AH64ID

I don't recall on oring on my CR block, but may have missed that part. As far as the exhaust valves the EGTs have a way of keeping them clean, even if there is an oil leak. Why not pull the crank if everything else is coming out?

Yeah it's a good cam but it doesn't say best, just that it operated from idle-4200. From what I was told the 178/208 is better idle to 2600 so it just depends on where you want to run. If you plan to use the 4000 then the 188/220 sounds perfect. You may give up a little economy and off idle performance over a smaller cam, but should still be better than stock by a lot! Good deals are also great ways to go.

So there may or may not be a really on a 6.7, the more I look the more it looks like they integrated it into the TIPM. I also noticed my dads 06 doesn't have a A/C fuse and 06 is the first year of the TIPM. The evap sensor should be in the evaporator, thou I am not sure where as I haven't ever looked for one.

Couple of quick ideas. Did you check the A/C relay? Is the evap temp sensor plugged in? Can you see if the cluch plug is getting voltage? Otherwise not a lot an be done without more tools. I cannot find the static pressure just that less than 50 is too low. My 05 sits at 57 and cools pretty darn good.

Carli supposedly uses harder materiel which "cannot wear" so they claim lifetime service.

Having some loose and some tight means each cylinder was breathing different, now they should all be the same so I am sure you can feel it.

I only have a few years on them, but all is good so far. The Carlis where on a large back order at the time, so dynatrac was the best option. My local shop also uses dynatrac almost exclusively.

I left mine as it helps protect the wiring from too much heat, but it's probably not needed with the manifold blankets.

It shouldnt' feel different, but you are twice the reccommended adjustment interval. Even thou Cummins says 100K miles I do mine more often and even then it made small feel differences. What did you set the to? Many people set the exhaust to 0.018" to get a little more exhaust out on HPCRs due to the short duration on the OEM cam. It can increase drive pressure a little, but from how I gather you use your truck it wouldnit be an issue on DP but maybe a little more spool/performance for free. Did you adjust them all or just if they where out of spec? How close are you to an oil change? My silicone always goes up after a valve lash since it is very hard to keep the dust off the valve train.

Did I mention they are cheap... OEM less than $100.

The OEM torque specs are 263 ft/lbs, so they are on there!

I was just on the Hamilton site and see they dropped the 188/210 and added a 182/214. Out of curiosity why the 188/220? Do you not tow much? The 178/208 is a great cam for slow speed spool and towing, but I rarely go above 2500. Bearing kits are cheap, far cheaper than I ever imagined. For the cost of one I wouldnt even think twice. They may be in spec but have plenty of miles on them.

I would think door seal or mud flaps. I had to move my mudflaps 1" outboard for my 19.5s and now I have a low speed whisle.

I am running a 1 piece and so far I like it. I have arond 10K miles on it. I has 1550 ujoints which took over 1000 miles to break-in and that first 1000 miles had some serious low speed vibs. I still think there is a little more low rpm resonance than the 2 piece but it is a big arse alum shaft. Nice thing is no carrier bearing and only 2 u-joints to replace when he time comes., and 1550s are cheaper than the OEM 1480's.

Are you young to reuse the bearings? Or just curious at the wear? Will you mic out the OEM camlobes ? Or is a replacement on the way? (Sorry if I missed it). The 24V OEM cam is much better than the OEM 5.9 HPCR cam but Incannot speak highly enough of the improve to a decent cam makes.

Once thing is for sure on 3rd gens the large brakes and EB do wonders. I haven't even started thinking about pad replacement yet and I am at 108K mikes and quite often have a GVW of 11,000-12,000. GCW will run up to 20K but the trailer should stop most of its own weight, if not all.

Check your intercooler and boots. It could be oil from the turbo as well.

You will be quite happy with the whole setup! I did hubs, ball joints, sway bar end links, and a steering stabilizer all at the same time. I think inlay have done shocks at the same time as well. I have to ask about the slotted and vented rotors, I Always understood them to lower braking performance on anything but race cars with intentially oversized rotos. The reason being that you have decreased surface area, which is the main factor behind braking power. The other reason is the friction coefficient is changed which can have a large impact on antilock brakes. It's very rare to see anything but an OEM reccommendation for brakes on these trucks.

No, anything that is reading obdii data is limited to 37psia. Something like an edge attitude or smarty touch should work as they read the data like a DRBIII and not OBDII. Your cheapest option is a boost gauge.

37 is the max reading OBDII will tell you and correlates to approx 22 psi (forgot about that earlier ). What are you using to read it? Idle pressure seems correct, assuming you live around 0-500' elevation. Look into the Ultra Gauge. I have had both and the UG is better and cheaper, IMHO.

The CR tappets do have more surface area but it's not utilized by the cam lobes. Even the 1.4" tappets don't have 100% contact from what I recall. I'll see if I can find a pic of my OE tappets and the wear pattern. I would get the 103# springs from Hamilton, as well as his pushrods.

The CR tappets are larger, but you gain nothing from it. The reason CR builds use 24V tappets is because they are lighter. I would stick with 24V, especially if yours are in good shape. Why do you want larger tappets? What are you planning on running for valve springs?

Why use CR tappets? Most of the CR world is using 24V tappets when changing them. Did you mean upgraded valve springs or CR valve springs? Do the VP marine pistons have a different bowl? The CR's are the same for certain models and when the HP gets high enough they are double heat treated with a minor, really minor, added lip. Great results in the CR world using the QSB480 pistons.

I wonder why the users guide you found wasn't updated then? Hopefully you get an answer soon.

I would use the MADS site for users guides and such. Have you tried starting the truck with it installed?