Wild and Free

Tell him to trade it in on a new Kia, they push their 10 year 100K mile bumper to bumper warranty then the dealer can worry about it lol.

lol Posted this in the wrong thread first, copy and pasted here now. Here is our shop fuel primer setup. We pull fuel from a clean fuel can. This is a CAT electric fuel primer pump / filter head assembly with a 10 micron CAT water separator filter, this unit is used on most pieces of new CAT equipment. Just for reference The CAT part # for this medium sized engines primer/ WS filter kit is 206-5756. The hoses and stand and electrical was built here on site.

The chance of introducing dirt directly into the fuel system unfiltered through the center of the filter which is where the clean fluid is, most fill filters through the center hole not knowing how a filter works. If one can very carefully fill the filter via the outer ring from a known clean container without getting any dust dirt or debris which is about impossible as the damaging stuff can't be seen with the naked eye. A human hair is 10 micron in diameter just for reference. I have seen tools or a funnel type contraption someone sells that actually plugs off the center hole while filling the outer area of the filter.

I had the same issue with a huge Chinese elm tree next to my house had a 3 beam trunk and is about 3+ foot diameter at the bottom and about 75 foot tall, had a tree trimmer come take 2 of the 3 main trunk beams down that were hanging over the house and left the main trunk beam as it goes fairly straight up and slightly away from the house and it surprisilngly survived, I figured it for dead but it has even gotten thicker, these trees typically have a 40-60 year lifespan and this one is right there so the fact it has lived another 5 years and still going since taking 2/3 of it down are impressive.

I have to correct myself, it is the Mercedes engine in a Fr8liner that gives us the biggest headache and then as you said the detroits second we have issues with in our service trucks, don't have an OTR truck with a Volvo engine, but we do have an articulated Volvo off road truck.

Another thing that caused the price of diesel to be so much higher was the requirement of ULSD which greatly increased the amount of refining required and refining processes changed and the refineries needing to do many upgrades and changes all up the cost of diesel.

I was wondering because a lot use *** Coms to change the parameters of the PCV and EGR valves from what I read on other forums and this has resulted in eliminating the amount of oil sucked into the intake system causing plugged intake manifolds.

Some people can play Russian Roulette longer than others but eventually at some point the end result is the same. Cummins injectors can not pass any particles any bigger than anyone else , pretty much a zero tolerance system they may not have factory filtration quite as fine as cat but do not think the injectors can handle it. I will post pics of the innovation we came up with at work to prime fuel systems of rigs with no primer pump system. As far as OTR rigs we have the hardest time with the Volvo engines in our new service trucks, we have to use our primer unit to get these going. It is a Cat electric primer pump with 2 micron cat filter head with leads we hook to any 12/24v power source , we then use Cat pressure tap fittings tied into the fuel systems to prime them up. Biggest difference between your shop and mine is our engines run about 10-20X more to repair or replace and we try to get the most life from things as we can without adding variables that can cost a 250K rebuild as a result of old school thinking from what we used to do in the old days.

Tom have you used it to turn off or alter the EGR/ PVC settings as to prevent intake clogging any 1.9 l ALH 01-03 years TDI ? Wifes 03 Jetta TDI has 266K on it and I am wanting her to replace it next summer before its due for the next Timing belt and water pump, it is about due for a clutch, still has the OEM in it and could use a set of Nozzles but I just don't want to stick that much money in a rig with almost 300K on it. It still runs good and the body is still straight rust free and solid as a tank yet just want to get her into something newer, she doesn't want to part with it but she is coming around and starting to look at other AWD car options now. Neither of us are impressed with the new options VW has to offer especially when top mileage ratings of a lot of them on the stickers are only mid to high 30's. She is looking at crossover suv or awd hatchback something bigger with more cargo room than a compact car. She likes the look of the Nissan Juke a lot, after I bought a 2011 Nissan Murano X-cab convertible last fall she has an even fonder love of Nissan. We always try and rent one when we travel if they have the option and have always loved them over any Ford and Chevy offering. We had a 2015 Chevy Impala last month in Fl. and it was the biggest piece of crap we have ever had as a rental car, was brand new only had 900 miles on it when we picked it up. was very loud in the cab very uncomfortable to sit in and had the turning radius of an extended frame 379 Peterbilt.

VW makes AWD cars. You can throw the 50 mpg dream out the window though and expect high 30's especially with the newer ones. Can look into the chevy Cruz diesel as well. has been around for several years as well.

Don't rule out any older Mercedes diesels or Audis as well same as a VW.

I have ordered a lot of odd ball OEM only parts from them over the years and have had no issues at all. OEM put many different spring part #'s numbers on both sides of the front for some reason over the years.

Saw a second gen dodge with p7100 12v twin turbo mid mount engine built as a mud runner in Billings run a 10+- sec quarter and get sideways down the track every time he grabbed a gear too and that was with a 5 speed manual doing 3rd gear launches in 4X4. He worked for G&J diesel I think and was said to be in the 1100-1200 hp range but he never crossed the rollers the day I was there. That thing was crazy ugly but awesome at the same time.

I actually bought mine used I just threw up a link to show.

Posts #2 & 6 of this thread will answer first part and second I didn't notice any difference in ride compared to stock but hard to judge because I added the springs about the same time as the ranch hand so that may have made a difference, it may have rode rougher if I had not added the extra weight up front. After all it was a 3/4 ton 4X4 with E rated tires that runs wash boarded gravel roads all the time so ride is at the bottom of my worries. If I wanted a caddy like ride I would have bought a caddy...........................I am a realist.

They have money to throw away for injector failures and possible engine failures then.

If you do choose to dump the oil and filter prior to start up definitely prefill the oil filter being VERY careful to only fill it via the outer portion and let it filter through to the center on its own...... NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER FILL A FILTER OF ANY TYPE THROUGH THE CENTER OF IT AS THAT IS WHERE THE CLEAN FLUID COME THROUGH, FILLING HERE ADDS DIRT AND CONTAMINANTS DIRECTLY INTO THE SYSTEM TO GRIND AWAY AT EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THIS IS ESPECIALLY CRITICAL WITH FUEL FILTERS WHICH IT IS NOT RECOMENDED TO EVER PREFILL A FUEL FILTER EVER ANYHOW!

Looks good man. From my experience of changing out several sets of front coils you can expect them to settle in about 3/8 of an inch average from new over a month or so. You could have saved a few bucks on the track bar too by just getting an OEM style 3rd gen bar rather than an adjustable now you have a heim joint that will wear out and start clunking or rusty dry and squeak same as the junk OEM tie rod end on the stock rod where as with OEM has bushings in both ends, especially since it is not the style of hiem joint you can grease unless I can't see the zerk in the pic......................just saying. In the end on my 02 after the plow springs and the ranch hand it sat about an inch higher in front than stock and still had a slight rake to it and it still sat good with a load and didn't look nose high at all. On my 05 I just added 1.5 inch coil spacers with the ranch hand and it sits about 1 inch higher than stock with a very slight rake but almost level. I am not a fan of heim joints if you didn't notice, they just do not hold up like bushings do over the haul and abuse.

I hope he had his hip wader on as it sounded pretty deep with BS.

Most are 3 piece manifolds unless going with the one piece stainless ones. For what you are looking at I wouldn't worry about upgrading manifolds. Spend the money on tranny upgrades first and foremost. I also would not go with a triple disc converter, a high quality single disc will be more than plenty. I ran the BD single disc that has a rating of 450 hp and 750 tq behind 560 hp for many years of sled pulling and it held up perfect. If you want to spend the extra money for a tranny tear down for a billet input that's fine as long as the tranny is already out, I have seen stock inputs break on stock power levels that's a wild card item there I never had any issues with my stocker but I did snap my output shaft at a drag race once, replaced it with a billet.

Shouldn't have no worries, chances are it will crank over a few seconds before it fires so oil should already be priming and the turbo will not spin until after it fires so any residual oil will be plenty there but if it cranks for a few seconds before firing it will already have full flow there too. I would fire it before changing the oil, the longest period an engine will see with no oil is after a sump and filter change it can take a few seconds to fill and prime things then so on an engine that has sat for a while leave the oil and filter in place fire it warm it up and then drain it. Hit the key and have fun.

Does your 02 have a manual or auto tranny? When I was in trial mode as it progressed on my old 02 I can say a great combo for driving and towing was the BD super b turbo with edge comp hot unlock and I had 90 HP BD injectors but they would push the limits of egts, I suggest to most to stick with 60-75HP sticks and also upgrade the VB and converter on an auto and you would have an awesome running tow beast. With that setup I was in the 450 hp / 750 tq range IIRC, been quite a few years ago already. This was on an auto with SO pump. Over time I progressed to an II silver 62 turbo, 155 hp BD injectors ATS intake and exh manifolds and II HRVP44 I was at 560 hp / 989 tq and ran that for several years with lots of smiles and no issues at all although for towing I would suggest the II PS62 versus the Silver 62 for better low end boost and ease of controlling lower rpms egts unless one had 4.10 gears then the silver would have been perfect with the higher rpms.

It would be money better spent on other things on a stock rig as Ed said anything under 500 hp would be a waste of money. Looking at carls site he goes from pretty good prices of individual parts to down right flat out outrageous prices for some of the kits without turbos.

I would never run one but was just wondering, I know the under hood design and space would limit the practicality of it on 3rd and 4th gens. I have had excellent luck with the double deep pleated filters in the factory air box with the cold air mod to the bottom housing on my 05. On my old 02 the AFE stage 2 dry system was the best of the 4 different intake systems I had run over the years. Factory, K&N junk which almost cost me an engine luckily the UOA caught this one before it did, then an assembly of different things as an experiment of different types and finally on to the AFE system.

When my 02 was 100% stock I could get converter lockup shudder shudder at hard shift and once I added a mere edge ez I could totally slip the stock converter lockup clutch with only 25-30K miles on it with no load on it to boot just normal driving under hard accel.