Me78569

I love my group 31 batteries haha. I have had to go through this 3 times in the last 2 months haha. They just keep cranking.

I just wanted to make sure you were cranking with the lines cracked. If you are only getting one line pushing fuel then something else is up. Hotwire the vp44?

I suppose you could just remove the cluster and apply 5v to the posts of the led in question?

You can solder a new led on just fine. Pull the cluster out. Clip the legs and use a needle nose to pull the legs out of the board, after keeping the tip of the soldiering iron on the leg. It's a super Easy, the PO of my truck decided that they wanted to brake the bulbs rather than fix the issues.

you must be cranking while the injection lines are cracked. Sometimes it will take 2 or 3 minutes worth of cranking.

I would ensure you primed the whole system correctly before going any deeper. Get fuel to the vp44 first, hotwire the airdog relay using a simple jumper between pins 30 and 87 of the relay. Once you have fuel to the vp44 then crack the injection lines 1, 3 , 5 and start cranking. Getting any fuel? dont be afraid to crank for a minute. It's not great for the starter, but it can be a PITA to get the system primed.

How much did the bed liner cost to do? I might have to do that as it would fix %80 of my body issues haha. Wanna do it again?

Love the truck, just gotta antichrome the mirrors So Chrome and shine ride eternal? Sucks about the fuel leak though. No crack in the tip of the line?

Agree'd It is the best time of the year when the garden is producing. Just harvested my Garlic yesterday. Rainbarrel laws be damned We almost got it passed here to have them legal, but at the last minute something caused it to fail.....Gee I wonder.

Just a small comment about losing weight and the diet aspect. Jen has struggled with stomach issues for awhile, one step to getting it under control was diet changes. We made the choice to go to the meat and veggie only diet. I loved it, I could honestly eat as much as I wanted and I was still losing a ton of weight. I was at #205 6'3" I think after a month I was down to #190 with 0 changes to lifestyle. It is amazing how much better the body does without the typical american food diet. Anyways good work W&F that's a huge victory.

What would you like your sig to say? I will update it manually for the meantime in the interest in getting you up and running.

as for the sig I am not sure you aren't seeing it like you should. and neither am i haha. I will look deeper.

Yep we can see your post now.

gonna agree with Tfaoro. That or brake switch. if the truck sees brake switch engage it will unlock.

if (ThrottlePosition < 2) { // Idle Section if(turbo_rpm <= idle_rpm) { //idle rpm is 12000 vane_position = idle_position; idle_walkdown_mode = false; } else { if (turbo_rpm <= idle_walkdown_rpm) { idle_walkdown_mode = true; } else { idle_walkdown_mode = false; } //walk down rpm is 20000 if (idle_walkdown_mode) { vane_position = constrain((final_vane_position - 10),idle_position-two_cm, 800); } else {vane_position = min_position;} // if turbo rpm is above 20000 then it will set vanes to full open ( min_position is full open for some reason haha) } Here you can see what I am doing when there is no throttle input. In short. -no throttle and turbo is below 12000 rpm it will go to about 12cm -no throttle and turbo is above 12000 but below 20000 then it will walk from whatever the last position was to 12cm slowly to bring turbo speed down slowly -no throttle and above 20000 rpm it will walk the turbo position towards full open. The vane positions will move no faster than 1/4 cm per movement so it will "walk" to the commanded position unless turbo rpm is above 100000 in which case it will jump. That is how I am handling the full throttle to off throttle. If turbo RPMS are high enough to not be considered idle/walkdown idle (20000) it will always increase turbo size until turbo speed drops below 20000, then it will start to walk down to 12cm I wouldn't call what the turbo does a "bark" more of a whoosh or huff.

This is from Vince, emailed into the mopar admin email address.

It "hiccups" rather than barks now. I still need to work out a way to delay the turbo from closing fast on let off. Shouldn't be hard once I look into since I know what my throttle position is. I might just raise my walkdown rpm or the rpm that the turbo tried to walk the vane position down so idle rpm is around 12k I'll try to get a video soon here.

Thanks for the quick turbo math lesson. Good for my needs haha. Wild, yep it is pretty nifty. Makes for coding possibilities that are pretty cool. Most importantly now that everything is paid for it gives me something to tinker with without spending money. I still feel I can make the code work better for all around driving. the rpm maps that I have right now are a little notchy, keep in mind I am pretty picky when it comes to stuff so most likely wouldn't even notice. My wife loves that I can tinker without spending money haha.

I am using the shaft speed sensor on the he351ve to know what the shaft speeds are. I am printing that info on the lcd screen in cab connected to the arduino. I can push it past 140k without much hassle. However the specs on the compressor wheel are not widely know as it is a holset turbo. Issue I am trying to resolve is keeping the turbo from running outside of its efficiency ranges like you are talking about above, if it is just spinning like crazy it won't be pulling in air like it was engineered to. Since it is a variable exhaust housing I can tune it to open the vanes just enough to keep it from overspinning. I just have to tune and test and tune and test . testing and tuning is the only way to fine tune the setup for my truck.

everything I have read says the compressor side of the he351 is a super hx40. Holset says the super hx40 is rated to 130,000 rpm at 40psi and moves up to 850 cfm http://www.myholsetturbo.com/40appnotes.html I am seeing much better mpgs above 55 mph with the he351 compared to the hx35. This is because I am able to manually control the vane position with the use of a Potentionmeter. I am able to do 65 mph with 0psi drive pressure without smoke and with egts sitting around 800*f. If you need the power, you just have to increase throttle above %25 ( or turn the pot off) and the vanes will snap back down to the rpm based position. For my goals of no more than 400-450hp it is a pretty good fit.

Some more fine tuning in place on my code. I am now "snapping" the turbo closed for a moment then opening back up when you go from idle state to throttle state. Smoke is much better, egts are down, and DD performance is much better. I am really starting to like this turbo for DD duties. The torque curve is vastly flatter compared to the hx35. Last thing on my short list is to address my turbo overspeed issue. I am able to push the turbo RPMS to 140-150k without much trouble. I have been opening up the turbo curve more and more and the issue is getting smaller and smaller, but I still need to find the sweet spot for WOT.

The pressures created by the detonation of the diesel far outdo what the the exhaust brake can do. nothing to really worry about with the EB. With my he351ve I only see a max of 40-45ish psi on the exhaust side when I am using the brake.

yea bad stuff happens when you mix orange and green. Turns into this nasty "stuff", that is about the only was to describe it.

O got ya. I miss read. I dunno if the 98. I can chase wires later and take a look since my dash is broken apart anyways

I can do the same with my quad....... and the custom xml that I had to hack out of it Nice to see some features like this making their way into our big dumb trucks.