Wild and Free

Its right out front in the vender section. The quality is always good with them. I have bought a ton of stuff from them as they have great prices even without the extra 5% discount. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4696-RockAuto-Introduction-amp-Discount-Code! --- Update to the previous post... Check out this thread for a factory line and a place for a tranny temp sensor in the best spot possible right out of the converter where the oil is the hottest for the most accurate reading. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1135-Installing-Tranny-temp-gauge?highlight=cooler+line

Get them from Rockauto.com they just became members here and offer 5% discount. I just bought a tranny line last week from them it was the cooler return line from the front cooler to back port on the tranny and it was only 30 bucks and change shipped. It rubbed through on the crossmember under the driver side of the engine and was starting to weep a bit, good thing I found it while doing a complete service if it had rubbed through it would have fried a tranny in a heart beat going down the road.

Just bypass Vegas and Henderson and just spend the vacation on lake Mead.

It can make huge differences and subtle differences. If yours feels like it has delayed soft shifts it would probably be due for adjustment. Realistically they should be adjusted every 30-40 k miles or every service interval.

That seems to be the method put forth on another site as well. I could have sworn I have read of it being done in the rig.

Figured I would throw this out there. I have had a funny delayed almost slipping type 2-3 shift the past few months and have been giving the 02 a front to rear service and check over and tune up. I pulled the tranny pan and the last couple times it has been loaded with metal and friction material. been that way the last 3 times actually so I have been waiting for the death of it but it keeps hanging in there with 131K of abuse.Back to the story well I adjusted the rear band all was ok there put pan on filled with new amsoil and then went about the PITA front band adjustment which is when I figured out where all the material is coming from. I adjust it every 30K or so when I service the tranny, well the adjusting screw turned in about 4 turns but after adjustment still enough so that lock nut is 1 thread form being flush with end of adjuster stud.Well adjustment spec is to turn it in to 72 inch pounds and back off anywheres from 1 7/8 to 2.5 turns, I usually do 2. So this tells me the front band is about history.My question is can it be swapped without a tear down? I am sure I have read and heard about guys having been able to swap it but figured I would ask if anyone here has done one. I am hoping for a few thousand more miles of abuse out of this virgin trans yet.

I just turn it by putting a ratchet and socket on the dampner bolts and turning it that way. I put a mark on the front cover and dampner to know where TDC is and then the next rotation you can just line it up with the marks. I never liked the alternator method, too much of a chance of loosening or overtightening the pulley and then creating other issues.If prefer the alternator method just reach down and put a little pressure on the belt while turning it and it will turn the engine over without too much effort might have to try each direction to see which way the belt will grab better.

That would be 02 and newer 02 is when they discontinued the CAD. My 02 has full live front end.

The first pic that you pointed out is the spot. And as AH64ID stated you need a grease needle to grease it.The main reason they are a PITA is that the little spring backed steel bal sticks due to dirt time ect. I find it a lot easier to clean the area and blow it out with compressed air then take an o-ring pick or small screwdriver and depress the ball in the center to break it loose then it will take grease a lot easier, you also need to press on it straight and hard with the needle or it will just ooze out around the needle and not get any in the zerk.

I figure If it can pull brake cleaner in it will leak pressure out.

Well shoot, I guess now I need to replace the gasket for the intake cover.:banghead:Now that I got it all back together.:banghead:

Do the bolts that hold the rear engine lifting bracket on the head go through the intake housing and do they need thread sealer on them?Reason I ask is I just installed the scheid 100 hp injectors and was test driving and looking for leaks and when I spray things down with brake cleaner It is pulling it into the intake when I spray around the # 5-6 injector line/lifting bracket area.Intake cover and manifold area are ok but it is the area behind it that causes it to start sputtering when I hit it with brake cleaner, only thing I could think is if it was following the lifting braket bolts into the intake?Any ideas?

There are 13 states the EPA is trying to overrule. North Dakota having an extremely thriving economy with over a Billion in state surplus thought ahead knowing this day was coming and set aside a large sum of money during the last legislative session to take on the legal fight. The equipment they are trying to make coal plants install "Think of it like a calalytic conveter" Will not work with our Lignite coal. It does work on harder lower moisture higher BTU bituminous coal, But the EPA fails to recognize this. They think that if it worked on other plants they forced to install in other parts of the country that it will work here. What they want for standards is not even visible to the naked eye. Not to mention we in ND have nearly the cleanest air in the nation already. The power that ND supplies to several electric co-ops would greatly affect electricity rates in 6 states if the EPA follows through. Its not just a ND issue. this needs to be copied and pasted and spread far and wide. --- Update to the previous post... This site has a lot of information about the industry also. http://powerofcoal.com/

:lmao:Heh! I would like some pics of my 2 rigs in a show and shine condition, I sometimes forget what color they were when I bought them until my annual debugging and demudding. Tis life in the country, I drive 30 miles of gravel 5 days a week to and from work.

This is a Grass Roots effort to help keep the EPA from shutting down our countries most important energy industry. Below is a link to the site with a lot of information to get the unkowing started. http://www.stopepand.com/index.html If there are any questions feel free to post or contact me via PM. I will do my best to clear the confusion. Bill Dont' let the activists and propaganda machine fool you into thinking it is a health issue, the clean air act and the EPA's fight against the coal fired power industry addresses nothing but VISIBLE pollution.

I've got an II silver bullet 62 I am willing to part with. I am looking at down sizing to a little smaller turbo for better daily driver/tow rig qualities.

Check the relays and fuses, try swapping the tranny relay with another.

You can still send it to II just make sure you specifically let them know that the price they stated will be stuck to. If they do make repairs make sure you talk to them and discuss pricing before the repairs. I know of people sending in VP44 pumps to repair thinking that it would be chaper and when the final bill came they could have bought a reman from the a lot cheaper.

Nothing against II but I hope you got that figure in writing as they usually charge more for repairs than they do to sell you a different pump, I know of this happening with them on several occasions.

Yep you are 100% correct, you caught my brain fart on that detail, there is a loss of vaccuum when going from idle to accel once the plate opens and then builds up again as more rpms create more vacuum and there is a direct relationship to rpms and throttle plate position in regaurds to the amount of vacuum it will create. I have worked on detroits for years as I worked at a Terex dealership for a few years so I have personal experience on several occasions of standing right beside them when they run away. usually from a bad blower seal or turbo when they run away on oil or if they had an injector stick wide open with the old style injector rack that would lock all the injectors in wide open throttle. The new style racks were spring loaded so that when you pulled the shut down lever to put the injectors into no fuel if 1 stuck open then you could get all the rest to shut down and this was usually enough to slow it enough to kill it. You lost me with the turbo and shifting thing:shrug: Normally the turbo feeds air into the blower. I learned to drive truck in junior high with a 6-71 detroit and a manual 10 speed in a 1971 IH tandem axle grain truck.

The blower is mounted directly to the side of the block so there is no way to block it off unless it was removed completely and a cover put over the blower hole on the side of the block and a cover over the blower drive off the engine pto housing, plus it is a governed diesel so it will run at rated governed speed all day long with no worries of blowing it up unless it was oversped in gear going down hill too fast or down shifting too soon and causing an engine overspeed.

I think you mean a 6-71, I am not saying that it does't have a blower but I have never seen a 71 series without a blower, some ran with or without turbos but never saw one without a blower. the smaller 53 series run without blowers.

Actually acceleration or under constant throttle produces vacuum, decel or no fuel coasting is a vacuum loss. Having a vacuum line for accesories hooked to port vacuum versus manifold vacuum which is more consistant and constant will cause issues also. This is of course talking about carburated engines, Throttle body and other fuel injected engines are a bit different but you get the drift.

Nope, they are normally air operated, lots of older over the road trucks were air as well as lots of other types of equipment with air operated wipers.

Well got 150 miles of towing my pontoon to the lake and back and this is the first time in 4 years of owning this rig that it didn't peg the restriction gauge heck it didn't even move. Under normal driving with no trailer in tow it would pull it half way down so to do a heavy pull through hills for 150 miles and not have it move is great, I did notice conciderable less black smoke also.