AH64ID

The overhead is probably 20% optimistic. It's horribly erroneous and I would hand calc to check your mileage. With good driving a Smarty should get you 10-15% better economy, but it's always hard to say.

I have done it both ways on my 05. First time I did it I pulled the return line from the pump and plugged the reservoir and then kept the reservoir full as I ran the truck and ran the wheel stop to stop. The second time I pulled the lines off the cooler and let it gravity drain and turned the wheels stop to stop, then refilled and started. I got about the same amount of fluid out both ways, but I do think the method of pulling the return line is better and the first time I did it I wanted all the OEM fluid out. This last time was just a drain and fill, so it was easier to not mess with the return line.

Smarty doesn't modify the boost signal, at least nothing I have ever seen or heard. I read ~0.5psi of boost at idle/off tuned or not, there is no change. One of the reasons that the Smarty only fueled to 44psi for years was the 100% stock readings off the MAP sensor. Now they modify the limiter, so it fully fuels but reads correctly. There isn't a need or reason to modify the signal, one of the benefits of a Smarty over POS Edge products. If you are reading -2.3 psi of boost that means that either your MAP or IAT sensor is reading off. It should be ±1 psi of zero at idle or engine off, as both sensors should be reading near identical. I cannot think of how the Smarty would even do that adjustment, as the SG2 should be taking MAP (absolute) minus IAT (absolute) for boost. I would think its a coincidence, maybe something with ECM programming and rebooting... but I don't think it has anything to do with Smarty programming. There is a way in the ECM to adjust the sensor voltage vs value, but it would make it less accurate with the OEM senders and there is no reason for it especially at idle.

Wow Mopar wants a LOT!! I bought one from the local six states for $13ish.

What are you wanting? Too many people buy a turbo because it sounds cool, but don't take their driving style/habits into consideration. Let us know what you want the truck to do.

I run Amsoil ATF and change it at 50K mile intervals. I just did a change this fall and was hearing some noise pre change that is gone now. I never felt a difference, just heard it.

When was the last time you changed the ATF in your power steering pump?

I would have to go back and look thru old posts, but the specs on the Bladerunner are horrible at best. It doesn't have the compressor map to be a useful turbo, but for some reason the compressor map has been removed from the website???? I'd look for a different turbo.

I agree with removing the belt and starting it. That will tell you if its CP3 noise or not... Or a broken oil pump :-)

Years ago, probably 5-7, there was a stretch of trail that a cat must have been living on. Everyone we hicked thru it when there was any moisture in the air it would smell like the cat was right there. I will also find pockets of timber that smell of elk piss, very strong and very present... But it could be old. Have an approx grid to the area?

Any recent rain, fog, or low temps prior to the smell? The moisture can bring out some pungent animal smells, which I rather like in the fall.

The HE351VE isn't worth 600, you can find good ones around 400 fairly easily.. if not lower. The controller and turbo should cost about the same as an exhaust brake, but the turbo has more than one purpose.

20 psi is normal, but more air would help out EGT's. I would install a boost elbow and make it so you peak at 28-30.

If the truck is stock it is probably fine, but I would check the intercooler for dirty fins. What kind of boost are you seeing? A boost elbow is probably the easiest way to cool EGTs. Adding fuel, injectors, will increase EGTS.

The dash is fairly easy to modify, the piece it mounts to can be removed in a matter of minutes and then it's modified and reinstalled. It's a harder install than an a-pillar, but a much better location.

I love my 3 gauge dash pod, best gauge arrangement I have used (and I have used a few). I currently run a Smarty Touch in the single A-Pillar by Mopar, EGT/Boost/Fuel in a triple dash pad, oil pressure over the OEM POS oil pressure in a single pod, and a drive pressure in a single pod by my trailer brake controller.

Pressure drop should be less than 1-2 psi.

Should be fine around town, I wouldn't tow with it.

Why run SW3 but stock timing? It's still more fuel than stock, so I wouldn't do that without a pyro.

With an auto trans you will have VERY high rpm shifting with a PoD that low. In addition PoD only effect the throttle input, so the base tune is the same. At a PoD75 there is still 100% of the power available below 2300ish rpms, dyno verified, so you don't gain anything. I would reflash, SW7 is too much to run and tow... both without gauges, with a stock turbo, and with a stock auto trans. I can't say you have been given very good advice if that is what you are running without gauges on a stock trans...

I have read that the FF cover is only good to 30psi, by most accounts... But I have never tested it. I gather the o-ring gives out and it starts to leak. While he may have had good luck with a lot of pressure to the CP3 others haven't... So it comes down to what is recommended vs what works for others. When I first started on the CR scene 7 years ago CP3's were getting a lot of pressure, as Dork's10 year old memory eludes to, now they don't. Heck you can't even find the Walbro pump for sale anymore from GDP or other diesel retailers. I think it was a good design, but failures were occurring and they lost out to AD and FASS.. thou I am not always convinced that was a improvement.

I don't recall exactly what happens, and I don't think a little too much will hurt (IIRC Dork is running low 20s).. they can get noisy, but otherwise I don't recall.

The CP3 is rated for -5 to +15 psi, but most consider 2-12 the optimal range with 8-12 being ideal. I would set it at 12 psi at idle.

Yes they "T" into the same feed line, but I am not sure where. According to a post in this thread they will start with a bad electrical pump. I have a Fluidampr so a mechanical isn't a possibility for me.