Lone Watie

I started having the infamous up/down shifting around 43-47 mph this afternoon. I've found the link for recal'ing the APPS, but the links are dead for the ground wire mod. Can anyone steer me in the right direction for this? I plan on taking the troubleshooting one step at a time tomorrow. 1st will try the APPS reset 2nd will try the alum. foil around passenger battery to alternator wire 3rd would like to try the ground wire if the above fails to fix her up 4th will replace APPS if needed as last resort Anyone care to chime in and let me know if I have these steps in the right order? Thanks in advance for any tips. --- Update to the previous post... Forgot to mention that it's not throwing any codes... --- Update to the previous post... I also plan on checking the horn relay in the tranny spot, and vice versa. --- Update to the previous post... As for the file for the ground wire mod, I have the files now. Just had to re-invert my head from the cranial-anal inversion position it was stuck in, and click on download file.

That's kind of what I thought, just needed a confirmation. Thanks to all for the explanations. I'll have to wait on the cable, though, as given my recent experiences with the cold here in Flagstaff, I believe an aftermarket fuel pump would be more prudent first.

Been following this thread, as I'm interested in this posi-lock cable, but could someone please in layman's terms explain this 2LO you all keep writing about - I think I have it, but need someone to put it into dummy terms for me. Thanks.

Well, that only leaves gelled fuel as the cause of my fun this weekend. My old girl had never experienced anything that cold before and scolded me bad and taught me some good lessons.Thanks for the info.

Quick question - for those who followed my mini-saga of my truck not starting this weekend. My common sense tells me it was the extreme cold here in Flagstaff that caused my truck to die on the road requiring a full system bleed to get her going again. But, I keep reading about the 1/4 tank issue and want to rule out the possibility that it died from fuel starvation. When the truck died on Friday morning, it had just over a 1/4 tank according to gauge, and my SGII told me I still had 109 miles left before empty (the SGII has been very accurate, and I have had problems with fuel level gauge past couple weeks). My question is what exactly is the 1/4 tank issue, and in spite of the cold temps, is it possible that the truck 'suffered' from starvation and not the extreme cold (0 F)? I'm glad I got her running again, but I could never really ascertain if my fuel was gelled or not, as by the time I got her in my garage, and got the filter off and drained, it didn't appear gelled. I did replace the filter as it looked a little strange, but I'm not entirely convinced it was the cold. Last night I filled her up and it took 15 gallons (added to the 10 I put in during my ordeal) that would leave 9 gallons left in it when it died Friday. Is 9 gallons of fuel sufficient to cause the 1/4 tank issue?Thanks again for all the support during my weekend, and I'm glad to have her back on the road. I was about ready to give up on the VP yesterday morning when I tightened the injectors back up, cranked one more time and she coughed - sputtered - and came back to life for me. The greatest sound in the world, and no new VP for now - but looking at the AirDog in the near future after over a year of putting it off.By the way, the lift is putting out a nice 14-15 psi normal operation, maybe swinging down to 11-12 during heavier applications, and idling at 15.

Loosened, did several cranks with no luck, never really saw any fuel jetting out, about ready to give up, retightened, 10 second crank - coughed and started.Hopefully, she'll stay running -Appreciate all the support from everyone.

I'm getting ready to bleed my injector lines 3,4,5 per FSM. Couple quick questions:1. The FSM says to loosen lines 3,4,5 - how much is considered loose enough - 2. once they're loose is when I crank starter 30 seconds at a time until starts and runs.Never done this before so bear with my questions - just want to do this correctly.I didn't mess around with the truck at all yesterday as had family visiting for New Years, but ready to get on it again today.

What is best way to check if VP44 is putting out pressure with truck not starting? Is this possible? Is it possible that the VP44 is damaged without throwing a code (i.e. The next most common MECHANICAL failure is that the rotor seizes in the distributor section of the pump. I should note here that all previous rotary style pumps have had this problem too, to varying degrees. The most common cause and most accepted reason for this failure on rotary pumps is lack of lubrication due to running out of fuel or the possible lower lubricity of the newer low sulphur fuels. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/injectionpumpfailures.html Is it possible that the fuel starvation from gelled fuel could have done the above quoted stuff from blue chip? Thanks for all the continued support and guidance. There's a reason why I go here now instead of the other forums for straight talk.

I drained the filter again and reprimed/bled system via filter. My lift pump is putting out 16-17 psi when I bump starter to prime. Now my battery is draining so will have to recharge that, but still now start, and still no codes.

Have not got truck started yet. PS 911 on bottle says to fill filter canister 1/2 911, 1/2 clean fuel. Been in garage for few hours now with heat on there. Last starter bump got me almost 12 psi, up from 1-2 earlier. Will drain filter in morning to get rid of PS911, and start priming with straight fuel. Can do nothing about the 911 in the tank already. Still not throwing any codes. Does it look like I'm heading in right direction? Should I be okay - I don't know answers, but doing best I can to save VP44. Do I need to crack injector lines to see if VP44 is sending fuel their way? Any other things haven't done yet I can try? thanks. --- Update to the previous post...

Temp was around 5-10 F last nite, will check codes and pull canister as you suggested, I have it sitting in garage now trying to get it heated up a bit. Thanks.

Really cold here in Arizona last night - single digits - truck started, let her warm up a few minutes, went on down the road and died - believe it might be gelled fuel and need guidance on best course of action. Any help appreciated. Thanks. --- Update to the previous post... Forgot to mention I had it towed home and is sitting in garage right now.

Try this part number: 4687558, should be less than 10 bucks. Hope this helps. I don't know about the tools; it should disconnect if you pull it out of the frame hole a little bit. I just had mine off few weeks ago, wasn't too bad. Tip - put a zip tie or something around the wire once disconnected so it doesn't fall into the frame hole. I didn't find out the hard way, fortunately, I'm getting smarter as the days go by. Let us know if that part number works out for you, if not, post the correct number if you get it. Looking at this web site, http://store03.prostores.com/servlet/afterworkauto/the-108/1992-dsh-2003-JEEP,CHRYSLER,DODGE,PLYMOUTH,Door-Jamb-SWITCH/Detail, it looks like the correct part number.

Can you elaborate a little on 'drain back'? Thanks. I did let mine drain for a long time, also.

That makes sense. But my question still remains, how come when I refilled after a simple drain/fill/filter it's needing more than 4 quarts? All I did was drain the pan including pulling the pan as I didn't have a drain plug installed yet, and replaced the filter. I do know that when I drained it, it seemed like more than 4 quarts drained out, but I didn't measure it. Is it possible that more than normal drained out of the entire assembly without doing a flush? Thanks.

No, it's not pints. I just drove out to work and back today with a total of 5 quarts I put in, and she's still reading mid-way on the dipstick, so put another quart in. Perhaps yesterday when I drained it, more fluid drained out than normal. I don't know. I do know I don't want to overfill it, but definitely want the appropriate amount of fluid in there. The guy at autozone told me that the 14 quart capacity is for a complete flush of the system, which I definitely didn't do yesterday.

Yours seems correct; I'm just curious why the alldatadiy website calls for 14 quarts, as that would seem to be way too high. All the other stuff on alldata has been right in line with the FSM, so kind of bothered that they call for 14 quarts on a tranny which is subject to the effects of overfilling/aeration, and all the trouble that comes with it.

I finally got around to my tranny fluid/filter yesterday with ATF+4. Just a quick question, Mike's website states 4 quarts for the capacity, but the alldatadiy.com website calls for 14 quarts, which I know is way too high. However, with just 4 quarts after my refill, it did read a little low when I checked it. Just curious. On a side note, I tapped a drain plug from Geno's into the pan, and very happy I did for the next time. I made minimal mess without the drain plug, but probably just got lucky, but nonetheless a pain waiting for it all to spill over into the drain container.

Sounds good, thanks for the quick response.

One more thing, my FSM calls for ATF+3 (47RE), but your website calls for ATF+4. Is there any harm in moving up to +4? I know this has been covered but can't search right now, as have to head out to auto parts store for some fluid. Thanks again.

Yes it does help. Many thanks.

Is there a torque sequence and value for putting the auto tranny pan back on after servicing? Thanks.