Me78569

I would look for boost leaks. It is farily easy to overfuel the turbo down low. As for the EB, you should just be able to ground out the EB sense wire and it will override the other tuning. Are you using TPS input? EB mode requires under %5 tps input if you are not using tps then you might have a float TPS value. If that is the case we can just set the variable for TPS to read 0

That's already in the code posmanage tab line 87 if (turbo_rpm < minimum_turbo_rpm) { if (BoostPressure < 10) {vane_position = 700;} else if (BoostPressure < 20){vane_position = 600 ;} else { vane_position = 500;} //so that the turbo will default to %50 if no rpm sense. } } So if psi is under 10 then you get 700, which is 9cm under 20 you get 600 which is 12ish and over 20 psi you get 500 which is 14cm Minimum turbo variable is 1000. I know that section is working since my shaft speed stopped working a bit ago haha. Ended up being a bad wire, but I wrote that section in to help ensure the turbo works without shaft speed.

Sorry I am not understanding fully what you are asking? IWhen you pull the pot it will go to the value you have on the Pot. Boost will self right once it sees "idle state" if you are not watching TPS then you will need to calibrate the sensor, but it isn't really used for most of the vane positiing. Do you need to calibrate the actuator? If so tab veinpossend line 38. Replace the byte in line 37 0x01 to the 0x02 save compile upload and turn on power to the system. Once the command sends the turbo will walk out and back in then shutoff. Change the byte back, reupload and continue on your way.

What does it say when it won't upload? That plug will work, it forwards the analog pins 4 & 5 to that plug.

Yea code changes between the versions my bad.

ill take a picture when I leave work for you.

I dunno where it is supposed to be mounted as mine is just hanging behind the fender plastic. you will see it right around where the engine connects to the trans midway up the fender. It's a large junciton something like 12 or 16 wires.

Those lights are just remind you that you have brakes..... at least that is what I tell myself. after you replace the rear sensor and the lights and code stay I would check your wiring in the junciton above the drivers front tire. That was the cause of my p0500. The SG might onlu show verified codes. the code might be sitting in the non verified state still.

Glad you are up and running.

It should be yes. I thought when you said it looks ok it was showing something? give me a bit to go back through the code and look through what might be causing the issue. If you already verified the sda and sca wires ar ein the righ tplace then somehting else must be up. Have you tried swapping them for good measure? Alright, I can't think of anything else that would cause your issues. you can update the code to write values / info to the serial output of the unit. Keepimt tab, line 128 delete the // that I highlighted. next Add this code to the L_serial tab at line 30 else{ Serial.println(" it is alive, but no shaft speed detected"); } Then upload the new code to the arduino using the arrow in the upper left I circled in red. Once it uploads you can click the mag glass in the upper right corner. that will bring up a serial window, in the drop down select 115200 and report back if the board is spitting out anything. It hsould print its alive but no shaft speed if the truck is off, or report back something else if the truck is running.

Yep 60 is the min it will read. Glad it works I was scratching my head. I dunno what a fast cooler is I will use DR google.

so the quad gauge is now at least coming off bottom? I know my trans temp rarely goes above 130*f when I am unloaded, but I have a transcooler up front. Do you?

Agreed checking for ac noise from the alternator needs to be the first thing done. Cleaning and checking grounds is like changing oil on these trucks.

Try swapping the canbus wires from high to low.

I know some of their pump have new page and some have used. Depends on how much you spent.

I think the canbus used pin 9 on that shield. My code is setup for pin 10. I think the first or second tab The code has something like "McP (10);". Change that to 9. Recompile and upload. Page 1 line 23 change mcp can1(10) to mcp can1(9)

Adjust the screen contrast using the small blue pot on the i2c board. Sounds like the contrast might be all the way up. Please post the exact canbus board you got. Some boards use port 9 some use port 10. You might have to change the channel in the code.

Make sure the sda and sca wires for the screen are in the right position. How do you have the screen wired? Have you tried reducing the brightness/contrast of the screen using the adjuster on the i2c board?( Guessing that might be it) How are you trying to make the turbo change? Does it cycle when you apply power to the turbo? Any noises from the turbo when power is applied?

Welcome. Nice looking truck

One is Bluetooth one is wifi. The Bluetooth works with Android devices the wifi works with Apple.

More is always better haha.

Get the iquad too and don't use it beyond tuning I suppose. Digital gauges are nice though, they tell you a lot about the truck and what it is seeing from sensors etc. But you don't have e to use the screen once you are done tuning. It has shown me a bad map and oil pressure sender even though there were no codes. Showed me when I had a bad ground, noticed volts climbing beyond normal ranges. No zxt custom tuning, no way to input the custom data

Yes The new tuning is built on the framework that the quadzilla provides.

Did you run the heater? A good bit of fluid can get stuck in the heater I wouldn't worry about the ratio, I am never exact with it and it is fine.