe and they wern't in the least concerned about us. We crossed paths several more times in the next couple miles of trails before loosing them.

Like I post in every battery thread asking this very question, I have tried about everything and It comes down to shopping for the best battery prorated warranty and price. I never look at specific stores or brands anymore, I shop around for the best priced battery with the best and longest warranty prorate.:smart:Lately one of our locally owned parts houses has had the best priced batteries with a 7 year prorated warranty with totally free replacement within the first 12 months.

Describe the wobble...................... is there any play in the ball joints? The OEM ball joints on the 3rd gens are junk at best with stock tires and only made worse with larger tires.If you have not already done it with the lift you need to replace the rubber busings in the stabilizer and all the control arm bushings with polyurithane bushings, this will help a lot.What 99.9999% of people who think they have a death wobble just have rather minor issues. Unless your front tires get to bouncing off the road and you are totally out of control until you come to a complete stop it is not a death wobble, I have ridden and driven 2 such examples, one was a mid 70's high boy ford with big swampers and the other was an early 80's motorhome, both would get to wobbling so bad they would start front end wheel hopping and would literally get the front tires to bouncing about a foot off the ground once it got going. Makes for an extremely puckered sphynkter for a few hours.

I wouldn't go bigger than a hybrid HX35 of some sort or form with your setup unless you plan on bigger injectors.

Standard rule of thumb is for every degree of increased intake temp the exhaust goes up by 3 degrees.Having your winter front on does make a difference.Timing makes a huge difference in what is safe for exhaust temps also, advanced timing will result in higher internal cylinder temps heat soaking the piston valves block ect, as the heat is held in the cylinder longer, retarded timing results in hotter exhaust temps but lower cylinder temps as the fire is burning as it leaves the cylinder thus being a less damaging heat, you are reading it to be high but it is hurting nothing at that point.

Sounds normal to me, nothing to worry about with what you describe.

The ONLY WAY to run extended oil changes is along with the use of oil sampling analysis. I already knew this, but it especially critical with standard dino oils, The use of bypass filters is what gets most in trouble with failures if not sampling. As I had learned from filter classes years ago which this class just reinforced was the fact that bypass filters along with a partially plugged full flow filter which by the way filters better than a new filter actually filters out the additives from the oil. The oil analysis tests show up as depleted Zinc Phosphate levels first off but what isn't shown on the samples is the level of the phosphate depletion, it only shows as zinc and the phosphate is the more important aspect of the equation and there is no test for depleted phosphate. The use of bypass filters while runing extended drain intervals without the sampling is what gets folks into trouble. The one and only oil mentioned by the lab tech that they wouldn't touch is any Schaeffers oil, said they have way too much moly in them and it breaks down too fast and the wear metals are always way high in the samples they see with this oil. The only other red flag was any Rotella oils, they did say they have gotten better but years ago Cat and Cummins both released public statement bulletins stating not to run Shell/Rotella oils as they did not meet the specs for thier engines, they have since improved the quality but is still not a highly thought of oil from the manufactureres standpoint. They did have good things to say about most synthetic oils as they rarely if ever see any breakdown of the oils just the depletion of the additives like zinc with the use of bypass filters and extended run intervals. He did commend Amsoil as a top quality he said the only thing that has most lab techs wondering is the oxidation is a tad higher than normal on their samples but it is that way naturally and never climbs though, they don't know what or why the additives amsoil uses is like that but it was not a bad thing. A bit of info for AHD64 is to add to his oil filter comparisons is the "Sediment Index rating" which is how much contamination capacity a filter has to hold before it is plugged and restricts flow and /or bypasses, every manufacturer has one but most don't like to show it as this is the most important aspect to a filters quality and then micron rating is a second to that. This is about all I can add to the oil portion of the discussion as we did not get into any depth as that is part of the advanced failure analysis class, these points came from sideline discussions from the lab tech and class instructor together. I will read through the lubrication booklet and see if there is any ground breaking news in it when I get spare time.

Patience Grasshopper! If anyone has any questions they would like to know more about post your questions and I will see if I can help answer them, this will take time as the amount of info we got and covered was almost overwhelming and insiteful. I am not saying I can answer all the questions but I can give a stab at them, If anyone has broken pieces they want to know more about post some high quality closeups of the pieces with a description of what and where it is for and I will give it a go. I could scan some pages or pics from the material I got to help with show and tell but bear with me as this would be time consuming.

Well in case some of you didn't notice I have been gone for the week, I was at a "Failure Analysis" class at a Caterpillar training facility this week.Although it was put on by Cat it is a general course that can be used to troubeshoot anything made of metal, we had parts from many other Brands of engines and equipment as well.All I can say is WOW!!!! I wish I had the knowledge learned at this class 20 years ago at the start of my wrenching career instead of the tail end of it.Taught us a lot about metalurgy and being able to look at any kind of part and be able to tell WHY it failed from from several different objective angles. This was the first class there is another advanced class that hopefully I can get into next year.This week we covered The principles of...1- Metallurgy2- Wear3- Fractures4- visual examination5- Threaded fasteners6- Connecting rods7- Crankshafts8- Engine bearings9- Piston, rings and linersThe advanced class which we got the handouts for as well but get covered in part 2 are1- Engine valves2- turbo chargers3- Gears4- Anti-friction bearings "Roller bearings"5- Shafts6- welds7- Lubrication8- Hydraulic pumps and motorsThere was a fellow in my class who is a Lab analyst in a Cat oil sample lab whom I had a couple of conversations with as well and got some insitefull info as well as from our instructor on lubes and the misconceptions of extended drain intervals with certain lubes and such. We had a discussion about filters as well as part of the class.Overall one of the best Technical Service training classes I have been to over my 20 year career.:thumb1:It will greatly help me throughout this site to "Fix" a lot of misconceptions I see and read throughout many of these forums as well it helped me realize some of my own misconception about how and why some things fail.:smart:The one most important thing we learned about most failures of metal parts come from Nicks and pits caused by as the instructor called it "Mr. Blue flame" that have been nicked by a torch tip causing a pit or nick as well as dropped parts, the most common is the small nicks put in metal from contact with some other source, hammers and punches and chisels grinders ect. There are many types of manufacturing glitches we learned about that happen during the manufacturing process as well and we learned to identify the differences between the manufactures glitches and failures from use and abuse.

Don't know why Dodge set them so low in the first place, most cars and especially imports have a TON of caster. Like I said the more caster the better but we are limited with the amount the factory caster cams will allow. The only way to get more is to go with the MOOG adjustable upper ball joints. Just to be clear here also, you can max out the caster cams yourself and it IS NOT BAD for the alignment, it will not cause tire wear with the little bit we have to work with, no need for an alignment shop to be involved, I always maxed them out and then if for any reason needed an alignment check had them fine tune to get the extra .5 degree on the passenger side. 100% gaurantee you will be impressed at how little of an adjustment makes on wander. On a side note take some time and get some good penetrating lube on the cams as they are usually stuck from corosion or rust, it takes time and patience to get them to break loose for the first time, for those in the rust belt it may be worth while to take the lower control arms off and just get new cams and bushings, might even have to torch them out.

For starters if your rear axle was that far off it would be wearing the rear tires in a similar manner as the front will do when out of alignment. Second the best way to check all the rear suspension is at full droop meaning jack up the back end and put stands under the frame so the rear axle is completely off the ground and hanging free and then you can get a healthy prybar into all the areas which move like spring shackles ect.One thing most forget with the second gen which I have owned 3 of is the caster adjustment, if the alignment shops set it to specs it is not enough have them max out the caster cams on the front axles, usually they set the caster to 3.5 +- degrees when the second gens need at least 4.5 or more, the more they can get the better it will track straighter and not wander as much, I always just max them out my self and tell the alignment shops to keep it there and set it so there is about .5 of a degree more on the passenger side to account for road crown. Usually the factory caster adjustment cams will only get it to 4-5 degrees.Another question is it a combination of both sides equaling 1/4 inch or is one side off that much? That is not enough to make a noticable difference in my book.

Thought this might be something from your old marine days and you could give some advice to him on a farymann engine in a sailboat. Here is a link to another diesel site. I myself had never heard of this brand of engine. http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6564

Some more info to chew on that the MSM won't touch. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=wZPS7AdgNgE Here is a link with a couple of videos embedded but I will post them below as well. http://www.infowars.com/democide-how-many-people-will-government-kill-this-year/ http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgCemznb6Lc&feature=player_embedded http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Fj4NKpeBZM&feature=player_embedded http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=vJHgoIRjlVo Demand a plan and the rebutal videos. http://www.infowars.com/watch-hollywood-actors-want-to-ban-your-guns-while-they-make-millions-promoting-gun-violence/ - - - Updated - - - http://www.infowars.com/photo-of-obama-reacting-to-sandy-hook-news-more-state-propaganda/

Good point MM!Also the double tax on dividends and capital gains taxes goes up to 20% from 15%.Just a bunch of smoke and mirrors, without extensive spending cuts which nobody wants to touch we are still in free fall and went over the cliff decades ago and are now accelerating out of control.

Not so fast, taxes did go up, they failed to mention that although the income tax didn't go up but social security tax rate went up from 4.2 % to 6.2% starting yesterday!:banghead:

My mistake, I reread it and still didn't get that but I am odd that way.

$3K for a tranny attached to a gear vendor OD unit is a super steel, the gear venders unit is worth more than that all by itself. jump on it while you can.

I would unhook it and go from there first.

You guys make these simple little B series way to complicated. Throw in timing for the old 855 cummins where you mechanicaly set injector timing and depending what series 855 it was and what it had for a cam ect you get into inner base circle and outer base circle timing settings. Then you have to shim the cam follower housings on the side of the block to get the base timing and get the cam followers shimmed correctly or the injector timing is not going to come in anywhere close.

By far the best off road wheeling rigs I have been around are the late 90's Olds Bravadas with the Smart track system. Very reliable built tough and unless you high center it or sink it in mud they are about the most capable 4 wheeler ever next to the factory renegade or power wagons.

Just couldn't resist this one!

Lol!!! If it gets results.

I'll let you take the first draw on those.:wow:That pic ties into the subject I had been getting at in the locked thread, Chemical induced GMO foods and vaccines that alter the bodies hormones, unfortunately this is not an uncommon site in todays young people, girls going into puberty before 10 years old ect ect ect. Sterility is off the charts and childhood cancer rates and diabetes are through the roof.

Just to clear up the mud of my other post, a Reman engine is fully remanufactured to factory specs and if they offer a 3 year warranty I would suspect they did a full reman.A lot of companies who offer rebuilt engine usually pull them down find the main issue and fix only the major parts that are broken and then throw new paint on it and offer a very short warranty period, usually only weeks or a couple months and they hope it will hold together at least that long and then its your problem.Like the old saying goes Warranty is like a check, you don't know if its good until you try to cash it.