Lone Watie

I've noticed that when I apply the brakes when coming to a stop that my steering wheel will oscillate slightly at slow speeds as I decelerate. Any ideas where I might start with something like this?

Take pics - I'm probably not as smart as you and might need lots of visual aids. I plan on giving myself 2 days to take Pvt. Murphy into consideration.

Good idea. You're not just whistling dixie on that are you?

We'll have to exchange notes on our installations.

Why so much for a thermostat? That seems a bit steep. Geno's has a 190º Gates for $16.95.

I took the plunge and ordered a fuel boss this morning from Glacier Diesel. I ordered and extra belt and the hobbs override switch. I'm not in need of a lift pump replacement yet, but having not upgraded my system yet, now's as good a time as ever. Also ordered new thermostat, hoses, water pump, and bosch alternator rebuild kit from geno's to stay ahead of power curve on that as well.I'll do my best to take some pics when I install the fuel boss and do a write up on the installation. Richard at Glacier Diesel, as has been numerous time reported both here and other forums, was great to deal with. He answered my emails promptly this morning and instilled confidence in my decision to go with his kit. I'll keep you all posted. I probably won't get it on this week unless all my parts come at the same time, as I want to do all of the above at same time. But, at least will be ready for my next week off.

+1 on the gould rebuild kit. For $60 you get a couple sets of seals if you mess one up, the pvc fittings for driving in the new seals, a dvd, and telephone support from Gould, I called him at least 3 times. Either way rebuild or not, you'll skin your knuckles and swear a bit getting them out/in.

I got 3 years out of the OEM starter; 11 out of the replacement from AutoZone.

I didn't have my receipt either, but after giving them the zip code where I bought the starter 11 years ago, they were able to pair up my name with the zip code and found it. You know for sure they don't expect people to hold on to a vehicle for so long, but they underestimate the love affairs we have with our cumminses (think hobbit:)). - - - Updated - - - I actually replaced my batteries a couple months ago thinking it was them going bad, and after doing a voltage test on them. But noticed that it still wasn't starting like it used to. Then 3 days ago she almost didn't start leaving work. I should have gone for the 'easy' fix first before going into a panic about the APPS or the VP (at least didn't replace those yet). It was that danged P0122 that threw me off the trail yesterday. Glad there are more pragmatic folks here to help keep us on the right track when diagnosing these things. I only smashed my thumb a little yesterday, some sore fingers, but otherwise was an easy fix.

No can pull start; it's auto tranny. In process of removing starter to run into town for diag. All connections look good. - - - Updated - - - - - - Updated - - - All is well. I pulled the starter and ran it into Autozone; it was bad. For once the lifetime warranty which I purchased 11 years ago paid off. They had to do some digging in their database as I bought it in Alabama many moves ago and they found it using a zip code from there with my name. Anyway, gave me a new one; came home slapped it on there and she fired right up. I made sure to reset the APPS before I started it to avoid any issues with that. Thanks for the advice this morning. I like easy fixes (well, had a devil of a time getting that top-mounted bolt out of the start, but a piece of PVC with a rubber mallet from below solved that).

Truck won't jump start off wife's car; was thinking maybe starter; it's 10 years since replacement. Will try that next, just have to get it off of there and run into town with it to Auto Zone.

When I first tried to start this morning, it acted like low battery, i.e. it was turning very slowly. Then, next time when I tried the engine start feature of my charger, it wouldn't even do that. I just did a voltage drop check on the batteries (used DVM, turned lights on for minute, then checked VDC, and got 12.16, which indicated low charge on batteries, so hoping that's the issue. RIght now I'm charging the batteries, and will use my wife's care to attempt a start in a few minutes, and check back. I can say that definitely had a P0122 but, now after disconnecting batteries for 30 minutes, that code hasn't come back. Will keep you posted. Thanks for the help.

Truck almost didn't want to start last night on way home from work. Got her started; good FP on way home (stock pumps), around 13-15 PSI. Got up this morning, started to crank, but no start. Turn key and won't even crank. Throwing a P0122 and so far nothing else. Just disconnected batteries couple minutes ago to reset APPS. Batteries are fairly new, 2 months old. Waiting the rest of the 30 min to try again, but looking for advice ahead of time. Will a dead VP44 always throw a code? I'm preparing myself for the worst with the VP, but hoping there's something I'm missing. If it doesn't crank again, I'll do the diagnostic on the APPS to check it out, once I get some more daylight. Already called in sick today to work this issue, but any advice is great. Thanks.

Thanks for the quick reply, which everstart do we need for our trucks? I'm sure can find one I need when I go there, but just doing some online searches until I get out for the day.

Looking for some battery recommendations for my 1999. I tried the search but didn't reveal too much, or I'm too obtuse to find them. I know I've seen some suggestions before, so any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

When you do the pump kit, here's a little tidbit that saved me some trouble. When you go to slide the reassembled pump assembly back into the timing gear housing, it's necessary to rotate the pump gear slightly to get it to mesh into place. I found it extremely difficult to do that while at the same time holding the gasket in place while lining up the mounting holes for the bolts. As Pete mentions in the video you almost need 3 hands for this process. Fortunately, I had a helper, but still found it difficult. What I did was rotate the alternator ever so slightly by hand with 15/16 socket like when doing a valve lash adjustment, while at the same time my helper kept pressure on the pump assembly and she slid right into place. Just thought I'd put this out there for anyone who might get some use out of it.

Just wanted to make another plug for Pete's awesome kit. Another satisfied customer here with the instructions, video, and 'tools' to get the old seal out. My driveway hasn't looked this clean in months, and of course, she's a happy truck not dripping oil down onto the axle. I must have called Pete about 5 times when I did the repair and he was happy to help out every time.

Thanks for the great info. I'll check out Gould's again. I was there last year, but had no need then for this. Glad I got my bike done so I can ride this week and let my old girl rest on the driveway until I can get that fixed. It definitely looks doable, just PITA with all the lines and wires in the way. I'll keep you all posted how it goes.

So, I've done some searching here, and cleaned and looked under the truck. It is dripping oil directly from where the vacuum pump mates with the P/S pump, so think I have that nailed down to needing one of Geno's rebuild kits. But, new question, it appears that the oil is engine oil and not P/S fluid. Is this correct? Thanks. - - - Updated - - - So, according to Geno's garage it is engine oil, so answered my own question. I'm thinking of ordering their vacuum seal rebuild kit with the DVD. Has anyone used this kit? Is it worth the $60, or can I get the seals cheaper and find a way to get them in there without the fancy looking PVC stuff http://www.genosgarage.com/GOULD-VACUUM-PUMP-RESEAL-KIT-96-02/productinfo/GOULD%5FVPRK%5F9602/ Thanks.

Hi all. I haven't been on here in several months. Was rebuilding my motorcycle. Anyway, it appears that my power steering lines are leaking pretty bad, and looking for any advice on best way to change them out. I'm not sure yet which one is leaking as I need to clean it up and take a better look. Is there anything special I need to know? Thanks.

Could be a pinched wire by the sensor. Did you replace the sensor with the bearing, or remove the old one and reinstall? If removed old and reinstalled, could be wire got damaged and shorting out from the removal process. If all is well, have Midas check with their snapon ABS scanner, maybe they'll even reset it for you. I know most inexpensive scanners won't do ABS codes.

My NAPA was a Timken, if I remember correctly. I know I asked, and remember seeing it on the bearing, so you should be good to go. Even with my military discount, I didn't beat $180 from Napa. Nice to save a few bucks.

I had the same thing happen, and was a little worried at first, but she slid back in there and everything's been working fine for over a year. You should be okay.

Timken bearings are decent. Rockauto, as Mike said, has best internet prices. Napa will have it for around $100 more I believe. Do you have ABS? If so, might as well get the ones that have the sensor included, costs more up front, but will save in long run if sensor goes bad down the road.

Thanks - I'll give that a try as well, after I try the APPS reset, and probably before I go snipping wires and adding grounds...