Ed ke6bnl

I do not think you can have the truck smogged with a code, and you need to clear the code and get a certain number of miles on it to be acceptable one time it was about 50 miles not sure what it is now. maybe a light bulb in place of the pump may be acceptable.

I also have a momentary switch at the gas pedal the activates the EB when throttle is released and turns off the EB when you are on the throttle

On my 98.5 I used the c clamp and just took a bar that was about 2.5in by 2feet and cut a section out to fit the nut. I did first remove the fan blade and it slid out and then removed the big nut in about 15 min. putting it back was a little longer just trying to get the bolts on the fan. I did make a couple of studs for temp use to hold the blade in place till I got the other bots started.

Never have had a leak for the past 5 years. mine has a pin that locks the ring that holds the can so it can not come loose.

I have been hearing horror stories about snow who makes a good system and safe one as well

I was in a rush I was heading out for vacation with a pin hole leak in the radiator the only fast replacement was Autozone and it has been in for some 4 years. so far so good. not drive much but driven hard as tow rig only. WAS MUCH LIGHTER THEN OLD ORIGINAL.

I am running one and the oil seems to stay cleaner, just feel good about it. time will tell.

I had batteries going down even after replacement, I never got around to check the milliamp draw when truck is sitting but installed a maintenance charger on the truck. and like you the truck is used for hauling my 5th wheel and some hauling of cars and loads.

I have a front hitch receiver and put in a platform to walk across for working on the engine.

I have the cheapo from O'Reillys for a couple of years now no problem I read the temp from the Scangage. not sure how easy or accurate the stock cage is to read from the truck dash.

I went to pismo and didn't take any air out but I just did the river crossing and some sand with good speed not out in the deep hilly slow stuff, thats for the buggy Maybe take it out later if you need to.

You can get more pressure with the nitrogen and it is cheaper then the refrig. can probably put in 175psi. I propane fired leak detector may be the best way to go. cheaper and dependable and works great no patteries. They use a venturi to draw the air/refrig. in and they use the fact that the heated copper plate on the tester will turn the Refrig. to phosgene gas(muster gas) and turn green indicating a leak. charge it and place in the evap. housing and wait for a green flicker of the flame. Refrig is heavier then air will settle to the bottom. ED

I have that hitch and there is still room to put on the steering box bearing support which is a nice item

If you move up to a higher rating tire D,E you must be sure the rims of the trailer can accept the increase pressure that you gain with the higher tire pressure ED some are stamped on the inside for max rating.

DTT transmissions makes a filter for this purpose http://www.dieseltrans.com/. My truck came with it and the DTT trans. so I only speak of others that have used it successfully, along with checking for good grounds. Alternator interference is a major cause of the problem. ED