Wild and Free

Last 4 of my rigs have been leveled and are just as stable and easy to drive if not more so than stock, its the ones with big tires and or lift kits of and over 4 inches that make me leery.

Some guys like those kinds of options and changes in geometry .............................Or are you talking pickups?

Yep, Those or the preformed ones are the cats meow, most parts jobbers carry them or truck shops, easy seal is the brand name but there are others I have seen. Resonator installs exactly like a muffler anywhere you want to cut a spot for but it is recommended as far forward as possible to cut the drone down the most, they have a flared end and a regular pipe size end. I found the drone the worst at slow speeds versus freeway speeds as the engine was working a bit more it seemed in our hills and wind we usually have.

Do the resonator with a 4" system and be happier for not having to deal with the drone whether you tow or not, Make sure to mount the resonator as close to the down pipe as you can, depending on how loud you want the exhaust they have 2 different lengths of resonator, I went with the 30" long one and it is still fairly throaty sounding so glad I went longer than shorter. Don't waste your money on a muffler that way too, 30" resonator will be all that's needed. seems once the factory exhaust is gone and 4' or bigger the drone is bad all the time.

Most didn't understand or know how to work on the bigger Cummins as they did things a bit different on the 855 / N14 / ISX and the L10 which turned into the M11 and ISM series and were not as simple as other engines. The 8.3 was like the 5.9 a very common probably the most common engines in the mid sized truck, bus and motor home coach market and were easy to work on and very reliable and bullet proof. I think I have worked on the 8.3 cummins more than any other engine besides the 3400 and 3500 series Cat engines over my career. The 8.3 was used in every application one can imagine, very extremely common in trucks, ag and construction equipment lines.

They are amusing critters at times................and really can pizzzzz me off at times, between my wife and mother in law there is always one or two on the farm at any one time, I have never really figured out if they are really smart or just good at figuring out how to get ones goat pardon the pun.......

I found very little as well but did come across a few sites with tid bits of info. Looks like they were built from 1975-1984 but never saw a diesel as an option on any I have seen, not saying it wasn't an option on the last few years possibly since the Wisconsin was air cooled a Deutz would be the best option to fit the same space. http://www.equipmentwatch.com/Navigation.do?product=SF&categoryId=4&category=Skid+Steer+Loaders&subTypeId=47&subType=Skid+Steer+Loaders&manufacturerId=2085&manufacturer=New+Holland&modelInstanceId=23988&modelInstance=L775+%28disc.+1984%29

You will need to use a few of the original clamps for the hangers. I recommend running a resonator from FTE diesel rather than straight pipe especially if you have an extended cab, much better option than a muffler and it kills the drone in the cab which a muffler will not while leaving a nice sound out the end of the pipe.

Boy that is an older unit after looking up some info on it, looks to be late 70's era, most I see came with a gas Wisconsin engine, have not come across a diesel one yet unless it was a repower. I would be leery of the hydraulic system on one that old, could wind up costing a lot to keep up and repair if it is well used and ill maintained.

Pretty much all skid steers are hydraulic driven orbit motors which drive chains going to all 4 wheels. Differences in some brands were the hyd pumps were belt driven but I am almost certain all are direct mount now meaning the pump is mounted to the engine in some fashion and have gone away from belt drive, Bobcat hung onto that the longest I think. New hollands are a bit more stable as they are bigger than most others with the arm design and a lot of times have a bit higher lifting capacity but most other brands now have similar designs and have caught NH in this category.

On my 2010 1500 hemi, I initially tried 1.5 inch levelling kit which was coil spacers front and back added about 2 inches to the front and the kit came with 3/4 inch rear coil spacers too. This was a bit much for the independent front suspension as I would get front axle CV shaft vibrations from the angle they were put into, I then took the spacers out of the front and bought adjustable height front bilstein struts and tried them on the highest setting which was about equal to the same height as the coil spacers but the geometry is a bit different lifting this way but the result was the same, still got CV shaft vibrations, dropped the struts down one notch and all is perfect and still got about 1.5 inch of level with the full ranch hand bumper, took me a few tries but eventually got it to where it needed to be. Any higher than this and I would have needed different upper control arms that are longer to accommodate the difference in extra angle which puts it into a lift category instead.

Not much changes when one can get over an inch difference in height from different factory OEM springs like plow springs for instance. My 02 sat 3/4 inch higher than stock with OEM plow package springs and that was with an extra 300 lb ranch hand bumper on it which dropped the front down about 1/2 inch from stock height with the OEM springs it came with. Solid axles like ours have a bit more leeway versus independent front suspensions.

There is a fine line between level and lift and I personally think from doing some sort of leveling on every one of my own last several rigs think 2 inches is the max on a level kit before needing other modified components as you are finding the geometry changes too much past 2 inches from my experience.

If you are using the tank module there is no gravity at work here at all, the pump has to "pull" it through the in tank module unless you are running a bottom tank sump which you need to cut a hole in the bottom of the tank to accommodate.

Sorry for the hijack Gamble but I need to vent/rant/ give life advice here hope you don't mind. Russ from reading every post you make in almost every thread about whoa is me issues you are having I gotta be honest here and speak my honest thoughts coming from taking care of my own mother who passed almost 2 years ago from complications of MS at the age of 63, she was diagnosed at age 19 just a couple months after my folks were married, I took care of her the last 10+ years, One word comes to mind reading all of your issues and having lived it through my own mother my whole life and seeing her own issues which I see through your own words.............................one word I have to recommend..........................CONDO . there comes a time when you gotta realize the obvious Russ. No dishonor intended but you should consider down sizing and get a handicapped accessible condo and live the easy life and quit the worrying, I am 99.99% sure your wife will love you for the decision as well as it will eliminate so much stress from your lives. My parents marriage ended just before their 25th anniversary as a result of my dad not wanting the lifetime commitment of caring for my mother I think and had an affair and left her. MS is a very unpredictable disease and the area I live in has a very high rate of it " my younger sister was diagnosed about 3 years ago as well which along with my mother and her family history of diabetes was part of my personal commitment t be a more healthy person" and I personally know about a dozen people with it and it affects all a bit different but the common thing is the frustration all who have it feel which I feel through your words. I hope you don't take these words as a bad thing but I have to be honest and let you know what I see from an outsiders view and having lived with a person my entire life who had the same ugly disease as you, I can relate more than you can imagine.

Your right my mistake on the temp range. Did some looking and found this on a site. I. Product Description CRC Copper Anti-Seize and Lubricating Compound is a general purpose anti-seize lubricant that prevents seizing and galling caused by high temperatures, heavy loads, vibration and corrosion. This unique formula has a smooth texture, fine particle sizing and familiar copper color, making it an excellent choice for closely fitted parts that need extreme lubrication. Regular use of Copper Anti-Seize will increase performance and prolong equipment life. II. Applications Recommended to lubricate fittings, bushings, flanges, headers, nuts, screws, studs, threaded surfaces, pipes, plugs, and manifolds to prevent seizing and galling of surfaces. III. Features & Benefits • Copper-Based. Safe for use on both ferrous and non-ferrous metals. • High Temperature Resistance. Protects parts up to 1800° F. • Electrically Conductive. Does not insulate and interrupt current flow. • Good Choice for Use on Soft Metal Applications. Does not compromise integrity of soft metals. • Will Not Harden. Heat aging won’t affect lubricity of product. • Facilitates Fast & Easy Disassembly. Saves time in taking apart components. I. Product Description CRC Nickel Anti-Seize and Lubricating Compound is a nickel-based formulation that is free of copper, lead, sulfides and chlorides. This premium high temperature lubricant protects metal-to-metal applications from seizing and galling caused by high temperatures, heavy loads, vibration, chemicals and corrosion. Chemically inert nickel formulation is safe for use with most chemicals that are unstable with copper. This product has extremely high temperature capabilities and excellent chemical resistance. Regular use of Nickel Anti-Seize will increase performance and prolong equipment life. II. Applications Recommended to lubricate metal-to-metal applications where a clean, chemically inert, copper-free formulation is necessary. Will not poison catalyst beds, reaction chambers, or special alloy fittings. May be used on fittings, bushings, flanges, headers, nuts, screws, studs, threaded surfaces, pipes, plugs, and manifolds to prevent seizing and galling of surfaces. III. Features & Benefits • Copper-Free Formulation. For use where a clean, chemically inert and stable lubricant is required. • Extremely High Temperature Resistance. Protects parts up to 2400° F. • Electrically Conductive. Does not insulate and interrupt current flow. • Good Choice for Use on Soft Metal Applications. Does not compromise integrity of soft metals. • Safe For Use on Both Ferrous and Non-Ferrous Metals. • Will Not Harden. Heat aging won’t affect lubricity of product. • Resistant to Mild Detergents & Alkaline Wash. Protects against rust and corrosion. • Facilitates Fast & Easy Disassembly. Saves time in taking apart components.

Copper is generally for high temp applications like exhaust studs ect. Yes it absolutely does affect torque, in my heavy duty mine equipment specs like Cat generally gives torque values of some fasteners dry, oiled and antiseized and where to and not to use any at all and it can make like d4l said 20-30% difference in torque values.

If it is not making noise, his relief may be getting weak or the pump efficiency isn't as good anymore both can be addressed by the mod, if this mod doesn't work then his pump could be beyond its life and time for replacement. Could be a plugged screen as well but he would find that while doing this mod as it comes out with the relief, it is part of it inside the fitting IIRC.

If one is maintaining the pressure it is set at volume of flow means nothing. Pressure = resistance to flow, one can have a pump that is capable of 1000gpg but if it only needs to supply 14 psi what good is it? I have been going to hydraulics classes for 25 years and the old school thought of teaching flow flow flow has been thrown out long ago where flow meters were the norm and flow was taught extensively, now I think most flow meters have long since been thrown away as all the science in the world can not overcome the simplicity of pressure being a result of resistance to flow, no pressure = you have a major leak, pressure regulating issues causing a bypass or return or pump issues not supplying enough flow.

Steering column bushings can cause some of this too as well as the shaft between the column and steer gear can become sloppy.

Did this mod on my 02 and it made a huge difference while driving around town and in tight parking lots. http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

There is a reason most all new spark plugs are nickel coated. Not needed as they build it into the plug material now days taking into account the dissimilar metals they are used in. In short a small and I mean small amount on the threads will not hurt but will not do much as you are putting nickel antiseize on a nickel plated plug.

Robbie knievil ?

I was just throwing out a general guess as to price, I didn't read the description to see the actual size, if you disassemble and reassemble to your liking would be better than moving it.

How big is your yard or property? Do you already own a tractor of some type be it lawn or bigger? From what you describe a tractor with snow blower would have had the job done in under a half hour and the snow would have been blown away from the driveway rather than piled up and causing other issues like drifts and hard icy berms if it is a long winter or back to back storms where pushing or plowing gets you into a bind of nowhere else to push the snow after a couple of moves.