Me78569

I would suggest just going with a big line kit from Vulcan.

Alright, Bug has been fixed. Timing is doing what it should be doing above 3500 rpm. If your truck sees 3400+ rpm I would suggest you update to the lastest hardfule or standard fuel tune. Well really I would suggest updating to keep up with the jone's The flash is posted in the download section.

1400 - 2400 rpm 40 -80 mph stable speed stable load stable boost.

I see 12k turbo speed at idle if warm. Driving shaft speed is ~40-70k WOT 120k I used a seeedsheild, but it was an older one that used pin 10. I know some newer shields use pin 9, but if you are seeing vane movement then you are fine.

update 3/6/17 I opened my stupid mouth and I found a bug. It appears that if you are over 3500 rpm you might encounter a rogue value that causes timing to do funky stuff. I am working on it now. On the bright side I turned 3668 rpm so I must be a sled puller

I am sure I have asked this before, but can you feel this idle issue or is it audible only?

sorry just looked up the versions. You want version 1.11 for the uno that will have all the features.

I would just keep using your uno. I used a mega so I could control lockup and EB at the same time, plus some other stuff I haven't gotten to yet. The 1.06 code ( or whtaever it is) has the same base code so you really aren't missing much.

Update 3/5/2017 nothing to report..... I would call things stable. @Carbur8tr Spent a good deal of time today watching timing. I can say without a doubt that we are in "safe" realm for timing. have you ever run a smarty on your truck? if so did it ever do this timing knock?

You can see the code changes in the version.txt file in the download section. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B46GXQ9arT2lfmR2RXZLQXlBWmRiRU5OS044VXpBNkxiYmpqUy1tc01hZFdaM2RvQU9mcUE Note that after version 1.05 or something the code was designed for a mega board rather than a uno. I am guessing that your shaft speed issue was related to that. As for your manual vane settings, did you get a linear 10k pot or a guitar 10k pot? sounds like the pot is not linear or the pot is bad.

I would chat with FASS also.

host the image on photo bucket or similar. Boost leak test Boost elbow come back and tell us what you find.

I totally get what you are saying, I am like a 2 year old hitting the chime test button and giggling like an idiot. seriously A++ work here man.

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

it very well might be.

@Carbur8tr I %100 agree. I am fairly sure that your truck, being an ho, needs a 1*-2* offset of timing compared to ours. I am all but sure the HO pumps are advanced in their design. The only thing I am pretty dang sure of is that we aren't going to run into issues with the current way timing is working. If the old Quadzilla tunes weren't blowing head gaskets left and right I very much doubt we will now. I data logged the old stuff and just laughed. It might be that 20* is too much timing for cruise state for some guys. Mine doesn't seem to care, but my auto keeps the truck loaded at idle so I might never hear or encounter it. Dunno I am very glad that the vp44 is "user friendly" when it comes to tuning. I made some mistakes in code that maxed out timing at 30* under 1500 rpm lol and nothing bad happened. I am sure prolonged at that would, but overall the system seems pretty "nick" proof.

What i am stuck on is Tyler datalogged the smarty and nothing we are doing with the current "recommended" timing curve is more aggressive than what the Smarty is doing. Also consider the way the quad used to add timing was purely oem + a mapped value from the timing limit. You would easily see 25+ * of timing by 2500 rpm. Not saying you aren't right or wrong, just thinking through what we are doing now vs before to try and spot what is different. I think the reason why timing is so high when cold is to allow enough time for the Intake air to heat up enough to fully combust. If I set static timing of says 12* the truck idles like garbage and I get a TON of white smoke when cold. without that high timing the truck simply doesn't run well. Once you get a little heat in the engine then this is no longer and issue. Now as to why OEM timing is held so low under high load, I am puzzled by it. I would figure that the timing map would need to be more linear, why ramp up timing so rapidly at ~2200 rpm? truly puzzling. If we look at efi live the timing maps are always pretty linear once the turbo is lit. I dunno I am open to thoughts on it all.

Setting cruise timing to 0 will disable cruise timing and revert to your base timing, not OEM timing. lvl 2 + is when you get your timing, lvl 1 is oem timing. The Quad does not use OEM timing anymore after temp is reached and above 1500 rpm. From 1000 to 1500 it will use oem as the low limit and your 1500 as you high limit so timing should be very similar low in the rev range to oem. What I have found when watching OEM timing is it really wants to keep timing at ~11-12* of timing when you get on the throttle until ~2400 rpm. everything I have tried makes me think that it is too low for performance. The way you are thinking about having timing work was the orginal v2 tuning. I remember you telling me how much better throttle response was after the update for the timing curve stuff, IE throwing out OEM timing. The fueling code is %100 the same before and after that change. I am forced to believe your findings were due to bringing up timing under load / boost coming up slightly. You can test your theory by setting your timing curve how you want it. You should be able to emulate the oem curve pretty close by setting max at 1500 rpm of 14, 2000 at 16 then 2500 at 22 and so forth. Then set timing reduct to 5* and scaling to %80 Then fuel load to 2* I will say data logging the Smarty people seem to always agree the timing curve needs to come up faster than OEM allows for.

That's great news! glad you got her figured out.

no worries. I've had 8 months of coding this garabage to understand it lol.

first you need to seperate in your mind cruise state and performance state in terms of timing maps If cruise state is enabled all timing variables are set to 0 except cruise timing, if cruise is disabled then it is set to 0 and you get the others. It is always one or the other, never both. Cruise timing needs to stay stable and linear to ensure you get the best MPG possible. However this means you can't use cruise timing when under load because cruise timing is not good or safe for high load situtations. this is why the boost limit variable was created to ensure that if you top that limit cruise will disable and you are left with your performance timing curve. Timing reduction pulls timing ONLY if TPS is high and boost is low. So that is for when you jump on the throttle off boost the Quad will pull timing to help spool the turbo. once boost is up timing reduction does to %0 and it is not used. You canset timing reduction to a higher * without pulling your timing to low when you are just poking around town. I would suggest you data log to see what timing does in these situtations. You will under the tuning better. You will clearly see timing drop if you get on the pedal when boost is low.

you can also just bump your pump low boost scale psi up to be above your typical DD psi. however at low speeds when cruise timing is not in effect I doubt very much that wiretap will alter mpg very much....as long as you are not on the heavy pedal. at 55 -75 I could see it drop mpg if it was always running.

well that depends if your wiretap settings are preventing wiretap from applying during your cruise state then it won't. In terms of MPG I have yet to see anything that shows me wiretap can raise MPG when you have control of timing. My tunes all have wiretap not being applied when I am at cruise state pump low boost scale psi: 8 is above my cruising psi amount so wiretap does not apply until you hit 8 psi. If your tunes are build in a way that wiretap is on during cruise state then less wiretap will often help mpg because you simply don't need wiretap fueling at cruise state. Now before our trucks typically got their best MPG with the tuners cranked, but that was actually a result of load dropping due to less tps needed to keep moving. This would make the ecm run a higher timing number and thus better mpg.

I haven't had time to get any of them built. Life gets the in the way whenever I get some free time.