Me78569

Did you use the valve cover hold down bolts to thread into the injector and pop it up?

I updated the link in the windows 10 thread to have that file. the above link was pre release for testing, once it passed the tests I rolled it to release.

I am glad they work well. I wasn't sure they would. @Dieselfuture I try to keep the latest stable flash in that thread. The defueling is a part of the base tune so nothing else is needed.

It's in the windows 10 thread

your guess is as good as mine lol if .55 as better then stick with that and tell me to shutup

I woudl wager that your MPG will come up if you bump your cruise timing to ~2-3 rather than .55.

For your DD tow and mpg tunes I would beef up your canbus tuning from 0 psi to 10-15psi by a few %. And raise your Pump Low Boost Scale PSI to above your normal DD driving PSI. for your fun tune then just throw as much fuel as you want at it. I would not suggest Minimum Pump Tap Fuel Precantage: 50% haha, that means that if you go WOT you will get no less than %50 of your total wiretap..... coal train, flooded turbo, smokey pig haha. I would suggest a fun tune setting this at %25 if you really wanna get going. We need to remember that Canbus fueling makes up %75 of the fuel your truck will get, wiretap only adds %25 on top. So the more canbus fuel you run the more power you will have. I would start on lvl3 only, and tune your canbus to be as aggressive as possible where you only have haze at WOT then start looking at wiretap. The more tuning time you have the happier you will be.

I still have to kick out of cruise state if Quadzilla load spikes. that's the only way I can know for sure that there is a change happening, no other sensor input will tell me that the driver / cc is requesting more power. If boost stays low it will jump back into cruise state after 3 seconds at the new cruise timing, if load is increased then cruise timing will drop, if load decreases cruise timing will increase. If boost comes up above the limit then cruise timing is not re-enabled and your base timing cruise is active along with performance fuel load timing, IE more timing at high load and less at low load.

Just navigate to the windows 10 thread using your phone and download it directly. it installs without fuss. Well it will with Andriod, no idea about Iphone.

I have a secondary relay setup, the morimoto controller has a trigger to drop the shield, so I just use that same trigger on a relay.

I have? Lolol. I better talk to @Quadzilla Power about that lolol. @crf450ish. Your direct line to report bugs is to call quadzilla. I simply don't remember,too much life on my plate.

@TFaoro Mike is saying that when cruise state is enabled fuel timing should work inverted to perfomance mode. I think it makes sense haha. in an effort to keep mpg while keeping the truck moving you would want to decrease timing as load increased and increase timing when load dropped. This change effectively gives us a full steady state timing table and a performance timing table based on 3 + axis We have to remember that cruise state normal timing are 2 different lines of the code they cannot intersect. attached is a spreadsheet that shows what mike wants. Change a2-c2 to fit the situtation and that's what is needed. Book1.xlsx

which is why Cruise State timing is useful. The quad will automatically turn fuel load timing to 0 / disabled, then switch to using cruise state timing only, which is generally higher timing than your "performance" base curve. So if all the qualifiers for cruise state are met we ignore everything but cruise state. Best of both worlds. The Quad literally sets EVERYTHING to 0, except cruise timing, when cruise state is sensed. They live in different realms and don't talk to each other lol If you like I can build you a tune that inverts fuel load timing when in cruise state only ?

I need to spend some time learning @AH64ID Timing calc stuff, just haven't had time to yet. That should help figure out where timing should be at a given rpm and match that to a good MPG for that rev. really all comes down to trying to get the combustion in the right spot. as revs increase the amount of timing needed to keep timing in that sweet spot increases. There's a lot about this kind of stuff I don't know haha, I wish I could sit down and chat with someone smarter than me, but doubtful that will happen.

@JDHudsn tunes so far Stock injectors.

I would check your thermostat for your downhill issue. I would also try beefing up your low canbus fueling some. I am guessing you can run a starting point of 105 ish without smoke. But that will take trial and error. I would also suggest raising the wiretap psi up and beefing up canbus fueling. That should give you more controlled power down low. Good MPG towing though.

ECM timing is so dynamic I don't see how you could reproduce the same number 2x hahaha.

sure haha. there's also a new apk that allows for a muhc longer data logging. Its in the windows 10 thread.

Quad v2 only at this point still. It has the psi limit for cruise timing kick out.

I prefer to change my pads rather disc. cheapo pads wear out without wearing the discs too much.

Here's the card......it's obvious now. At the store in the card isle as a man, I shouldn't have to watch for this kinda crap.

I have been feeling the need to do a write up on this for sometime now. The more and more I learn about how tuners work for our trucks the more I feel like there is a serious amount of misinformation out there that REALLY needs to be corrected. What you guys pay your hard earned money for should return results beyond what some guy's distance friend thinks is awesome. This is not meant to explain the deep in's and outs, rather a rough idea of how things work and why some setups are good and others are not. First let me explain how our trucks work on a basic level when you push the pedal down. IE: How does the VP44 know when and how to fuel? Info taken from vp44 CAN message - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums thanks to Jdonoghue and his work from ~ a decade ago. When I say there is nothing new in terms of magic inside the ecm or vp44 I mean it. Next lets look at what type of tuners we have for our Vp44 trucks and how they work on a basic level. 2. Canbus Tuners: Edge EZ Quadzilla ZXT, ts mvp, anything that plugs in under the hood to the data port. 3. Wiretap only tuners: TST comp might be more not sure haha. 4.Wiretap and canbus tuners: Edge Comp / juice, Quadzilla Adrenaline, redline. Lets remember that canbus fueling actually makes up the vast majority of fueling / power in our trucks. Wiretap adds a good amount of power, but not nearly as much as canbus fuel. On a stock truck canbus fuel alone will get you to 300 hp wiretap will only bring that up to ~420 hp according to ricer math on the hottest tuners. so ~75% of the power is actually coming from Canbus alone and wiretap adds another ~%25 on top. 300 hp is approx %75 of 420 hp. So now that we have a basic understanding of tuners lets look at stacks and what they do. Throughout this I am going to reference the Throttle pedal as if it was a volumn knob on a stereo. 0 = silent / engine off 10 being WOT or stereo as loud as it will go. Let me start off by saying that there are good reasons to stack in some situtations. In my opinion you should never stack programmers that do the same thing. It is commonly accepted that you shouldn't stack 2 boxes that do timing. The thought with Stacking Timing boxes is it over advances timing causing issues. Generally unsafe I suppose. Not sure if I believe that fully, but regardless your truck will run like garbage, and you feel that in the butt dyno. We all agree it's not a good idea. Oh the Butt dyno....we'll get to that in a second. But people seem to ignore the same thought process for canbus fueling. You ask ANY tuner and they would tell you that too much fuel is a bad thing for performance. We all know that "flooding" the turbo results in poor performance. So why is that the same mindset does not apply to the fueling side of tuning in the same way as the timing? Reason that no one seems to care is that there is inheriently no high risk of damage and the Butt Dyno says it works. Kinda like the facebook, if someone says it's ok on facebook then we are all good. So the masses tend to ignore overfueling as being bad. So the Butt Dyno, So back on topic. Stacking, So if we think about our 0 - 4095 fueling message as being directly related to 0-10 on our volume knob on the stereo ( obviously in the real world it isn't linear, but in this example it is). So loudness on canbus is 0-10. So here we have a data log from a normal DD drive on OEM fueling on the "canin" column, you can see that in stock form once you are moving you normally see a canbus message of above 1000. So you range for fueling if you want to get going is no longer 0 - 3600, rather ~1000-3600 which makes sense it takes power to move the truck down the road. So in Stock form our volume knob has a range of 2.5-8. 2.5 = 1000 and 8 being 3600 or stock tuning max Whats important to note is that our volume knob is stuck going no lower than 2.5 when you step on the pedal to catch the mustang in front of you. So our knobs 0 position is now 2.5 as the truck needs to move down the road. So what happens when we add one tuner say smarty on top of OEM? Say the tuner addes %20 fuel down low, great we all love power.... Our low limit is already 2.5, but we added ~%20 up top also. cool now our knob goes up to 10. Awesome news! So what happens if we stack 2 boxes that do Canbus Fueling? So down low the Smarty tuning in the ECM is asking for %20 over stock when you hit the skinny pedal. then the canbus piggy back box is intercepting that fueling command of (OEM + %20) and adding it's own fuel on top. So we end up with (OEM + %20) + %20 as the lowest amount of fuel we get when we want to pass someone. The stack doesn't give us more top end due to the limited size of the fueling message IE: 10 on our stereo. So our range of fueling is now %50 min and still %100 max, so our stereo only works between 5 and 10. So our volume knob's 0 is now 5. Not exactly what I would call a good setup. so here's a visual idea of what I mean. You can see how the stacked setup just maxes out fueling sooner, Kepe in mind our trucks fueling is in no way linear, but you can see how stacking just causes overfueling. Report this image Most stock guys won't really see this as an issue, but what you need to see is that your throttle movement is limited to %50 of what it used to be. Same max power, it's just all moved between 0 and %50 throttle position durning DD driving. Anything over %50 is reaching that max fueling message size of 4095. so if you go to %60 you truck is just as fast as it was at %50 throttle and so forth. It is easy to see that you are just maxing out fueling sooner and sooner with less and less throttle travel IE less and less control over your truck. Stacking tuners is like only being able to control your volume on your stereo between 5 and 10. You'd be pissed if your radio never went below 5, why do you want your truck to drive the same way? Solution Time More control is a good thing. It's a brave new world, tune your truck correctly and use the throttle if you want power. So when should you stack? It's easy....Only stack things that do different things. You only need 1 box that does each thing, canbus fueling ( from the ecm or piggy back) + timing + wiretap( if you want it). The only thing you gain by stacking boxes that do the same things is a lighter wallet. You get no more power at the cost of less control over your truck. View full Cummins article

Do you have a live data tool to read things like Apps %? Have you checked the TV cable?

Does throttle position seem to change anything about how / where it shifts?