hodag56

Like I said I wish I would have rebuilt my original box,, instead of getting a rebuilt one from, NAPA They had a sale on them when I got the first one with a life time warranty. This box had unequal pressure right to left, So I was pretty well screwed I just figured I would get another box and it would be okay, but it was worse than the first one. This box had return to .center problems. I'm to darn old to be putting in steering .boxes.

According to my 2002 Doge full service manual there are 24 balls in 12 silver and 12 black. I have heard of other numbers also. Someone said that the number of balls determines the turning ratio. Is that true?

I don't care what the box was for. If you look at his website he does a lot more than replace seals and o rings. He has a ten step process according to his web site, There was a lot more the play in that box, it had memory steer (steering wheel wouldn't return to center after turn ) steering was not smooth . Mike I think you are smart to rebuild you original box. I wish I would have done that, instead of getting a box from NAPA. It seems to me Tyler said he has went thru 3 NAPA boxes.

Two months ago I put in a new track bar, drag link tie rod end replaced all the ball joints. When I took It to an alignment shop they couldn't align it because of all the play in the box. I just got tired of messing with NAPA.

I' ll let you know but so far so good . I let my son drive it today and he said it drove like a different truck.

Just got my Blue-Top steering box installed, my truck drives like it drove when it was new. I would recommend that rebuilt box to anyone who needs a 2nd gen steering box. I guess you pay for what you get.

The problem that happens once you start down the aftermarket parts house lifetime warranty road you are kinda locked in to keep going back to them, unless you want to bite the bullet and eat the coast of a custom builder i.e. Borggeson, Redhead, Bluetop box. After awhile you just get tired of same old steering problems, two or thee months after you put one of there cheap boxes in. I'm getting to old to be doing this, I'm 78 and I feel it holding p that box getting bolts started and hoses hooked up.

After replacing my original box because of leaks and a bad bearing on the pitman shaft with a napa box ,I wish I would have rebuilt my original box .Even though those rebuilt boxes are warranteed doesn't mean they are not defective. I have gone though 3 of those and yet to find one that lasts. I just ordered a Blue top box from Ryan in Stanton N.D .I'll let you know how it turns out.

Looks like I need to get rid of my scan2 gauge and buy me another toy. Thanks for the video, Mike.

Thanks Mike I just found out they were hooked on to another vehicle , Could that have caused a polarity issue?

I have a question on a charging issue. My son borrowed my truck to pull his 28 ft. trailer to go elk hunting, he got it stuck 12 inches of snow up on the Mogollon rim and had to use my winch to get out. my winch is powered by my passenger side battery and is protected by 50 amp. breaker. With the engine running he engaged the winch and the voltage gauge in the dash dropped to 8 volts My scan2 gauge was showing between 13.2 and 14 volts while this as going on. The abs light and CEL came on and stayed on even after the winch was disconnected . The winch worked normal so I don't believe there is a problem with it. After driving 10 miles every thing but the abs light cleared. Yesterday after a couple of miles all the warning lights were cleared. He is still up there so I haven't had a chance to check for codes. Does this sound like a bad ground issue? I've used this winch before and never had a issue .

Me too, after my glowshit gauges.

Great video. Reminds me of what a depraved sinner I am ,And how lost we are without Jesus. Thanks for sharing it.

I had a similar problem 2yrs. ago, it turned out to be the power to the lift pump from the ecm was intermitantly shutting off as soon as the engine warmed .If you have a away to test that while driving you would be able to see if that's what it is .Eventually my power to the lift pump quit , and I had to have my ecm rebuilt. If you think that's what it is you might find another ecm and see if that works .I think I had a bunch of codes when mine went out. Good luck those intermitant problems are the hardest to diagnose. Make sure you find a reputable rebuilder because there are a lot of bad ones out there.

How do I edit my signature?

Will do.

I'm sure I don't have any fuel leaks, but I'll do that air test again, I did it 6 months ago, cause I had a leak on top of tank and used that air test to find it, It was the gasket on the tank modual and I fixed it. My truck fires the first time I turn the key. Fuel pressure comes up to 19 # immediately It is parked in a garage with a epoxy coated floor if there were leaks I would have seen them.I'll keep playing with this MPG problem.Thanks for you guys and you suggestion.

Actually, a fully stock truck can reach over 1,400*F. That was my first shocker towing here in Idaho with my brand new DiPricol gauges back in 2004. No other mods. I have all push-loc or JIC fittings on my fuel lines, all way to VP-44 thru the stock filter canister. Basically it's the ..same as yours Mike only my gauge line is a 3 ft. piece of1/4 in .s.s. aircraft hydralic line.

No codes .I haven't checked for boost leaks, My exhaust temps normally are 800- 1000 deg ., unless I 'm pulling hard on steep hills and than I back off right away, what I meant was that I never let them go any higher.I Just got the parts to build a boost leak teste" let you know if I find any. 1400*f? really? wow my truck struggled to top 900* yea I would start with boost leaks and go from there. Actually, a fully stock truck can reach over 1,400*F. That was my first shocker towing here in Idaho with my brand new DiPricol gauges back in 2004. No other mods. Just did a boost test .found 2 small leaks 1 on outlet of turbo and 1 on intake horn boot.very small leaks,just need to tighten the clamps just a bit to stopthem.I don' really think those little leaks would cause 2 mpg difference ,but I guess I'll find out .Thanks for all the suggestion. This truck runs better now than it did when it was new, but I've only got 90k on it, just doesn't get the mileage it used to.

No codes .I haven't checked for boost leaks, My exhaust temps normally are 800- 1000 deg ., unless I 'm pulling hard on steep hills and than I back off right away, what I meant was that I never let them go any higher.I Just got the parts to build a boost leak teste" let you know if I find any.

I replaced my vp-44 a couple years ago, and had my ecm rebuilt .Since then my mileage has dropped over 2 M.P.G. ,I had never had my ecm reflashed until last month. I was hopping my mileage would improve but it didn't. I don't have any issues with starting or the way it runs. I was thinking about getting a Edge Comp box.I already have a B.D. pump cover with the tap wire, but never did get a performance box. Here's my mileage # city now 12.5 M.P.G. highway 16.8 M.P.G.. Previously I got 14.5 M.P.G. city and over 20 on the highway .I've got 20# of boost at wide open throttle and no or very little black smoke . Exhaust temps never get above 1200 deg. I was considering getting a Edge comp to improve my mileage and even though diesel prices are way down. Mike seems to swear by his. Do you think a Edge comp would improve my milage?

That's the 1st time I got the complete story of how moparman1973 started. Thank you for being so diligent in all the article and the way you run the website. Art

good article. Easy for a retired or retarded plumber like me to make. I need to check for boost leaks, as I've never done it. I don't have any issues that would indicate a boost leak, but it doesn't hurt to be sure.

Good detailed instructions, I wish I'd had it when I re placed my dash cover. I also wish I'd replaced my heater core and evaporator as they are 14 years old and are living on borrowed time.

Good article. I wish I would have had this when I redid my steering 6 mo. ago