Me78569
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Everything posted by Me78569
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there might be something wrong with the edge's map sensor circuit. -
Crank timing up top. At 3000 rpm 30* isnt dangerous. Stock will top 26*.
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Not something you are going to get help with here. Learn how to tune to the result you want.
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a fitler wrench, yes it is messy, and the filter is on the passenger side front right next to the block in front of the tire. Nearly the same spot as a 24v or 12v
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It would be good to know what you have done so far. What trans? what maintence? really just general information.
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I've had cheap sensors cause issues like this. high boost causing it to stick.
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I have been eating cheese and ice cream like no ones business.... you know to support the farmers but really keep it up. Even a small change by a subset of the population makes a big difference.
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https://www.amazon.com/GlobalSat-BU-353-S4-USB-Receiver-Black/dp/B008200LHW Plug that bad boy in and it will work. No need for internet to get a location, so you could preload maps or buy maps and then just use your GPS location
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where are you getting your map sensors? Is it a genuine cummins sensor?
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The CDC has yearly illness reports. It is interesting to look at november-now here in the states for "flu like illness reported" this year vs the last few years, then look at "flu tests positive" this year vs last couple for the same time range. What you see is a huge spike is reported cases of the flu in mid / late november compared to prior years, however if you then look as the number of confirmed flu tests the numbers are the same as the prior years. To me this says that covid has been in the population since late november. Right around christmas I was feeling off. I had a lot of congestion that lasted ~2 weeks. I didn't feel very bad, but I was hacking up crap. It was pretty bad for me compared to a normal cold. Then ~a week later my parents got them and it knocked them out for a few weeks. They said they felt next to death. As I have been thinking about this more I remember my wife's school having a TON of people out being sick. It was a huge % of the kids out right before christmas break. China was seeing this thing from early november on, the day after they gave the WHO the way to test for it we started to see reports of it. It is impossible that it wasn't spreading out of China way before the Jan 21 first date we have. all that to say I think we do already have herd immunity.
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Some really good reports of hydroxychloroquine working well from Doctors. Very good news.
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People can differ in opinion, respect of said opinion and the person with that opinion is key. I expect nothing less from the members here.
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Eat healthy, get sleep, take walks, keep busy, cut down on drinking, stop smoking, and enjoy life. Don't take risks you shouldn't and if you are at high risk then take more caution against it. Big numbers are meaningless without perspective. Media has just been jumping from one click bait story to the next, everything was a crisis. Not to say Corona isn't real, just keep it in perspective. What I am most scared about is the unemployement rate and Whats going to happen with the 2020 election. We have pitched away freedoms expecting the government to give them back. Life is dangerous, liberty is worth it. stay safe and smart.
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There isn't much to show with the better setups I have seen. I only used mine for the exhaust brake.
Does it do it on lvl 0 ? have you scanned for codes? whats your fuel pressure at idle and Wot?
No power gain and I doubt you would see a egt drop of more than 25*f. 4" sounds good though. I'd do a muffler and then stainless if you can afford it.
I can hear my wife now when I am installing it " you're gonna make me pee in a bottle just to see how far you can drive without stopping" me: "you know it"
maintence records are key. Does it have any to show that it was cared for? I would be less worried about the miles than I would the upkeep.
Man I want this bad.
Thanks to chknkatsu over on CumminsForum for this one. Took me a long to figure out how i wanted to do this without interfering with the everyday use of the truck, that meant not eliminating the spare or taking up bed space. I also wanted two compressors for quick recovery and redundancy in the case of one of the compressors going bad. I also wanted to make sure all the wiring terminations and relays were easily accessible. I sized the wires accordingly to reduce voltage drop. making a relay/fuse board. It was difficult trying to find a good spot for the relays and fuse that was accessible so i decided to mount it on the fuse box cover with rubber bushings. All the studs are welded onto the board from the backside. I used the DEF tank mount as my mount for the compressor because there isnt a flat surface on the DEF tank mount i welded studs onto the mount to mount a plate, all the terminations coming from the engine bay are done in a junction box mounted to the DEF tank mount cover so i can easily access it by removing two bolts and dropping the cover. because of the way the tank is going to be mounted i had to plug up and add my own ports and drain. tank is 2 gallons and 19" long, just enough to fit between the body mount and interior cubby on the passenger side. I welded extended feet to accept 8.375 U-bolts to bolt it to the frame rail which would mount the tank sideways as opposed to putting the feet on the bottom. I was having issues with some of the plugs leaking so i decided to just weld them shut to avoid future problems. I may relocate the air chuck to a more convenient location in the future. I decided to run both compressors off one switch for now, that may change later on. There is a panel on the left side of the steering wheel directly above the parking brake release that makes for a perfect auxiliary switch panel. My truck comes with aux switches but i decided to save them for future use. Here is the final wiring, I added wing-nuts with rubber bushings so i can easily remove the fuse/relay panel. the compressors fill the tank up to 150psi in a little over a minute. These are not the highest output compressors you can get from Viair, but they were the industrial line that were more durable with 100% duty cycles. I value reliability over output, another reason why i ran two compressors instead of one. Hope you guys enjoyed
Thanks to chknkatsu over on CumminsForum for this one. Took me a long to figure out how i wanted to do this without interfering with the everyday use of the truck, that meant not eliminating the spare or taking up bed space. I also wanted two compressors for quick recovery and redundancy in the case of one of the compressors going bad. I also wanted to make sure all the wiring terminations and relays were easily accessible. I sized the wires accordingly to reduce voltage drop. making a relay/fuse board. It was difficult trying to find a good spot for the relays and fuse that was accessible so i decided to mount it on the fuse box cover with rubber bushings. All the studs are welded onto the board from the backside. I used the DEF tank mount as my mount for the compressor because there isnt a flat surface on the DEF tank mount i welded studs onto the mount to mount a plate, all the terminations coming from the engine bay are done in a junction box mounted to the DEF tank mount cover so i can easily access it by removing two bolts and dropping the cover. because of the way the tank is going to be mounted i had to plug up and add my own ports and drain. tank is 2 gallons and 19" long, just enough to fit between the body mount and interior cubby on the passenger side. I welded extended feet to accept 8.375 U-bolts to bolt it to the frame rail which would mount the tank sideways as opposed to putting the feet on the bottom. I was having issues with some of the plugs leaking so i decided to just weld them shut to avoid future problems. I may relocate the air chuck to a more convenient location in the future. I decided to run both compressors off one switch for now, that may change later on. There is a panel on the left side of the steering wheel directly above the parking brake release that makes for a perfect auxiliary switch panel. My truck comes with aux switches but i decided to save them for future use. Here is the final wiring, I added wing-nuts with rubber bushings so i can easily remove the fuse/relay panel. the compressors fill the tank up to 150psi in a little over a minute. These are not the highest output compressors you can get from Viair, but they were the industrial line that were more durable with 100% duty cycles. I value reliability over output, another reason why i ran two compressors instead of one. Hope you guys enjoyed View full Cummins article
Huge Thanks to Gsbrockman on CumminsForum for this one. My '14 RAM 3500 Crew Cab Tradesman 4x4 is at 33,445 miles and 621 drive hours as of today. The Aisin AS69RC requires a drain & fill at 30,000 miles. At 60,000 miles, the pan is dropped, the sump filter is replaced, and the fluid is replaced. At 90,000 miles, another drain & fill is performed. At 120,000 miles, the pan is dropped, the sump filter is replaced, and the fluid is replaced.....you get the idea on the future service intervals. What you'll need : Large drainpan. If you change your own oil on your CTD, your engine oil drain pan will work great. 19 mm six point socket & 3/8" ratchet. Small funnel for adding the new transmission fluid. 8 quarts of MOPAR ASRC transmission fluid (quart part number 05189966AB). Shop towels or clean rags. From a previous post : My parts guy printed me out a list of capacities for the 2013 RAM 3500 trucks. Interestingly, the Aisin overhaul fill amount is 13.74 quarts. The overhaul fill on the 68RFE is 16.4--17.5 quarts. The service fill for the Aisin is 7.2 quarts (I bought 8 quarts). The service fill on the 68RFE was not listed, but I believe it was a little over 10.5 quarts for my 2007.5 RAM 3500. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/20...ml#post9849554 I had been on about a 62 mile round trip running some errands today, so my transmission fluid was already at operating temperature. I prefer to change it at that temperature, as I'd expect best draining (same thing with my engine oil----I guess I'm a glutton for punishment). I did verify the transmission fluid level prior to performing the drain & fill. It was about 3/4 of the way into the cross hatched area for "HOT" fluid (167*F). Find a level area to perform the drain & fill. Slide your drainpan and yourself under the truck. Clean the transmission pan area around the drain plug. Using the 19 mm six point socket and 3/8" ratchet, loosen the drain plug. While removing the drain plug, keep in mind that the drain plug has a metal gasket. It's really easy for the metal gasket to separate from the drain plug.....and subsequently fall into a drain pan full of fluid. Don't ask me how I know..... Plan on giving the transmission about 30 minutes to drain minimum. My observations were that very few drops came out after the 30 minute mark, but that's just a yardstick you can go by for planning purposes. Clean off the transmission pan and re-install the drain plug with gasket. I do not know the intended torque of the drain plug bolt, but I'd guess no more than 10 to 15 ft lbs. Use common sense and you should be fine. Using the small funnel, begin replacing the fluid. I let each bottle drain for a couple of minutes. This fluid seems relatively "thin" IMO. In between the first three bottles or so, I transferred the old fluid into gallon jugs. It appeared that the ~ 7 quart estimate was close to dead*nuts on. I added seven quarts and took it for a test drive long enough to get the fluid to 163*F to 167*F (normal unloaded operating temperature). With the engine running, on level ground, in PARK, I found 7 quarts put the oil level to within 1/8 of an inch of the uppermost portion of the "HOT" mark. I plan on leaving it as is.....I'll re-check it tomorrow after I deliver a new 2014 GatorMade 40 ft gooseneck trailer to Arthur, IL. Poor picture of fluid level on dipstick prior to changing. File pic of drain plug on pan. Drain plug removed. Drain plug and gasket. More random pics.... MOPAR ASRC Transmission Fluid. Paper plate with a few drops of new & old fluid. Pan cleaned & drain plug reinstalled. New MOPAR ASRC Fluid going down the chute!!!!
Huge Thanks to Gsbrockman on CumminsForum for this one. My '14 RAM 3500 Crew Cab Tradesman 4x4 is at 33,445 miles and 621 drive hours as of today. The Aisin AS69RC requires a drain & fill at 30,000 miles. At 60,000 miles, the pan is dropped, the sump filter is replaced, and the fluid is replaced. At 90,000 miles, another drain & fill is performed. At 120,000 miles, the pan is dropped, the sump filter is replaced, and the fluid is replaced.....you get the idea on the future service intervals. What you'll need : Large drainpan. If you change your own oil on your CTD, your engine oil drain pan will work great. 19 mm six point socket & 3/8" ratchet. Small funnel for adding the new transmission fluid. 8 quarts of MOPAR ASRC transmission fluid (quart part number 05189966AB). Shop towels or clean rags. From a previous post : My parts guy printed me out a list of capacities for the 2013 RAM 3500 trucks. Interestingly, the Aisin overhaul fill amount is 13.74 quarts. The overhaul fill on the 68RFE is 16.4--17.5 quarts. The service fill for the Aisin is 7.2 quarts (I bought 8 quarts). The service fill on the 68RFE was not listed, but I believe it was a little over 10.5 quarts for my 2007.5 RAM 3500. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/20...ml#post9849554 I had been on about a 62 mile round trip running some errands today, so my transmission fluid was already at operating temperature. I prefer to change it at that temperature, as I'd expect best draining (same thing with my engine oil----I guess I'm a glutton for punishment). I did verify the transmission fluid level prior to performing the drain & fill. It was about 3/4 of the way into the cross hatched area for "HOT" fluid (167*F). Find a level area to perform the drain & fill. Slide your drainpan and yourself under the truck. Clean the transmission pan area around the drain plug. Using the 19 mm six point socket and 3/8" ratchet, loosen the drain plug. While removing the drain plug, keep in mind that the drain plug has a metal gasket. It's really easy for the metal gasket to separate from the drain plug.....and subsequently fall into a drain pan full of fluid. Don't ask me how I know..... Plan on giving the transmission about 30 minutes to drain minimum. My observations were that very few drops came out after the 30 minute mark, but that's just a yardstick you can go by for planning purposes. Clean off the transmission pan and re-install the drain plug with gasket. I do not know the intended torque of the drain plug bolt, but I'd guess no more than 10 to 15 ft lbs. Use common sense and you should be fine. Using the small funnel, begin replacing the fluid. I let each bottle drain for a couple of minutes. This fluid seems relatively "thin" IMO. In between the first three bottles or so, I transferred the old fluid into gallon jugs. It appeared that the ~ 7 quart estimate was close to dead*nuts on. I added seven quarts and took it for a test drive long enough to get the fluid to 163*F to 167*F (normal unloaded operating temperature). With the engine running, on level ground, in PARK, I found 7 quarts put the oil level to within 1/8 of an inch of the uppermost portion of the "HOT" mark. I plan on leaving it as is.....I'll re-check it tomorrow after I deliver a new 2014 GatorMade 40 ft gooseneck trailer to Arthur, IL. Poor picture of fluid level on dipstick prior to changing. File pic of drain plug on pan. Drain plug removed. Drain plug and gasket. More random pics.... MOPAR ASRC Transmission Fluid. Paper plate with a few drops of new & old fluid. Pan cleaned & drain plug reinstalled. New MOPAR ASRC Fluid going down the chute!!!! View full Cummins article
Huge Thanks to Loki223 over on CumminsForum for this one. You will need The wiring harness from Dudes Diesel Performance $95 but worth it to not hack up your trucks harness. https://dudesdieselperformance.com/i-30533376-dudes-diesel-performance-tow-mirror-light-harness-13-18-ram-1500-2500-3500.html Alright, so i know many of you have seen the tow mirror running lights done before, and this solution is specific to the 13-18 trucks. On the old way of doing this, you must run some wires inside the cab and through the doors which is a royal PITA to get into the doors. And this must be done in both doors, plus there is cutting and splicing factory wires, which some people don't care about, others do. Being that i just spent a boat load of money for the truck, i didn't want to be splicing wires where i can avoid it. That is where this wire harness comes in. It is completely plug and play, with no cutting or splicing required. It is easily removed, and easily blends into the factory harness. My harness is a pre-production set, when these are readily available, i will post a link on where to get them. (I have no affiliation with the manufacturer or seller, so i will update this with a link when i get notified that they are up for sale.) Now, lets get into the this Here is the harness as supplied. The black connectors that are separate in the picture will need to be placed onto the factory harness, while the factory connectors will be placed on the opposite side of this harness to make things fully plug and play. This process takes about an entire second, and will be shown in this thread Next Remove the Door Panel by following the directions in this article. Now we are looking at this guy, the door module, which is located towards the front of the door, the handle trim piece is actually blocking view of this in the previous photo. The 2 connectors we need are the Blue and Black one. Do this one at a time, so as not to mix anything up Let's start with the black connector. Insert a pick into one side of it, and use a screw driver on the other side in the access hole to slide it out. When inspecting the connector, you will notice that there is a retainer piece that must be relieved to allow the inner connector to slide out of the outer connector. I found the best way to do this was with the pick, as shown here Now, on the opposite side use a small screw driver (or other small skinny object) to press out the inner connector Once removed, slide on the provided black connector to this connection. Then place the removed connector onto the other side of the harness. Once the connectors are fully assembled, plug the harness connector into the door module, and the door harness into the new harness. Repeat on the blue connection, and now all the hard work is done. Check function to verify nothing is messed up while you have the door open. Now that everything is connected properly, secure the wiring with some zip ties, and trim the zip ties, because we are tidy folk here. Once that is done, everything looks pretty again, and we want our trucks to look pretty (even on the inside where nobody else will see them) Now take a step back, and look at it. You can hardly tell anything aftermarket is going on there. Now question yourself as to why you didn't pre-order the Kicker speaker upgrade kit to do at the same time. Because look at that speaker, it looks so much better suddenly. And if you wanted to upgrade the speakers, this gives you the perfect excuse (it's only 4 more screws per door) Now reassemble the door panel, in the reserve order that you took it apart. Then, you are done! No running wires, and messing with the door harness connector under the hinge that will make you cuss and grab a beer while you think about your decisions. Nice and easily done, with basic tools. Enjoy your work! (and probably tell me to go wash my truck, which will happen later today) Here is a video showing the function. The lights are at full brightness during running light mode (which i like over partial brightness of some of the other ways of doing this) The lights are being powered through the interior lights circuit, not the running lights. So they will turn on when you open the door, and not when you remote start the truck. They also fade off with the rest of the interior lights, and stay on for a couple seconds after exiting the vehicle. For vehicles without interior LED lights in the door panel, this mod will cost you a little more, but it will be worth it. You must purchase Alpha OBD and turn on the feature in your door module. it will only take a minute or two, and is really easy. Plus there is a lot more you can do with Alpha OBD, so you should just go ahead and get it anyways. If you need help with Alpha @Jimmy07 knows a lot about the program, and can help you get done what you need done. If you are on the fence about getting the program, check out this thread to see what a lot of people have been doing with it https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2...justments.html As always, enjoy, and let me know if you would like to know more. I will update with purchase location once i have that information. This is one of my favorite things to do on these trucks, and now it is super easy to do. Cheers everyone!
