Wild and Free

Well gang if there is a hole in a piston the boost created by the turbo will definately presurize the crankcsae in short. The turbo itself will not affect it but once a hole is developed then its a different story, if you think normal compression will presurize it and push oil out just think of the amount of pressure and oil pushing out the dipstick caused by a little boost on top of it all in the crankcase. There doesn't even need to be a hole in the piston it could be broken or worn rings either way a turboed engine will have more cc pressure than a naturally aspirated engine I am needing an explanation into the concept of a "Vacuum Pump" creating pressure.

The 125-135 is an estimated torque they give as the 77ft lbs plus 1/4 turn would be close to that, reinforcing my description of the stretch on stock bolts having constant pull down on the gasket versus the clamping force of studs with set torque values and thus the constant retorque procedure needed do to the lack of stretch that studs have.

Once again we are talking about 2 different things, I am referring to head bolts you are referring to studs. Refer back to my first 2 posts in this thread. My 02 has 140K miles on it and 100k of those have been over 450 hp and the last 60k have been at 560 hp and 42 psi on my silver 62 with 150 hp injectors and my engine is virgin and has the original stock head gasket in it yet and has never been retorqued. It all goes back to the OP and retorqing on an older higher mileage head gasket. there is no benefit to it at this point in its life as one would have to remove them clean them up then retorque them down 1 at a time as over time they almost freeze in the block. I am not telling anyone not to do it just saying it is of little benefit on a Head gasket with high miles on it already with stock head bolts.

You would be surprised at how many high performance guys use stock head bolts over studs and run without problems with o-rings to 50+ psi. Stock studs are absolutely safe to 40 psi consistantly. Retorques on stock bolts should only be done after a new head gasket is installed and not to the extent that studs need to be either, after a few heat cycles one retorque round is all they would need to take up the initial gasket compression.

Then on the other hand up north they also get 24 hours of sunlight a few months a year as well.

Time to pull off all the rocker arms and valve bridges and look over the valve stems really close and make sure all of the valve spring retainers are still in place. This is an indicator of a dropped valve, make sure all the valve stems are the same height and one isn't a bit higher than the rest indicating a dropped valve guide and the valve head is pulled up into the head a bit farther than the rest. If all look good then it time to pull the head and see what damage is done internal.

I wouldn't shy away from 90-100 hp injectors, On my 02 I got 2 mpg better than stock when I had 90 hp BD injectors in. And even now with the Scheid lightning 1 injectors which are advertised at 100 hp injectors but are more realistically 125-150 range I am getting right at stock if not a hair better mileage and that is with a big slow laggy turbo. If I backed down my turbo I would be getting well over stock mileage with the current injectors.With my BD 150 injectors I was getting the same mileage as stock injectors maybe 1-2 mpg less if towing with my big turbo.

I wouldn't waste my time with the vacuum pump as you already narrowed it down by stating it smokes white and runs rough and you here the noise from the oil fill in the valve cover. It could be something as simple as an injector hold down coming loose and the injector not sealing in the head as well. This would cause the same symptoms. Not a common problem but it has happened. I would start with an injector removal and overhead valve inspection and work down from there.

Sorry to say but its time to pull the head on that one. Sounds like a dead piston or a broken or dropped valve or guide or a combo of all. It is most common to see the compression out the dipstick first as the compression is forced down into the crankcase and the dipstick tube opening is really close to if not in the oil level so the dipstick is the easiest point to push out. The breather is up high on the front of the engine so other than seeing the excess vapors coming out the tube that will generally be the last place oil pukes out. Once the oil is over full from fuel and overheated from exhaust gasses going into the crankcase and the oil starts to froth thats when the oil will come out the breather. Generally happens when running with engine damage for a longer period of time.

I would leave the stockers alone. Don't mess with it if there is nothing wrong, you won't gain anything at this point. Stock bolts have a stretch to them when torqued to the correct spec where as studs are done by torque because the material doesn't have the stretch factor of the stock bolts.Another way to think of it is the stock bolts keep the head "pulled" down and studs keep the head "Clamped" down.

Ok the title says bolts and in the thread you ask about studs so which are you wanting to know about because they are both very different animals?

This was posted on another forum by Silverram323 so I copied it to share here There is a snow plow mode you can activate. Plow Snow Confidently With Your Ram HD. As the weather begins to change, many Ram owners will start pulling out their snow plows. But your Ram may already come with built-in snow plow mode, a feature that will ensure maximum engine operation while operating in winter conditions. Snow plow mode allows the cooling system and fan to perform to their optimum capability when using a plow blade, which greatly affects the airflow around the front of the truck, ensuring that your engine temperature remains normal. All Cummins-powered Ram Heavy Duty pickups and chassis cabs from model years 2008 and beyond are equipped with snow plow mode capability. Owners of 6.7L Turbo Diesel engines built prior to model year 2008 can receive the snow plow mode capability by requesting the J35 software flash update at your local dealership, if you haven't received this software update on your truck already. If you have snow plow mode capability, here’s how to activate it: [*]Key on your truck without starting it. [*]Pull in the cruise control cancel switch and hold. While holding the cruise control cancel switch, push the exhaust brake switch twice. Then release the cruise control cancel switch. [*]Repeat Step 2 three more times for a total of four complete times to activate snow plow mode. You will then hear two chimes, which confirm that snow plow mode has been activated. Your truck will remain in snow plow mode until you deactivate it. To deactivate it, follow the same series of steps above. You will then hear four chimes, which confirm that snow plow mode has been deactivated. To avoid any risk of overheating, always be sure to activate snow plow mode on your truck while using your plow. Be sure to remember to deactivate snow plow mode once you have finished plowing so that you can maintain fuel economy during normal driving. The Cummins 6.7L Turbo Diesel is built to take on heavy snow, and is always ready to work when you need it. By activating snow plow mode, you can be confident that your Cummins 6.7L Turbo Diesel will deliver the best performance and reliability no matter the weather. ©2011 Cummins Inc., Direct Marketing, Mail Code 60610, 500 Jackson Street, Columbus, IN 47201 U.S.A. Source: http://www.cumminsnewsletters.com/td/td28_snow.html

I can't believe the company I keep here, Nothing but a bunch of domestic terrorists as per the governments description.Now to get to my guns and beer.

That is about the only product that eliminates it. There programmers like smarty and Quadzilla both lessen the effects of smarty quite a bit but neither eliminates it totally.The problem with smarty when I used to drag race is that nobody who races regularly uses the smarty on a second gen 24v as it comes out of the whole extremely hard but then falls off too soon.I can not give any advice on the quad as I have no experience with it myself personally but most folks are running the quad as it is dual purpose. It is a programmer with pump tapping capabilities with many many programs to choose from and customization options are great.

A cracked exh manifold doesn't always mean it has been hot it is just the nature of cast iron being a 1 piece and no way for expansion or contraction. Most times they crack from being shut down too fast while it is hot meaning too fast of a temperature fluxtuation. Personally I would not worry about it.

I have gone way more places in a heavily weighted posi or limited slip 2wd pickup with chains than I have ever gotten with any 4wd unless the snow was just plain too deep. This is always easier with an auto than a manual also especially in super slick conditions no matter mud or ice.

The best part is it is more responsive and less wandering and way less correction needed due to having a faster ratio going from 4.5 turn to a 3.3 turn lock to lock is the best mod ever.

I would shop around for the track bar conversion kits, any year 3rd gen will work, Just need to check out the aftermarket companies to see who has the most reasonable kit. If you shop around you could get the bar from any autoparts store fairly reasonable and then just buy the adaptor braket from one of the mANY diesel sites who mkae or carry them.

Personally I would recommend him to do the 3rd gen TB upgrade as that is where things will wear out and or require more frequent maintenace. I think they "Lukes Links" are better suited for tie rod ends.

I know of a few people who run them and like them, they do save money but are a maintenance item as they do require adjustment on occasion. So you save money on the parts but will invest some sweat equity.

Which parts did you go with and Where did you get them from?

Yep works again. I really should try the needle valve trick like some use on fuel pressure gauges to limit the vacuum going to the servo to slow down the reaction and thus eliminating or reducing the surge. I have the wd40 straw reducer installed with absolutely no affect.

I miss it but can't hardly use it, with my mods it surges too bad driving empty with no load. If I have a trailer on back it works good.Thinking I wasted 40 bucks on a clockspring though after finding the broken wires but I wasn't putting it back together without the new one installed as I hate redoing things.

Thanks to ISX and Mike for both sending me files.I got it figured out. Starting at the switch I didn't have power and since I had broken wires were the wheel tilts I went back down the column and sure enough I found another wire that hadn't pulled apart yet but was broken inside the insulation. So after several crimps I am totally back in business again.

Can someone post up the cruise control circuit for me please. I can't seem to figure out how to get a free program to open these files and now I got my puter wanting to open it with adobe or acrobat and I don't know how to undo that.:banghead: Reminds me of when I spent about 3 days trying to update my smarty and it went through and I never did know how it happened. I just want to fix my cruise, I don't have patience for things like this. --- Update to the previous post... Ok I found some info on another site that says the cruise indicater is in the odometer window and should come on with initial key on lamp test regaurdless. Mine does not come on at all. It went on to say that it could be several things from here. cluster, pcm, wiring.:banghead: I am thinking this one will be worth a few bucks for the dealer to hook up the DRBIII to more quickly isolate the problem area.