Me78569
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Everything posted by Me78569
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you have the wrong vehicle profile selected in the app. All the tunes hosted here are for the 2.5 1998-2002 profile. You can open the downloaded json tune file and change the name from 2.5 1998-2002 to the profile you are using and make it show up. -
The datalogs speak for themselves. Anything over sw3 just results in a light switch for a throttle pedal. Sw3 didn't max fueling and I didn't see a timing curve that I would personally run. If you haven't been happy yet with a tuner you won't be. The ez and xzt do the exact same thing. If I was you I would just keep what you have. I don't think the smarty is worth the risk on stock headbolts.
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The s03 tends to shove all the fueling between 0-30 % throttle input then nadda after that. The timing maps are worrisome as well. Very aggressive at very low rpms and high load. Very hard on head gaskets Did a lot of logging. You can see the amount of pedal movement needed to Max fueling. In some cases as low as %25 throttle movement
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Yea pretty much
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set the meter to ac with resolution to 0.000v ac. measure power on the alternator charge lead to ground and see what value it reports. I think anything over 0.03 is a fail on the diodes
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@GSP7 well you must have broken youtube hahaha Yes you can with a fluke set it to .000 ac resolution
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@Marcus2000monster may I ask why you are looking to buy that S03 to replace your edge?
the wts light is the sign the ecm is triggering the relay. It doesn't know if the grids are connected.
The struggle is real I understand. The quadzilla tuning really shines if you want to play wiht tuning and if you need to control your injectors. on a near stock truck the perks aren't as big. Of course I want you to run my tuning, but I understand the issues justifying.
@jlbayes are you saying that given that the vp makes power in the 2k-2600 rpm area there may not be any need for more itming to make more peak power?
bucking is a result of too much timing at a given load vs rpm. if you get bucking pay attention to what your engine load is, and if it is above or below your light throttle limit % setting in the tune. That will tell you how to fix the issue. the vp44 can adjust timing itself, but only related to fuel temp and I would be shocked if it was more than 1* +-. more timing really can help in the right spot My dap's are running pretty good for being budget injectors. I would love to try a set of weston injectors but his $$ is more than I can justify on my old piece of garbage. He also wont adjust pop pressure to the spec I want. DAP would. You might find this thread interesting.
So what we have found is that each truck seems to be a little different haha. If you have studs I would feel free to play with timing as much as you like without worry. Keep timing below 17* pre1500 rpm on heavy throttle.beyond that I doubt anything bad will happen. My truck really like 24-25*at 2500 rpm and heavy throttle. Then after that I can just max timing. My truck also likes alittle less timing at cruise state than most. 20-22* between 55-65 is about right. 14-15* is nice in the passing area of the map when boost is low and I am trying to get the turbo to light. Then 17*-18* once the turbo is lit and I am starting to ramp up fueling in the 1500-2k area. For a curve for trucks with studs. 1500: 17* 2000: 20* 2500: 25* 3000: 29* Max: 30* Fuel load 2* and light throttle at whatever you truck likes at cruise. If you get bucking on heavy throttle increase fuel load. Would you mind making a video of how you trucks drives smoke wise? Ilike to compare stuff. Stock vs quad tuning compares are awesome.
I would personally. The amount of meat you gain under the curve is huge when you step up to bigger injectors. Then you tune to control how much and at what point you want the fuel.
yes you can do what you want in the tune. I doubt you will have to do much to "control" the 50's. at this point I recommend nothing less than 7 x .010's
Here is a ever growning list of tools that come in VERY handy when working on your cummins. First and Foremost, Knipex 86 03 250 Parellel Jaw Plyers The key to these plyers is unlike channel lock plyers the jaws on these stay parellel all of the time. They run right about $50, but we promise they are worth 3x that. Once you use a set of these they will become the single most loved tool in your toolbox. These plyers allow you to put even and steady clamping force on any size object. Chads Toolbox sells these at the best price A GOOD Multimeter is a absoulete requirement for working on a Cummins powered vehicle. You want a True RMS multimeter to check for things like AC noise. Most Flukes will do that. I personally use this with good results EXTECH EX470 I like it because it has a built in IR temp gun. this is VERY handy for tracking things down like a dead cylinder It runs about $100 on amazon
When CPP did this back in the day ( without the code changes to make it streetable) he did not say anything about a mismatch code. It should set a cel though... thinking our loud.
mulling this over I think you are right.
@kzimmer @jlbayes @trreed Another thing I have been thinking about. the vp has 30* of possible timing ring travel. Our trucks idle at ~12* of timing and I have seen as low as 10* on stock tuning. I have pulled it lower than that, down to 3* but anything lower than 8* just results in white smoke. so the usual timing range we have is ~10*- 30* leaving that 0 - 10* of ring travel unused. I see no real need to run less than 10* of timing it would be REALLY easy to write in a 10* retard offset for the timing commands, then change the timing gear by 2 teeth resulting in 10* of advanced timing. the result would be a useable timing range of 10*- 40* do you think there is any point? would more timing help given that the vp44 stops making power above 3k?
Huge thanks to AKshooter for writing this up. Ok, recent thread on here drove me past the point of looking at wiring diagrams and giving direction. Somethings are just easier explained with pictures and tested against a known good working system. So in an effort to help others, I tore my own truck apart in the dark outside in Alaskan November temperatures with a few simple test tools, a head lamp and an IPhone camera so bare with me if the pictures aren't the greatest. I do prefer that testing be done test light when possible. A meter is useful tool but if you don't 100% completely know how to use/test with it you can easily be lead in the wrong direction. Just throwing that out there from 11 years now of turning wrenches for a living. See it happen all the time. No current flow no voltage drop. Testing circuits when they are loaded is best. First of all you are going to have to look at a diagram, going to make you. On this diagram we can see - Powertrain Control Module or PCM - Controls Alternator Fields (Turns the alternator on/off) - Power Distribution Center or PDC - Fuse box under the hood - The Generator or Alternator - If you need this explained.... 1. There is a Black/Grey Wire between the Gen/Alt and the PDC which contains the 140amp fuse and then a red wire to the battery. This is the large charge wire that electricity flows from the Gen/Alt to the 140amp fuse in the PDC and onto the battery. This is the large wire on the large stud on your Gen/Alt and you should have battery voltage or alternator output voltage on this stud. Check the fuse if you don't, or wires associated with that circuit. 2. Now into the meat of things, there are two wires from the PCM to the Alternator. - Here is the two pin plug that plugs into the back of the Alternator, notice the Green and Dark Blue Wires. - The dark blue wire is the voltage supply to the Generator fields. Meaning this is a positive wire and should have 12V on a meter or light a test light like this when the test light is hooked to battery negative as in the picture. (A meter would be the same with the negative lead) Engine MUST be running, key on engine off does not work for this test. *For demonstration purposes pictures are taken with engine off so the test light is not lit in these photo's.* - The green wire is the control wire, meaning the PCM grounds this wire to turn on or off the alternator fields (DO NOT THINK YOU CAN JUST JUMP THIS TO GROUND FOREVER TO BYPASS THE PCM IT WILL FRY LOTS OF STUFF BECAUSE THE ALTERNATOR WILL BE FULL FIELDED TO 16+ VOLTS) This is a ground circuit so with the truck running a test light or meter hooked to battery positive should show 12V or light like this. If you have power on the blue wire while the engine is running and can hook 12v to ground on the green wire while the engine is running and voltage on the large stud your alternator is bad, but if you don't have one of the other......... This is where the PCM lives behind your air filter box, notice I removed mine for better access, TURN THE KEY OFF before disconnecting The connector closest to the passenger side is the Grey C3 connector. The Connector in the middle is the White C2 connector. Reference the wiring diagram at the PCM. We are concerned with pin 25 in the Grey C3 connector as it is the opposite end of the dark blue wire at the alternator. We are also concerned with pin 10 of the White C3 connector as it is the opposite end of the green wire at the alternator. NOTE - The connectors have a locking tab on the top and bottom, do not force, use shop air if need to blow out dirt so the locks release and you can unhook the connectors. Noticed the pins are numbered, double and triple check your are on the correct pin when testing. Grey C3 shown here White C2 shown here Now using your meter set it to continuity or resistance test and check between pin 25 in the Grey C3 connector and the BLUE wire pin at the alternator plug. There should be a connection between these two pins. Next test the Pin 10 of the White C2 connector to the GREEN wire pin at the alternator plug. There should be a connection between these two pins. Meters vary from make to make as to what they will read (some beep) when showing continuity vs an open circuit. Simple test is to simply look at what the meter says when the leads are not touching each other..... like this. VS With the leads touching each other. (no resistance, good connection) This is what you want to see when testing both of your wires between the PCM and Alt plug Now if these wires both test good, more than likely your PCM is bad. To be 100% positive it is the PCM, I would pull the plastic cover off of the C2 and C3 connectors and back probe the blue and green wires and see if you have 12Vs that way, this would eliminate the entire harness and test only the PCM. How you go about fixing the issue is up to you. With the manual transmission trucks that is all these two wires do. BUT with the Automatic trucks notice in the diagram that the BLUE wire also powers the transmission relay through a splice. I'll try to update this with information as to PCM repair or external voltage regulator solutions. Now if these wires both test good, more than likely your PCM is bad. To be 100% positive it is the PCM, I would pull the plastic cover off of the C2 and C3 connectors and back probe the blue and green wires with the harnesses plugged in and see if you have 12Vs that way, this would eliminate the entire harness and test only the PCM. How you go about fixing the issue is up to you. With the manual transmission trucks that is all these two wires do. BUT with the Automatic trucks notice in the diagram that the BLUE wire also powers the transmission relay through a splice. I'll try to update this with information as to PCM repair or external voltage regulator solutions. Hope it answers some questions. Engine running for testing at the plug. Key off before unhooking PCM.
I would "guess" 10 amp would work, but the quadzilla is keeping hte cirucuit powered on for Turbo timer functions. The quadzilla uses power for wiretap control from the battery line. I kinda double wiretap requires more than 10 amps, but just keep that in mind.
I wish I knew more about the fluid dynamics involved to understand as well. If we could only figure out how to make money off of spending time figuring it out hahaha. I think it is old dog new trick syndrome. Its too late in the game to change things now for the masses but maybe some will gain insight, or at the very least my curiousity will be filled.
Good call I forgot they closed down during the winter.
well my theory 1. is as we increase pop pressure we are making the total injection event shorter. 2. the better atomized fuel likely ignites faster ( maybe counter act the delay i the pop event??) 3. I think it makes the timing tuning less forgiving as the detonation event is closer to start of injection event( just theory) I believe that if you are able to flow the desired amount of fuel then I see no "limit" to the efficency gain. as we increase pop pressure we are shortening the total duration, this is not the same as cr truck as they control open and close event, but just increase the "static" rail pressure. The vp is taking pressure from nearly 0 bar to 1700 bar every stroke. question is does pressure in the stroke event ramp up semi linearly? How much duration are we cutting off per bar of increased pop pressure? is that extra 30 bar of pop pressure actually creating a noticable difference in the overall length of the injection event? Another Big question I have is why has no one done this until now? Was it just wasted effort because they couldn't control fueling so smoke issues were unavoidable with big boy injectors? That Comp D thread I started made it seem like I was ignorant for wanting to try because it was "well known" to cause issues.
I wouldn't worry I have unplugged my box literally 1000's of times without issues. It's not a bad idea, just not really needed. I dont however know the draw of a quad box.
