AH64ID

So you were driving steady at 60, without towing, and saw 181-200?

In researching the MB 235.1 it meets MAN 341ML, as does several other oil choices stateside. One of them is Amsoil MTG 75w-90, but I never see anyone running it. The specs line up closer than the syncromesh, but ???

Interesting, I didn't have that problem. I didn't like the sound and the soot from the SJR going into the cat so it's taking a nap in the attic, but I drone wasn't a real issue. Are you short any exhaust hangers? I know a few years ago when muffler only deletes were popular a lot of drone was caused by lack of exhaust hangers.

You don't see much of an increase when towing due to the speeds at which you drive. You are not even getting your thermostat full open. It is hard to get them full open and does take good power, but it is doable with 8K behind you depending on the speed at which you climb hills. On my old TT I would only see the thermostat full open a handful of times a year in 3-4K miles of towing. With the new heavier TT it's more common to see it go to full open, and it takes a long grade at 70 on a hot day to get it to go more than 1-2° above full open. Interesting that you only drop to 188° at idle, it must be the location of the temp sender? All the 3rd gen's I have seen drop to 181-183 pretty quick when you stop and idle, same 190° thermostat and I don't think there are any differences in the block and cooling flow. My temps are stable, but thru-out the year there is a range of about 35° of operation and it's always normal. But to many people a 188°-197° is a swing, even thou it's at different times. I have seen people chase that very swing on these trucks across the board. When steady driving produces a big swing then there are issues, and that is normally the thermostat, and should be looked at. But all too often people define normal operation as swing, just like oil pressure on diesels has a lot of movement and thanks to people not knowing what they are looking at we got a fake oil psi gauge.

You guys sure do jump on the bad parts band wagon very quickly.The OP did not mention the driving conditions he was in, was it steady cruise, towing, city driving, etc???The temps he posted are not abnormal for many conditions. Remember these thermostats (sounds like he has a 190°) crack at 190° ±3° and are full open at 207°. When idling the temp drops to 180°-183° very quickly.These trucks have a swing, its 100% normal. It always amazes me how much money people throw at their cooling system trying to fix what isn't broke. When you have a severely oversized cooling system and a thermostat with broad operational range it's going to swing, nothing is wrong.

1250° is considered the max continuous for most motors and normal timing settings.

The cat should be first for the heat, then the muffler. I really doubt you will need a resonator at all, the cat on these trucks does a great job killing the drone. I ran cat only for a while and had no drone at all, even when towing.

When I ran one I used the barbed pieces and drilled holes into the column (behind the wheel, with it turned so you don't normally see them). Now that it's removed I don't even notice the holes.

I wasn't very happy with the performance of the factory converter. It was a WFCO 8955 (same one as my old camper that I didn't like either, but th smaller camper didn't tax the batteries as hard). It never would go into boost mode, even with 20% batteries everything on in the camper. I did a little internet reading and found this to be common with the 8955. The most common upgrade is the Progressice Dynamics 4655. It is a 4 mode charger, with "intelli-wizard" and a manual override control to select float, normal, or boost mode. It's a plug and play upgrade for the 8955. It also happens to be the OEM converter in my dads Lance and it works very well. So I ordered one up. I installed it last night, which was quite easy. Even thou both converters are rated at 55 amps the PD is much larger, at least double, and has an additional cooling fan. The PD fit the WFCO box perfectly. My batteries were at 12.44v when I turned all the lights on and powered the converter. It instantly went into boost mode, yay!!!, and was charging at 14.5. This was at 9 last night, and at 1 am it was still in boost. By 9 this morning it dropped to normal charge at 13.6v. So my initial impression is great. The fourth stage is a desilfication stage. Every 21 hours on float it goes to 14.4v for 15 minutes to clean the plates. I am excited to get out camping and see how much longer the batteries last with a good charge, and how much quicker thu recharge on the generator as well. My next stage in 12v upgrades will be to relocate the batteries to the inside of the camper and replace them with sealed gel cell 6v's. This will put the batteries about 18" from the converter and distr panel, and they will stay warmer too. I hope to do this next winter.

Mine is generally on all the time as well when towing. I know the cam is a little different on the 2nd gens, but even with my aftermarket cam with more overlap than stock I get very little soot on the sensors. In fact only by #4 intake runner, and not enough to do more than leave a faint black dust. I did clean my MAP sensor after 80K miles and noticed no difference in operation.

He has a couple of intake mods, but basically a stock truck with a Smarty Jr as far as the motor is concerned.

The air with the twins was cooler, and more of it. That's how the EGTS were lower and the benefit to twins. As a single the 5000 was doing all the work, so it puts hotter air out from a single higher pressure compression. With twins each turbo does part of the work, and thus is in the most efficient zone on the map. That high of drive pressure means the secondary needs a bigger wastegate and/or turbine housing, and is probably why the power was a little lower. In addition the added cooler air stayed ahead of the fuel and probably our ran the dyno load. A sequential twin setup with the same turbo is a waste of time and money. As the article said you so sequential twins to get the total flow of a big turbo and the spool of a small one. With the same size you gain no additional flow on the intake size, and like you said you hurt your exhaust flown. The primary does not light the secondary, the secondary lights on its own since its smaller and takes less exhaust flow. As the secondary starts to move more intake air the exhaust flow increases an gets the primary going. At low boost the secondary does the lions share of the work and at high boost the primary does the lions share. When the primary lights the secondary's main job is to increase the flow of the air the primary is pushing. This is why the intake flows from ambient, thru the primary, then secondary, and then to the motor; but the exhaust goes thru the secondary first and then the primary.

Glad to hear Rich helped you out, he is a great guy. I thought hose clamps would damage push-look hose due to the barb style? I have never used a hose clamp and have seen some pretty high pressure in other applications it just plain works.

The DMF clutch is your 06 is not known for its strength, many fail in the 80K mile range under stock power. There are some that go much longer, like my dads 06 has 105K on the OEM clutch and 85K of those miles are with a Smarty jr on SW1. For a 15K lbtrailer you may pushing it with a stock clutch, and a Jr. I agree with cajflynn that the Jr makes a big difference. I ran one for 5 years and really liked it. I used the economy mode for most of the time as I found the towing setting to be too much fuel above 4K feet with the stock turbo. My dad has only ran the economy mode and until he started grossing over 18K lbs never had to back off for EGTs, but above 18K and with steep grades above 5-6K feet the truck is about maxed out on airflow.

How do they have 2013 wheels already? I don't think any 3500's have arrived at dealerships yet, that are all sitting in storage.

The 2nd gen fuel pump is a much more prone to failure unit than the 3rd gen in-tank setup, but they still don't last forever. If I couldn't put a filter before the fuel boss I wouldn't get it. Personally one of the big reasons I want to change lift pumps is to get a pre-pump f/w sep installed.

PVC? I know its rated for some good psi, but not the heat and pressure cycles...

I haven't decided if I am going to go mechanical or electrical yet. Lots of people get 150K or more out of their OEM lift pump, but I am more in the preventative mind.

Don't worry about a modified CP3.

Unless your at least 800hp a sump is not needed, even then I am not sure it's 100% necessary. I will probably do something around the 100K mile mark, that will be over 3000 hours on the OEM pump.

I wouldn't, that's a pressure designed filter. Filter bases and fittings are cheap.

The original bike has an liquid to air after-cooler, very common in industrial motors. It's an ISM, 11L, so it will not require a large cooling system. I doubt it ever really gets up to temp even.

It will change how the power is made for sure, but if you are burning 34.5 mm3 (30mm3 main at 2200 rpms at 73mph) it doesn't matter what ambient conditions you are in, the mileage will be the same since you are burning "x" fuel at "y" speed. The ambient, timing, load, etc variables determine how much fuel you burn. So in reality you cannot make the mileage at 30mm3 any better, but you can make 30mm3 make more power and thus the ECM will go lower in the fueling table to make the require power, and that is how you save mileage. What's amazing is if you are burning 30mm3 at 1800 rpms or 2200 rpms the mileage is very similar, despite the increased speed and GPH.

I have a few more minutes to expand on my previous post... So looking at stock vs my current setup. I'll use 1800 rpms (60 mph), 2000 rpms (67 mph) and 2200 rpms (73 mph). The mpg data is based off of ISX's calculator. The pilot is included but the post is not, there is a small 2mm3 post for the 1800 and 2000 rpm rows for stock, but not UDC. Stock does not use a post at 2200 rpms. 20mm3 is typically used for slight down hill at cruise speed, 30-45mm3 is normal flat cruise range. As you go faster, or slightly uphill you get closer to 45mm3. Under ideal conditions I can run ±30mm3 at 73-75 mph, and ±27mm3 at 65. That's main pulse, there is an additional amount of fuel for the pilot as well. In stock trim I would run closer to the 37-40mm3 range flat at 73, just goes to show you what timing (mainly) and pressure will do. With better timing and stock pressure I still ran closer to 33-35mm3 at 73 mph cruise. I focused my rail pressure adjustments in the 30-45mm3 area, and then made the 0-30mm3 area a gradual increase to match the rest of the map. This is why the min pressure at those rpms is slightly higher than stock. Very little time is spent in those regions so the added pressure is not a hindrance, and with how little fuel is injected the added pressure does ensure a cleaner burn on a cold motor. I also raised my idle pressure for the same reason. But when you look at the 30mm3 cells you can see I am lower pressure and lower timing than stock, with more fuel efficiency, a quieter motor, and a happier driver :-) The exception to that is the timing at 2200+ rpms. The stock timing DIVES at 2200+ rpms, and that is one of the reasons the stock trucks do so poorly at high speeds, especially a manual with the (.73,.74, or .79 OD) it's not as bad with the .69 on the 48RE. So now you can see why I was able to get ±21 at 73 the other day. This next photos are my entire timing map vs the stock map. It's just for visuals, as rail pressure and duration are also adjusted timing must be modified so it's not a 1 size fits all timing map, it fits my pressure, duration, turbo, motor, and intended use. Lastly, my pressure versus OEM. I also show OEM by itself so you can see how it's not smooth at all! OEM UDC

Just one filter?I would put a f/w sep before the fuel boss, like a Balfwin BF1212 or Fleetguard FS1000.