guinnessbrewer

Got the hubs this afternoon.... They are not USA made....China, big surprise! Its is not much of a consolation, but I am not even sure a US mfg exists for these. Anyway, I got a quote for ball joints with alignment at a shop here locally of $1050. I would assume the hubs would simply be the cost of the parts, so long as you were doing it along with ball joints. Chris

Well.... The right side is now pulled apart...It was even worse than the driver side, this is not for the faint of heart! I've got new hub bearings coming from APW next day air via fedex. They are supposed to be made in the USA, but well see tomorrow. Wish me luck. Chris

Right ON!!! Just PM'ed the guy, we'll see. I found some on APW for about 190 each plus 25 for overnight shipping. Here is a link to the a good write up that I am using:DIY Ball Joint Replacement - DodgeForum.com and this one for earlier trucks: 2nd Gen 4wd Ball Joint Replacement Session - Dodge Cummins Diesel ... So far I have had no other differences except wasting a hub bearing due to my " Heat and Beat" technique! Hey, one other thing the BEST deal I could find on ball joints was with Summit Racing. They beat Amazon's price on the ball joints and WILL take care of any LifetimeWarranty issues ( unlike amazon) Thanks, Chris

Patience......you said it Mike!!!!This thing is officially kicking my butt! I thought I had the 1 11/16" socket... nope. Ran around town looking for an hour one no joy!!! Luckily I was able to borrow one. Started tearing into it at around 2:30 everything was going along just fine until it was time to start pulling the hub bearing. Followed the manual procedure of backing out the 4 attaching bolts and tap on them evenly and the hub should pop out...not!Got a BFH and big brass drift and wailed on it for close to 2 hours no joy. Then I tried the "Easy way" of using the power steering to press it out with a brass drift between the hub bolt and the axle. NO JOY! So finally I got a friend of mine to help me and he recommended applying heat to the spindle. This finally worked! ( with alot more beating of course) This truck looked pretty clean underneath, it was a Denver truck, so they do cover the roads with Mag-Chloride. So far I only have the drivers side apart. Learning curve is fun, but I think the other side will be easier now that I have a clue. :pray:Good News!!! I will have new hub bearings too ( was not planning on replacing them) Bad News!!! Because of the heat application I feel that I better swap the bearings out. :spend:Holy Moly!!! I just priced bearings!! Anyone have a good price.... Under $200ea for new hubs?I have a 2000 4wd 2500 with a dana 60 and 4wheel abs

I finally am going to do the ball joints on my 2000. I have found a couple of write ups on later model trucks on CF and the like. Does anyone know any tricks or tips for my model year. I talked to a friend who did them on a 94 CTD 2500 4x4 and he said he had to engage the 4x4 before pulling the passenger side axle to prevent the linkage from falling apart???? Any way I am going to start with it tomorrow morning. ThanksChris

Might want to check out advanced auto http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/home___ 15% off and free shipping over $75 Chris

Mike, I assume the best way to remove that race is with an "actual" slide hammer, yes? Chris

Thanks Mike.... I guess I must of got a little off square with my slide hammer technique.:banghead:

Hey all, Just pulled apart the rear hubs to service the bearings and noticed the inner bearing cone cage was deformed (probably due to my technique for removing the wheels seals, removing the outer cone and then putting the nut back on a few threads and then firmly pulling the hub toward me until the rear cone and seal pop out of the hub) . The cage is not binding any of the rollers, however, I am not really happy with putting it back in service. I am pretty sure if I do this i have to replace the race as well as the cone...Correct? The race appears to be in good shape, but I wonder about putting a new cone in w/o changing it. Also does anyone have a better way of removing those big ol seals... while this normally works great, I don't want to goof this up again. Thanks for the feedback!

I just installed KYB monomax shocks on my 2000 4x4 and so far I am very impressed. They were about 60 each @ summit.

Here they are! The pics posted to my profile ---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 PM ---------- Finally, posted to my profile Thanks for your help Mike! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/album.php?albumid=51 QUOTE=Mopar1973Man;11622]Yeah... x2

Sorry I am slow with pictures....I will get them coming later this week. Chris

Well guys, With a lot of input from you all I got things sorted out a bit on my 2000. First off I installed new KYB mono max shocks on all 4 corners; much better ride! Then came a Lukes link kit on my track bar as well as a PSC steering stabilizer...HUGE difference! Installed my AD 150 with the big line kit between the stock fuel bowl and vp44 and a Draw straw 1 from vulcan . Got rid of my drop in k&n and installed a BHAF amsoil 4510 with a pre-filter. Changed the transmission oil and installed a Fuller eaton filter kit with amsoil synthetic syncromesh 5 w 30 (for less than half the cost of mopar fluid too! ) Also got a great deal on a frantz filter set up thanks to Mopar1973 going to bat for us and Deborah at wefilterit.com And finally I got my Edge juice with attitude monitor installed too (WOW). So far I am showing 22 PSI fuel at idle and 20psi pouring the coals to it! Early on when I began posting here I got a rash of crap about K&N filters...I was an ignorant sheep, yes I admit it now. Thankfully now a I have been educated as to what that extra flow actually costs. YIKE$$! So needless to say, all of my vehicles have been stripped of the K&N filter and now are using Amsoil nanofiber filters. If anyone would like a stock lift pump (engine mounted) that has VERY LITTLE use (2 months) please PM me and I will be happy to send it to you for $10 plus actual shipping. It worked fine when it was removed and is practically brand new. I guess I better start putting a dollar in the console every day so I can save up for a clutch job....it is only a matter of time! Thanks, Chris

Thanks mopar... Thats kinda what I was thinking I guess I will get out the drill and tap and get to work! Chris

I have an autometer EGT in my 2000 and am going to add a edge juice with attitude which also requires a thermocouple. Instead of installing a separate T-couple is it advisable just to connect my edge to the existing thermocouple? I seem to remember that the leads are specific length and impedance so running 2 devices off the same thermocouple might not be a great idea... Anyone out there done this? Thanks, Chris

I bought this and had pretty good results...you can also get it at wally world autozone etc... http://www.amazon.com/3M-Headlight-Lens-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1269637004&sr=8-1 Something I have been doing to preserve my acrylic/lexan lenses on my vehicles is wax both the headlights and taillights whenever I wash the car. Helps make them look new and clean and helps keep the sun from oxidizing them too. I have been doing this on my 2005 caravan since new and when I see other 2005's mine definitely looks better.

Who do you use and how much for the service? Thanks, Chris

found this on amazon http://www.amazon.com/94-01-Crystal-Headlights-Corner-Lights/dp/B002P9XY2U/ref=pd_sbs_auto_2 http://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Housing-Headlight-Corner-Indicator/dp/B001E9CABI/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3

What brand did you purchase? I just installed a PSC unit...Very well made, and a more reasonable price.

Yes you can tell by the size. check this link.... http://lukeslink.com/images/ll_documents/Lukes%20Link%20Install%20Instruct.pdf I just did a lukes link on my truck with poly bushings. Amazing!

I'll see what I can do, I bet she would be interested in coming on board. I ended up getting my ball joints and shocks from Summit...they beat amazon's price on the parts plus they honor the lifetime warranty, amazon does not service the warranty if needed. I did get a ball joint press kit on amazon though it is: Astro Pneumatic 7897 Ball Joint Service Tool and Master Adapter Set http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00061SGZO/ref=oss_product Hoping to get this done soon, it doesn't look like too bad of a job ( I hope)

Well the process of improving/repairing my 2000 is well on its way. I installed my Frantz filter, Psc steering stabilizer and a luke's link kit on my end link. Wow... what a huge difference in steering feel! I would like to thank Mike again for setting up the deal for the franz filter and also your bracket setup. I basically copied your bracket arrangement except I made mine a litte longer so it goes to the bottom of the battery tray. Now for the ball joints, Kyb monomax shocks on all four corners, install my airdog150 and then finally my edge juice/ w attitude.... Should keep me busy...

You might be able to inspect it through the vp 44 cover hole with a bore scope....[Q UOTE=1longbed;9851]yup just four bolts and out it comes, I did mind and didn't need to pull the rad or shroud but I do have small hands lol, does any one have a picture of the fixed and non fixed covers to compare.

Several years ago I had an ATS torque converter in a turbo 400 with a 500 big block. This was before ATS was really known and was in Wheatridge Colorado on 58th and Wadsworth. Clint really knows his stuff but it cost $$. If you have the means, I would go with ATS.

Mike, So its links you want, is it? Hear ya go! http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=k7397+lower+ball+joint+&x=14&y=18 http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K7394-Coil-Action-Kit/dp/B000C59Z0O/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_b http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K7397-Lower-Ball-Joint/dp/B000C5443W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1266234514&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/KYB-565019-MonoMax-Heavy-Monotube/dp/B000CODG3C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1266234711&sr=1-2 http://www.amazon.com/KYB-565018-MonoMax-Heavy-Monotube/dp/B000COBWQU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1266234668&sr=1-13